It’s not difficult to overlook a small dark sports car when exiting a junction so I usually drive on dipped headlights, when I remember to that is. The obvious solution is DRLs (daylight running lights) which have been fitted to new cars for several years now. There is a Mazda kit available that replaces the front fogs but these are very expensive so I looked for a cheaper solution that would not mar the appearance of the car. Mounting behind the radiator grille was the obvious answer.
I bought some medium priced metal cased DRLs manufactured by HQ Autolighting, which come complete with a control box and wiring cables. They supply an extension cable for one light only, which would have meant mounting also the control box behind the grille so I extended one of the lamp leads using a 2m length of twin flex and soldered joints protected by heatshrink sleeving. This enabled me to mount the control box on the bulkhead in front of the windscreen. I also bench tested the lamps on the bench for several hours using a spare battery.
By far the most difficult part of the job was removing the cover from under the engine to get access to the rear of the grille. This is held in place by nine self tapping screws at the front, two 6mm bolts at the back and under the wing at either side and about eight 8mm plastic expanding rivets. These rivets proved hardest to remove as they are the type that is pushed into the hole and locked with a centre push in pin. These pins fit flush to the rivet head and after several years under the car, are difficult to remove. I broke about half of them and suggest that anyone considering this mod should buy a few spare rivets before starting. There is also a cable clip at either side of the engine cover, which also needs to be unclipped.
With the engine cover removed I tried several options of brackets to carry the lamps but in the end fell back to using sturdy black cable ties. After fitting the lamps I fed the cable up into the engine compartment and refitted the engine cover, minus the plastic rivets which are on order.
The control unit needs two feeds, one from a circuit that is live with the ignition on and one from a sidelamp that switches the DRLs off at night. I picked up the ignition supply using a piggyback fuse holder from the INJ fuse F12. The kit comes with an inline fuse but I discarded that and cut the cable to length. In order to get a sidelight supply I removed the bolts holding the washer bottle and moved this out of the way. This allowed me to remove the sidelight bulb holder with a CCW twist and get access to the loom. A bit of work with a Stanley knife and I had stripped insulation off a 1cm length of the red/green wire. Next I wrapped the stripped end of a piece of wire around the sidelight cable, soldered the joint and insulated it with electrical tape. By crimping female 6mm insulated sockets onto the supply wires and using matching connectors on the cables from the control box, I ensured that these connections could be reused if necessary. All that remained to do was to connect all the wires and tidy the whole job up with a load of black cable ties and switch on – but nothing happened. It transpired that my earth connection on a 6mm stud at the fuse box was not connecting due to paint on the stud thread. Once that was fixed the job was finished, apart from those plastic rivets of course.
Â
DRLs ON
Â