I used this method, combined with the same DRL “switch” which turns the lights on automatically when the engine starts and turns them off approx 15 seconds after the engine goes off. Also, spacing for MOT requirements are met.
I have changed my indicator bulbs at the front to be Yellow and White by using a combined LED bulb.
When you turn the engine on, the indicator light up as bright white. When you turn the indicator on, the white light goes off for as long as the indicator is flashing. I couldn’t post a video, but here are a couple of photos. The pictures were taken in bright sunlight, as usual, the LED bulb is brighter in real life than the camera captures.
These cost under £15 on eBay.
In this picture, you can see the yellow and white LED chips - there are a total of 15 of each colour per bulb
The LED’s came with a resistor (if you were replacing normal bulbs) but I have TapaTurn so did not need them as the replacement relay fitted is LED friendly. I simply cut the resistor off.
Side light - note the “real” side light bulbs have been removed as they were different colour white and did not look matched.
Here you can see an indicator on and the side light on the opposite side
I fitted a relay so that the DRL’s come on with the ignition (engine running) and go off 15 seconds after the engine stops. This works by monitoring the voltage of the battery and, “at rest” the voltage is low enough to stop the relay switching the lights on. With the engine running and the battery above the trigger point the DRL’s come on. This takes about 7 seconds on my fitting to come on, and, as above, about 15 seconds to switch off. Relay was dirt-cheap. Benefit - no-thought required. Don’t have to remember to switch side-lights on etc. There is a yellow wire which I did not connect. This goes to the dipped beam and would DIM the DRL’s when the headlights are on. As the DRL bulbs are not the type you can do laser eye surgery with, I left the yellow wire unconnected.
Fitting is easy - the feed to the DRL’s is the red “out” lead. The black “out” lead is grounded.
I used a fuse doubler and took a feed from the 10 amp STOP fuse to the 12V IN. The - black lead went to ground. There is a spare DRL fuse position, but there is only one contact in the fuse holder, so a fuse wobbles about - hence using a doubler.
Here is a photo
There is a massive gap down the side of the fuses, so with everything tie-wrapped, it all tucked away down by the side.
You can see where I picked a - Ground up (yellow ring terminal)
Last, but not least, I put a spare one -each of every fuse rating in a ziplock bag and fastened it under the fuse puller.
VIDEO of my friends mod as above