Looking into refreshing my NC1 with MeisterR CRD. It seems that uprating the arbs would compliment this setup.?
For a road driven NC with meisters would the normal rx8 yellowdots be a good combination? I dont know how different the rx8 ones are compared to the more expensive new ones out there. Just want a balanced chassis, nothing oversteery or stupid!
hiya, can’t help regards the rx8 ones but I have Meister club race fitted to my 2010 NC, along with F/R ILMotorsport ARB’s and new standard droplinks all round. Car is very flat in corners and TBH, as I fitted all these almost at the same time, I don’t really know which have contributed most to the improvements? One at a time may have been a better route, giving me a chance to evaluate each step before moving on. However, really pleased with the overall combination set up 
I also increased track width by 50mm all round using hubcentric spacers so another thing in the mix! 
Barrie
Hi, i have exactly this setup, Meister CRD’s and yellow dot RX8 ARB’s both front and rear.
Again, all was changed at the same time so cannot comment on just one or the other.
I have recently set the Meisters much softer, only 4 from softest setting and find it suits me exactly now, improved comfort over previous setting of 12 from soft, but still very little body roll.
Thats interesting? I was running the club race above midway and have backed them right off now! Ride comfort has improved greatly and don’t really miss anything regards handling on day-to-day driving.
Barrie
Thats very helpful Stewart, did u have a stock suspension before the meisters?.. if so how did the handling / balance compare before and after?
Hi Andrew,
I had it on fully stock suspension initially which i think is very well sorted as stock for the road, ride height is the issue, and a little much roll on hard cornering.
I then fitted Eibach -30 springs but found it too low for speed bumps and also felt the ride was worse.
Fitted the Meister’s with it higher than the lowering springs, played with the damper settings a little, but only from 10 from soft and upwards. Tbh found it fidgety at low speed over normal road surfaces.
Recent change to only 4 from soft and it has just sorted it for me, less fidgety at low speed still well controlled. I’m sure there is lots of fine tuning if you wanted to, should F+R both be the same and minor adjustments of 1 or 2 settings at a time, but i’m happy with it as it is for the moment now.
I did read on another forum that the yellow dot rear is considered too stiff by some and they stick with a standard rear, or RX8 red dot on the back, with a yellow on the front.
This is really helpful. Thanks for your thoughts, I thought about lowering springs for a while but its clear that eventually its best to go straight to meisters if you want a proper solution.
If you are looking for good fast road / track setup and have the budget, Meisters should deliver. arbs are really to balance the handling front to rear. A well selected spring and damper set should control body roll without the need to over bar the car and reduce grip. As others have commented you can tie the car down with the damping adjustment.
I believe the general opinion of most on miata.net is that the front bar should be softer, eg. Red dot front, Yellow dot rear. This avoids a tendency to understeer at the limit if the front is too stiff. The RX-8 is a different car and so the yellow/yellow which works on it may not translate over to the nc.
That is my experience. Mixed bars are a good way to tune how the car behaves as the lateral forces are applied. Matched bars (yellow/yellow) will increase the effective rate and resist roll but also retain the factory understeer balance that Mazda intended for the RX8.
I have run Eibach lowering springs with yellow dots and they do stiffen the car as it loads up, but on anything other than a smooth road the front end becomes unsettled.
The general rule is Meister & std ARB for road use. Meister and thicker ARBs for track use with wider sticky rubber in the dry.
Unless you’ve got the reactions of an F1 driver both of them together will see you in a bad accident on the road in the wet.
Thanks. It does sound like a well fitted meisterR setup is all I really need.
I would agree. If you are fitting Meister R you don’t need to change the bars if you use the car on the road. If you want a more responsive setup there is the Clubrace version above the Zeta CRD that has higher rate springs.
Which meister shocks should I get I’ve got 2005 mk3 NC - the website says that some are for 2006 cars onwards. I’m glad I’ve seen this thread as I was going to get updated sway bars but it doesn’t look like I’ll need them - if you could point me in the right direction I will get some on order - thanks
Meisterr zeta crd for mk3 2005 on seem to be out of stock on meister website. These are what I and most users seem to choose for road use.
This looks like a reasonable deal
Just ordered some got 10% off so £719 - I’ve only had the car 2 weeks and the new parts are starting to pile up - been fitting a pioneer dab radio today, got a bit of rust repairs to do before Christmas and undersealing then all the new bits will be getting bolted on