Been busy trying to preserve my tidy little Mk1 Eunos.
FRONT
Remove wheel arch liners.
Undo nut inside wing - leave loose.
Undo two bolts under the front wing that fix into the sill. They will either come out or snap. If they come out run a tap through the threads. If they snap drill through the bolt and try getting the remaining threads out. If impossible drill through and use a large head long stem rivet to re-fix.
Scrape off rust if found. Ironically I found some surface rust on the drivers side - the nearside was fine.
Bosh some Kurust on the surfaces (it does work believe me) it will form on dirty/rusty areas only - elsewhere it will leave a shiney skin
PS: top tip for control arms, wishbones and suspension components if you want them tidy but not rusty - wire brush off dirt and scale and wipe clean 1) wipe Dinitrol over the surfaces, they will look good or alternatively 2) brush on Kurust and touch up as required. They will gain a shiney black coating that will last - touch up each year. Easy to do on the car and cheap as chips.
Back to the sills…
Allow Kurust to dry for a day and use lead oxide paint.
Spray on Dinitrol 3125 and refit wing, spray more so it runs in any gaps.
Job done.
REAR
I wont bother with how you inject cavity wax as its been done to death however the rear outer sill is always quoted as inaccessible however its not.
See photo below taken from the web (hope is ok) The two ends are sandwiched together and are the difficult areas but I reckon that if you can exclude air and water after treating it will prolong the cars life.
Access is via the large hole below the seat belt tower and spray Kurust over and along the angled section into the thin gap between the angled section and the outer three quarter wing area and leave to dry for a few days. Then heat up Dinitrol 3125 in the airing cupboard for a day or so making sure its like water and spray over and along the angled section again and flood the area. An endoscope proved it had flooded that section.
The problem with the rear sill section on the MK1 is that the intermediate skin is too close to the outer skin. This promotes corrosion and makes it very difficult to get treatment or corrosion protection where it is needed. Basically the two sections fuse together with rust and only separate when one or the other or both corrode away completely.
I would reposition or reshape the repaired intermediate section to be further from the outer skin to allow better ventilation and accessibility for rust treatment.
In Japan there is the option of a plastic outer sill repair. Doubt it would be allowed here but at least the inner sections could be properly finished and treated with that being burned off when the metal outer sill is welded to the car.
Agree completely however the centre section is not butting against the sill - the bits that do are at each end from research I carried out with the rear end wrapped around and the front spot welded therefore if you can get the ends and bottom sealed and exclude moisture and air it will delay the inevitable in my view. You can see the thin gap I sprayed down between the centre angled section and the outer wing via the hole under the seat belt tower
