Speaker wires, NC

Have a couple of new speakers on the way for a 2014 NC 3.75.
Does any one know which of the wires to the speakers is + and which is - please?

The left speaker has a red wire and a green wire. The right speaker has a yellow wire with a red tracer and a white wire with a black tracer.

Hi, did mine last month 3.75.
Got it from MX5 Parts site which was helpful.
The white/black drivers side is positive.
The red wire on passenger side is the positive.
Drivers side speaker, the black/white wire is the positive, and the red/orange wire is negative, then on the passenger side the orange wire is the positive and the green wire is negative.:+1:


Thanks, that’s a real help, very much appreciated…

How are you getting on with the new speakers? They are the ones I’m waiting for.

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Ahh, now there is a question.
To be honest I am not sure I have noticed any difference at all.
Likewise, I am not too sure whether they may have upgraded the spec in the 3.75 from the 3.5?
Others may know.
Is it because the ICE system is better again, I don’t know.
They are in now so staying!
Soldered all the wiring etc as apposed to using connectors.
I only paid £19.50 delivered from car audio centre last Christmas, so no real issue at all really.
Let me know how you get on and what you think. :+1:

I have the Satnav and its the most awful sound I’ve ever experienced. My 1962 Triumph Hreald 1200 had better sound quality.
It gives us both a headache. So hoping new speakers improve things, but am taking it in to get a Pioneer car play unit SPH-DA250 fitted at some time in the near future.

Mine is the NVA-SD8110 Live Tom Tom one.
I believe yours is different in the 2015?
Funny old world, as that is exactly the one I am going to get, (Apple play and all that)…
A member recommended the SPH-DA230 on another thread and saw it had been upgraded to the 250.
I would again be interested as to fitting costs (if you have no objections) and where?
I was going to tackle it myself, but if the fitting is cost effective then will go with that.
Many thanks once again. :+1: :slightly_smiling_face:

The AVN2 unit was “customised” by Mazda, and the sound quality was compromised as a result. Many of us have flashed the Alpine firmware (the AVN2 is basically a rebadged W920R), which gives you much more control over the sound settings. I’ve certainly noticed a vast improvement since I did this.

I spliced mine but you can get Ford adapters cheaply off eBay.

The SPH-DA250 is £349.95 and fitting is £108 which I thought was excellent, there are a number of other items needed though which does bump the price up.

Most units have a resistive screen, this requires some pressure, but the new Pioneer has a capacitive screen and just works on touch. It is a mechless unit. I think it looks stunning with a 6.8 inch screen and a high spec for the money.

Did you consider the Sony ax3005db? I am tossing up between the Pioneer 250, and the Sony, which is also reviewed well and is a few quid cheaper. Also planning to try to get another 10% off as a club member at Halford (lists at about £320, so down to £290).

I considered that Sony unit or JVC in the other thread, JVC won because it has a clean flat screen, the Sony has a protruding panel at the base of the screen.

Halfords don’t discount technology, so you can’t use the voucher.
Of course there’s nothing stopping you trying.:wink:

I tend to be a bit OCD and have looked into in too much detail.
The Pioneer in general have the best owner and test reviews and are the biggest sellers.
The old DAB230 was a best seller, but the DAB250 which has replaced it has many improved functions, particularly the capacitive touch screen. The Sony AX3005DB has the old fashioned resistive screen and will be replaced soon.
The Pioneer is also mechless.

A vote for the Pioneer for me too.:+1:

Hi All,
I know that there are a couple of threads open that are quite close on the upgrade aspect.
This one seems to fit with my request.
Apologies in advance if I have missed a thread with all the details.
MK 3.75, 2013 with the NVA-SD8110 Live.
I have researched taking the unit out, some remove the centre consul but others don’t.
Looks to me that you do due to the way it’s all slotted and placed together.
Therefore, if anyone can provide me with some good tips/guide on removing and installation that would be very much appreciated.

Speakers fitted. A couple of JVC units from MX5 Parts, thanks for a great service guys. Good speakers at a good price. Thanks also to Scarletpimpernel for the info on positive and negative…

Needless to say several door card clips broke on panel removal, thankfully no one had any in stock as they are quite a price.
However if you need any go to a company called Vehicle Clips, theirs are good quality and you can get a pack of ten for less than others will sell you just one! They fit perfectly.
So if your are going to do this get some clips in advance.

Just waiting to get the head unit changed.

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Hah haha :sweat_smile::sweat_smile::sweat_smile:
I bought a tray of a zillion plastic fasteners off ebay for about a tenner thinking I had a bargain. But all the arch liner rivet style were rubbish. As we’re the trim liner type pop in pop out . Felt scammed.
But, the door card clips have been perfect. Used about six of them recently which has just about paid for the entire selection.

But remember people; buy cheap, buy twice.

But the Mazda ones from a dealer are something like four pounds each. Which is a total rip off, they would only cost a fraction of a penny to make.

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The kit I bought has something like 400 parts in it, which includes 20 door clips. Cost about a tenner in total. So it sounds like I have almost had my money’s worth in the door clips alone, despite the swearing and tantrum I had trying to use some of the other clips. Almost put the whole lot in the bin.

I did end up buying genuine Mazda (from mx5parts) wheel arch liner clips, think they were about 80p each in a ten pack.

Next time I will buy from here:
As suggested above.

Just one more comment, when you take off your door cards, make sure that when you come to refit them the end of the lock cable hasnt pulled out of the plastic clip at the handle, or you’ll end up having to take the panel off again to re-seat it.