Rust proofing and what do you guys prefer...

I’m hoping to underseal and rust proof / or help protect the 91 Eunos NA in the next couple of weeks, and wondered what people prefer to use.

On our 96 that had already been undersealed, I used Bilt Hamber cavity wax S50 for inside the sills, chassis rails, inner wings, rear sill area etc, and it was lovely stuff to work with and went quite a long way…

This I’ll use again on the 91, but for the underneath I prefer a black appearance, so was planning to use Dinitrol 4941 Black under body wax.

I’ve already got here some Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 rust converter which I’ll paint on any rusty parts found underneath before using the Dinitrol.

Just wondered what anyone else has used and what you prefered…

Cheers,

 

Mark

I have used the Bilthamber S50 and the Dinitrol cavity was and the results were similar, Bilthamber claim on accelerated corrosion tests, their product is better but how do you know this test reflect the actual conditions in a cars internal cavities. These products are not for use on open areas or areas subject to direct spray or road grit.

With regards to underbody coatings exposed to the elements I have used the Bilthamber UB and it gives a semi see through “dirty” effect. Not a comment on its performance.

The Dinitrol wax has a black non-see through finish that gives a “what people expect finish”. The claimed advantage of the waxes is that they can self-repair themselves if they are scraped.

On the other hand, if cars like the Subaru or Suzuki are rust proofed then they have specific areas that get sprayed with road crap like the wheel arches which unlike the later MX5’s are not protected by liners, Bilthamber advise their UB wax cannot stand up to this direct spraying of road debris and in that case the only product that will do the job is a stone chip.

I have had application problems with Dinitrol stonechip from an air gun as it clogged up and Dinittol were of no assistance in sorting the problem. From that experience I would just get standard stonechip from a motor factor at 70% of the cost of the Dinitrol product.

Interesting you say that as I was just looking at 3M 08861 Underseal, with a shutz gun for the compressor its a whole lot cheaper than Dinitrol…

From what I’ve seen under the car so far it looks pretty good, any spots I do find I’ll treat with Hydrate 80 anyway.

The two cans of S50 I used on the Black 96 one went a long way. and wasn’t used sparingly either…

I’ll have a sleep on it and continue pondering tomorrow…