My concrete driveway slopes down its length but infuriatingly also slightly toward the house, the idea being that the rainwater will go into a drain in the corner. However some of the water finds its way between the drive and the brick wall of the house, then through the foundations and under the floor [ wood suspended floor ] This leads to a damp smell in the two rooms which border the wall. Over the years I have tried all kinds of sealant without finding anything really effective. The problems are 1. Most sealants specify everything must be clean and dry, the bricks concerned are below the damp course so even with a wire brush and a hot air gun this is impossible to achieve. 2. Bitumin products tend to dry out and degrade in the sunlight, drive faces south! 3 The possibility of cutting a drainage channel in the concrete is also ruled out because of drain levels 4. I have tried sealants which claim to seal to damp surfaces, even underwater! They don’t! 5. I have tried flashbanding tape and denso tape, unsuccessful. I have been resealing thisjoint every few years for the past thirty five years, when freshly sealed everything is fine, no leaks damp smells etc. Then gradual degredation takes hold and water again begins to seep under the floor. So, before I try again this year I thought I would ask on this forum, someone may have specialist knowledge, if anyone has any suggestions, knowledge of any magic substances sealers etc. which would lead to a more permanent solution I would be very grateful.
Regards Geoff Peace.
Is it out of the question to dig up the drive and relay it to slope away from the house wall? I realise that this may seam a lot of work but, if you ever want to sell your house this will definitely be a big problem.
3 The possibility of cutting a drainage channel in the concrete is also ruled out because of drain levels
There is always more than one way to skin a cat as they say. If you dug out a channel for a box sectioned drain with an open grate top along the length of the drain, you could then cut a 1m square hole in your concrete drive to make a Soakaway for the water that goes into the drain. It will be a lot of work but will cure your problem once and for all. I provided 5 Soakaways for the bungalow that I built and they work very well. They are not difficult to do, more labour intensive than anything else long as they are constructed correctly.
Hi Geoff,
I think I may have the answer to your magic goo quest. 
In the past I have used products by Sika UK. They are probably the most effective bonding sealants known to mankind. The company can be contacted at this address:-
Sika Limited
Watchmead
Welwyn Garden City
Hertfordshire
AL7 1BQ
Telephone:
+44 (0) 1707 394444
I have used their Sikaflex marine products to seal teak decking to steel and to adjoining teak planking. It has effectively sealed wide gaps and made them water tight against fresh and salt water ingress, the product lasts for about 15 years before needing retreatment. (As you probably have guesed there is a lot of movement in a boat’s teak decking). I know they also make products for industrial use, they are often two part epoxy products, but designed to seal concrete to concrete or steel, wood etc. I understand it is also used to seal large cracks in concrete. You will also find Sika products being used by car winscreen installers. Its the goo that stops your car’s windscreen to car frame from leaking. Give them a ring and let them recommend the most effective product for your project from their range.
The only problem with their range of products is they are very expensive, but they WORK…!! and before you ask, no I don’t work for them. 
Good luck with your project…!
Mike 
I have used aquaseal products to seal industrial concrete applications in the past. Very good products. http://www.aquasealeurope.co.uk/
When all is said and done, you should really be treating the cause not the symptom.
Thankyou for your replies everyone. Just a few things, A soakaway is out of the question because the concrete drive is eight inches thick as one or two of my neighbours have found out, it would need dynamite to remove it. Also because the water table is very high during wet weather. If I dig a hole in the garden, say eighteen inches deep it will gradually fill with water, not drain away. I have by chance found a supplier of Sika products so I will investigate further, also a company by the name of geoflex. The most successful mastic I have tried many years ago went by the name of Rollibondite, but I have never been able to find it again. It has even been suggested to build a carport which would solve the problem but create others, a catch 22 situation. Thankyou once again and if anyone can think of anything else in the meantime I would be most grateful.
Regards Geoff Peace.