The drivers side front brake has been catching for a while now and I’ve been told I’ll need to replace the caliper soon. I know this is a common issue but I always prefer to try and fix than just replace where possible.
I’ve had the original pins out, cleaned, and re-greased but it made no difference. Got new pins from MX5Parts as was told and had read new pins can be a quick cheap fix. The new top pin is certainly moving a lot better. If you push it fully down it springs back up slightly, whereas the new bottom pin seems a lot stiffer, even more than the original….?
I can only think this means the channel for the bottom pin is the issue, not the pin itself….
Is there anything else to try or do I just have to bite the bullet and get new callipers? Is it possible to just get a new hanger than replace the full calliper etc….
I had the same issue. The brakes were binding so I changed pads, slider pins and hoses.
They were still binding and I came to the conclusion that the heat generated, caused the slider pin bores to distort.
I changed the callipers and no issues since.
The bottom pin has a rubber guide bush on it - this will feel stiffer than the top pin.
It is to help with pad knock back and squeel rduction.
Make sure it is properly lubricated ( with red rubber grease - NOT coppaslip )
On my NC1 Sport - I chose to completely rebuild the calipers using kits from Frentech.
All the parts fitted perfectly and the calipers now look and feel like new.
Maybe I’ve misunderstood, but if the thinking is that the bore holes for the slider pins have distorted from heat, then wouldn’t you just need a new hanger rather than a new calliper…? They are separate items are they not…
Indeed they are. When I stripped mine as with all slider pins I use cloth, solvent and a screwdriver to completely clean out the bores taking care not to scratch the inside. Many greased can harden and gum them up when they’re old and dried out. When new pins are greased and installed it can be really hard to press them back in fully but this is due to the grease causing an airlock in the bottom of the bore. Once you’ve got rid of this they should slide in and out lovely, almost springy as the grease will cause a vacuum as you try to pull them back out.
Thanks Dean, will have another look over the weekend…
I did give the bore a clean out with brake cleaner and used some rolled up wrag to try and give it a good clean and get any old grease out, but maybe not thoroughly enough?
Yeah to top pin is springy but the bottom one just isn’t…? When I push it all the way in I can hear and feel it touching the bottom of the bore so I’m pretty sure it’s going all the way with no obstructions.
I can’t recall whether the bottom one is the one with the rubber sleeve. This one is definitely tougher to install.
Exactly the same as above, the heat generated from the binding caliper caused rubber seals to perish and metals to become distorted.
Only answer is to change caliper. In my experiance from this issue.