I am taking picking up my new Sport Tech Roadster next week from the dealer.
A couple of people have asked if I am going to get the additional rust proofing done by the dealer before I collect it.
From what I gather, the modern MX5s should not need this but I am open to guidance.
Back in the mid 80s I owned a Mazda E2000 panel van and I had a shocking time dealing with rust in the rear arches and the underside. I appreciate that things have moved on a great deal for the better since but would appreciate any views on the matter.
If i was buying a new or used mx5 i would have it rustproofed either by the dealer or an after market company, i had mine done at www.chassisclean.co.uk a couple of years ago, out of interest, have a look at their site.
There are loads of threads on here about rust on every mk of mx5., so in my opinion it would be worth youre while even if you only keep your car for a few years, Â it may be a good selling point having it done from new, as mazda rustproofing does not seem to be of a high standard.
I think it all depends on how long you intend to keep it.
Despite the hype it will not fall to bits within two or three years.
If its a car you intend to keep for a long time worth getting done. Â If you trade in every two or three years it might help with a private sale if you trade in the reality is it will be of little interst to a dealer. Â Â
Also worth checking that it doesn’t affect your anti perforation warrenty (for what it’s worth).
I have done the main box sections on mine with dinotrol but make sure that any rust proofing treatment does not block any drainage holes.Â
Don’t know what the dealer’s rustproofing involves but for that price I’d take it to a specialist who does this sort of thing every day and will do it properly - I’m just not sure I’d trust a dealer to do a proper thorough job to be honest - do they offer an increased anti-rust warrenty if you get it done? If not what does it matter to them if they do a half-arsed job…just my thoughts…
I don’t know about anything else but I find it kind of amusing that in this day and age a manufacturer offers additional rust proofing as a option, kind of admits that they know their standard rust proofing is pretty poor…
You don’t say where abouts you are but if you are in Kent or Sussex give Mick at Underbody Protection 07860569429 a call. Mick does a brilliant job, we have used him on customers cars for the last five years and the quality of his work is fantastic. He is possibly not the cheapest but his work is very thorough and neat, he uses both waxoyl and Dinitrol and is approved by Dinitrol.
Salespeople in Car Showrooms make very little on the sale of a car personally in terms of commission, and will always push extras such as Gap Insurance, paintwork protection and things like undersealing.
These all have their place, but just be aware that an element of anything you buy through the dealership will likely go to someone or the company as commission.
Source the market for a specialist if you want the job done - they’ll give you independant advice too.
Personally, I’d wait until the warranty expires, and then, if you decide you’re going to keep the car, get it fully cleaned underneath, undersealed if you want, polished and valeted - it will be like having a new car again for a fraction of the price.
Sounds to me like they are just going to put it up on the ramp and spray it with a garden sprayer. With hourly rates in dealerships often topping £100 an hour, there’s not going to be a lot left for materials.
In the dealer’s defence, I raised the issue - his quotation was merely a response to my enquiry.
I would be interested if there is someone highly recommended in my neck of the woods (Ealing).
I have downsized from a Caterham 7 and a hot hatch & gone for something that gives me the best of both worlds - a Sport Tech. I note that this model does not appear on the dropdown box for listed models.
However, if you wait for the so called
anti-perforation 12 years warranty (hah hah) to expire, the damage is
already done. Far better to get it to a specialist to box-cavity
injection wax etc.
Sooner the better. I’ve seen, unfortunately, 2 Mk3.5’s with the first hints of chassis corrosion & rusted bolts.
If it helps I have just spent a couple of days inside and underneath my car with a dinotrol kit.  It’s a 2007
 Access to the sills by removing the sill cover plates and using the extension wands.  Seemed quite effective lots out of sill drain holes and spray seemed quite effective on “test box”. Need to make sure drain holes are clear afterwards.  Did this twice over a couple of days.
 Accessed front chassis rails from engine bay by removing cloth tape covers on holes on top of rail.  Holes at front and rear of leg enabling  wand coverage.  Seals replaced with duck tape.
 Accessed inner box sections that run length of body. Plenty of holes to allow coverage along length.
 Accessed rear chassis rails by removing plastic plugs and again tape covers on top of box sections in the boot.
 Front inner wing plastic shields seem quite effective but don’t cover the top of strut mounting.  Couldn’t see any corrosion here but no protection either.  Area sprayed.
 Between sill rail and inner chassis box good underbody protection but some bits missed as though a piece of masking tape had been removed during assembly.  Metalwork clean in these places but these localised areas treated.  There were areas just ahead of rear subframe mounting points where there appeared to be no protection.  Areas clean on my car but treated.  Â
Rear wheel arch good protection but again bits missed around shocker mounting points and bits where abs comes through body. Applied additional protection around seam edges.
 Rear subframe sprayed internally and externally.
 Worst corrosion in my opinion on rear chassis rails right above exhaust tailpipes.  Treated.  Little protection around floor in this area treated.
 All nuts bolts on front and rear suspension assemblies well corroded.  Soaked with Wd40 and then lightly coated with hmp grease.  I think I will repeat this spring and autumn.  I have covered some with dinotrol cavity wax to ses how this goes.
Next stage will be to look at accessing inside rear wheel arches from boot or behind drivers seat.
Would have taken photos but it’s a black black job and didn’t want fingerprints all over camera.  Think I will give chassis sections an annual treatment!
 Just happened to be glancing through my MK3 manual.
Came across this on page 8-47 Appearance care
Cavity Protection
“Cavities are treated for protection at the factory but additional protective treatment after the vehicle has been put into use will extend the life of the body. We recommend that you consult an expert repairer , we recommend an Authorised Mazda repairer concerning this additional protection”
Well there it is in black and white Mazda saying our rustproofing is useless.
It doesn’t quite say it’s useless (“Cavities are treated for protection”) but it does say it can be improved (“additional protective treatment after the vehicle has been put into use will extend the life of the body”).
Soon after it also says,
“Undercoating. This special coating is applied to the critical parts of the underside to protect vehicles from damage caused by chemicals or stones. This coating is liable to be damaged with time. Check this coating periodically.”
The warranties book for 36 month paint and 12 year perforation says, “The vehicle must be inspected annually by an authorised Mazda dealer for the warranty to remain in force.”
and, “In order that cover under Mazda warranties is not jeopardised, your vehicle should be adequately maintained in accordance with the requirements published in the Owners Manual.”
So, when we look at all this together, only cars inspected annually by Mazda and re-protected as needed will qualify for these warranties.
But, this is not a surprise, others work that way. Ours had already missed dealer servicing, and how many will still be dealer serviced in say 8 or 10 years time to qualify?
Hence, do what you and I have done and look out for ourselves
I took delivery of my 2.0lt.Sports Tech om 31st May2011 as soon as I arrived home I wax oiled the whole car. Its a very easy job all the rubber bungs in the seals panels give easy access, the drain holes in the bottom of the doors are large enough to get the wax oil into te door panels, I managed to get wax oil everywhere I wanted.
It did take about 2 months for the smell to dissapear, but during the summer it was no problem. A job very well done.
(“Cavities are treated for protection”) but it does say it can be improved (“additional protective treatment after the vehicle has been put into use will extend the life of the body”).
