Is these new ones or the painted ones?
If painted did you put any primer before painting or jus straight forward paints.
Was it high temperature resistant paints or just any??
They are the ones off the car - cleaned and painted.
I used Hammerite smooth red directly on to the metal.
All of the working parts were reconditioned or replaced with a kit from Frentech
Be careful not to hijack the OPs thread please. Thanks.
1 Like
Open the bleed nipple to see if pressure is trapped but be prepared to order a replacement caliper or two. My bet is being placed on a sticky piston.
1 Like
Afternoon all
Here’s the update, took the caliper off, fully cleaned and re greased the sliders, backed the piston off with a G clamp, wheel turning freely, pressed the brake pedal, then released, wheel locked solid, couldn’t bleed the caliper as the nipple is well rusty and was rounding off, car back in garage, looking like a couple of replacement front calipers from MX5 parts while they’ve got a sale on.
1 Like
It appears you have not tried to release the pressure in the line as the bleed nipple is rounded. I suggest that you release the pressure by undoing the hose slightly and see if the calliper releases.
I have just helped a friend with an Elan who had your problem and cured it by fitting new hoses. The hoses were braided and relatively new but the clue to the problem was that the calliper released on opening the bleed screw.
2 Likes
Use some grips on the nipple. If it still won’t let go, you know you can buy those nipples for under a pound? Drill them out, clean the thread with a tap and stick in some new ones. I am enthusiastic about refurbishing parts so I would rebuild the caliper rather than replace but you do you. I once got a bleed nipple out with an “easy out”, those reverse-thread drillbit things, which saved having to tap the thread again. You can pinch the hose with some mole grips to not lose too much fluid.
At least you’ve seen it happen when the brakes weren’t hot. Why did you back the piston with a G-clamp? should try a screwdriver first. And did you leave it for 20 minutes to see if it released like it does on the road? Without the heat involved, it does sound like it could be the failed hose phenomenon if it would slowly, slowly release.
Did you check the travel of the brake pedal?
And the “mechanic” did your bleed nipple up too tight, it seems.
Also, if your wheel was stuck solid after pressing the brakes, how did you not feel that in the steering wheel if the same happened when you were driving?
Hi I’ll try some grips at the weekend, i had to hammer the caliper off again as i couldn’t get a screwdriver in, i packed the piston off with a G clamp so i could get it back on easier, granted after i pressed the pedal i didn’t wait to see if it released after 20 minutes so I’ll try that as well, and yes i checked the brake pedal.
I’m beginning to wonder if he actually opened it in the first place so you might have a point in that did he actually fully bleed the system when he supposedly changed the fluid,
Regarding the wheel i should have been more specific, i pressed the pedal while the wheel was off and couldn’t turn the hub by hand, i put the wheel on and i could turn it but not without a lot of effort, when i backed the car back into the garage the wheel turned but it was binding and groaning, strange thing is i didn’t get anything through the steering wheel when on the road, no pull to one side, no judder or vibration, nothing other than smoke from the brakes.
At this stage - I would be considering a pair of front calipers - or at least a full refurb of the front calipers.
1 Like
First make absolutely sure that you haven’t got a rear (probably NSR) brake getting hot as well. That would indicate a master cylinder fault. (Fluid not returning to the reservoir) The problem would get worse until you might not be able to move the car. Not uncommon with all cars.