Looking through Ebay I think the stereo in my car is one of these:
Is it possible to get an appropriate adaptor cable?
The stereo itself has some kind of programming/key assignment option in it’s menu so I know it’ll accept an input
The SW control adaptor kit is probably the one you need in the 1st link below. You need to check that you don’t already have these leads behind the unit, may not be programmed in. If not it’ll probably just have an ISO lead connection from unit to the cars loom to adapt the wiring, that in the 2nd link.
If in doubt ring Dynamic sounds and I’m sure they’ll sort you out with the correct kit.
You know that feeling that you’re just glad your car hasn’t caught fire…?
…yeah, that.
Twisted wires, bare wires, everything you don’t want to find.
Does anyone have a coloured pin out wiring diagram for the Mazda stereo wiring through this plug so I can at least repair this loom properly for now?
This is brilliant, thank you - now I just need to figure out which pin equates to the “key” input used by the Chinese headunit to signal the steering wheel controls.
Hopefully the repaired audio loom will let me sleep at night…
These remain unconnected on the stereo, with their labels:
Green - Head Lamp
Blue - Power antenna/amplifier
Brown - Key (which I think is the signal input for the steering wheel controls)
Orange - Parking single check
Pink - Parking sensor control wires +12v
These are the UART and speed signals, 1M, 1K, 1l
These remain unconnected in the cars loom, with what I think they are:
Orange/white stripe - 1E - TNS+
Black/white stripe - 1N - Audio control switch 1
Blue/black stripe - 1P - Audio control switch 2
So as a previous owner just connected like’ish colours together without knowing what they were doing, could my actual steering wheel controls be fried as 1N was connected to earth and 1P received a 12v feed from the live antenna/amp trigger ???
In my post above, I still think you will need the set up of leads with SW controls in the first link to get those SW buttons working.
Can someone else confirm this, I’m not familiar with these Chinese head units wiring. So basically you ditch everything you have there and use the one I mention, plug and play.
It might be beneficial if budget allows to just ditch that unit and go better. If you like it and it’s useable then fine👍
Thank you for your help but I’ll have use it as it is, at least I’m now confident in the knowledge that it’s safely wired!
I contacted DynamicSounds and there’s not a workable solution for that headunit in my car.
My Eonon Q04pro needed a connects 2 adaptor to get the steering wheel controls working even though it had a “key 1” and “key 2” wire coming out of it.
Does the 1E signal dim the display when you put the lights on? Mine has a manual dimmer button in radio mode but in CarPlay it’s distractingly bright - so I’m thinking maybe I should connect 1E to the headlamp lead on the stereo loom?
Yes - 1E ( TNS ) is live when you turn on the lights so the head unit dims.
My Eonon unit can have the brighness adjusted.
You set the normal brightness with your lights switched off for daytime running.
You can then set the brightness with the lights switched on for driving at night.
1G ( illumination ) is a variable signal that the factory head unit uses to adjust the head unit brightness
It doesn’t work with aftermarket head units it is controlled by the dash dimmer switch.
I don’t know about it on these, probably Dynamic sounds don’t want to provide a product that may or may not work on such a cheaper and maybe unknown to them.
It’s also a gamble spending £60+ on something that doesn’t work with that unit.
Exactly, the adaptor is more expensive than the head unit 
Yeah that’s the trouble when you embark on an upgrade of an entertainment centre, stereo is a shorter word.
New facia and leads can cost £100+ then if DAB the aerial £10, oh and I’ll have a reverse camera too, anything from £12 to £30, they are mostly of similar quality and from China.
