New MX5 owner here. I noticed that there’s some rust in the components by the rear wheels. How bad is it? Should I rust proof this immediately or will it be OK until Spring?
I’m using as a daily driver in the North West.
Thanks
I’d do something before Winter. Everyone has their preference on product. My choice would be Lanoguard. It’s clear and doesn’t hide the problems. If you can safely get access under the car and you are fit, the process is an easy DIY task. I’m having mine done in a week or two which will cover all the underside including cavities preceded by pressure wash and wire brushing.
Yep, the second best time to rustproof is now and the best time was in the past, the sooner the better. And salt’s such a massive multiplier, if you can do it/get it done now instead of spring it’ll make a real difference.
The harder part is what to do… Depends on budget, time, whether you like diy’ing stuff. THere’s also a kind of weird paradox that the more permanent a job you do, the better it has to be done. Wansbeck’s suggestion of lanoguard can be a really good one- unintuitively because it’s totally impermanent, so you can never cause any harm with it. It’s dead easy to apply, you can get it on anything without any problems (except brakes of course) and the worst that happens if you spray over old rust is it’s just a bit less effective. On the flipside, it needs redoing (a quick topup after winter is a good idea, and a more thorough topup every year before winter, but both of these are way faster than the first time and use less product). Also your car smells of sheep for a week. A stronger product is good for inside sills, I like XCP Rust Blocker- you can’t really use this on the outside as it’s super sticky and generally orrible, like oily glue- but it’s great in cavities. And again, there’s a limit to how badly wrong you can do it, whereas with some cavity products you can definitely create blockages and barriers and suchlike and actually create little rust havens
Anything more permanent has the downside that it has to be done right, on clean/nearly clean metal. Also you have to be careful where it goes. So frinstance I’m epoxy masticking mine, then over that in impacty places with a stonechip, and dynax everywhere else with lanoguard only on the shocks and other stuff like that which can’t take a heavy coating. It’ll outlast petrol, once I’m done. But **** me is it effort 
You can pay people to do it but… It’s a trust thing. Because who knows what’s actually under underseal? You can guarantee there are people out there with lovely looking cars but it’s covering over problems.
Excellent response! 
Yep get it done, tricky DIY if it’s your daily but if it’s a keeper it’s a no brainer.
Fingers crossed no hidden rot lurking anywhere.
Type “rust” in the search box top right and you’ll get all the wisdom on here.
I’m one year in with my NC and I’m concentrating on checking the areas most prone to serious structural rust and potential MOT failure. Get a trusty MX-5 garage to advise you if you are a newbie with NC’s…
I would concentrate your efforts on looking in the areas shown in the pics below. Most important because they’ll be part of the sill/rear wheel arch areas that can rot through and become MOT failures.
Get those sorted first as most other stuff you show isn’t really going to affect much and can be done later.
Most MX-5’s I’ve seen of that age look like that unless of course they had protection applied.
This picture is under the car just on the sill as it meets the wheel arch. They can rust through and need welding which in turn means it’s an MOT failure as close to a seat belt anchorage. Prior treatment picture on my previous NC, it wasn’t bad but starting to flake.
just to put in my 2 pence worth.
i had mine done about this time 2 years ago.
mine was in about the same condition as your car is now i guess.
mine had never been driven in the winter or rain before i got it.
i took mine for a full underseal and i think they used the epoxy type stuff but i dont really know. i do know its not waxyl.
Yes, definitely get it done before it’s too late. I swear by the Dinitrol product range - RC900 converter, 4941 underseal and then the ML into cavities and hidden areas. The key however is in the preparation. Removing all surface rust scale before applying the Dinitrol is essential. If you do it yourself it’ll probably cost about £500 for the Dintrol but the time consuming bit is the rust removal. Alternatively, you could get a garage to do it, which will cost you about £1k
Good luck, don’t put it off.
Dave
Answer: Yes
Yours doesn’t look TOO bad, but it’s looking rather ‘orange’ in some places so I would not leave it much longer, especially if you plan to drive in wet conditions this winter.
I used these guys: Waxoyl Treatment For Land Rover Defender Discovery Jaguar Mercedes
Waxoyl is a decent enough product, yes there are more advanced ones (Dinitrol, Lanoguard) but it’s cost-effective and if done professionally (power washed and wire brushed, with arch covers removed first) then I would say it’s plenty good enough.
The precise route is optional, but you must do something about it.
Does anyone have experience with rust.co.uk and their outlets? Seems a viable alternative to Lanoguard. Site describes a thorough process including removing plastics, pressure washing, treatment including cavities etc. They quote a 24hr turnaround which I find a little too good perhaps. Most places seem to want several days if not a full week.
I’d be very suspicious of a garage saying they can do a rust proofing treatment in a day.
Try
Frost Auto Restoration Techniques Ltd
Albion Park, Warrington Road,
Glazebury WA3 5PG
Tel:- [01925 648 555](tel:01925 648 555)
Hi. Looking at the website, they seem to sell products and materials rather than provide rust proofing services. Do they work with partner garages?
Hi Tony
Try giving them a ring and see if they can recommend someone if they can’t do it themselves.
I’ve had a look at the Dinitrol website and attach.
JR Classics had mine for 4 days in February.
It took me a while to find a place that actually did a thorough job, with the reviews and photographs that backed it all up.
Top notch place, but they do have a few months waiting list…
I just DIY Lanoguarded my NC 3.5. Absolute doddle - Jack up the car and support - wheels off - brush/wash off any mud and loose rust - cover brake discs with poly bags and spray away. As previously commented - both you and the car will smell like a sheep afterwards but at least you’ll both be water repellant!
Can any South Central members recommend a good undersealing company in the Reading area. I’ve looked, but am blanking at the moment. If there are none locally, I’m prepared to make the hour and a half journey to East Sussex and the MX-5 Restorer to get the job done on our 2018 RF, which although only 5 years old is already starting to show signs of the dreaded rust underneath, hopefully only surface rust at this stage. As an OAP, doing it myself is beyond my capabilities, and I must admit, I’ve heard nothing but praise for the MX-5 Restorer. I know they will want the car for at least 3 days, but 'er indoors will follow me there in our other car for the return home.
Thoughts…
