Last night the passenger window stayed down on my Mk3. I’ll check out the switch today but would like to know if I can get the door panel off without a special tool for the clips?
Perhaps someone has a link to showing the procedure?
Ian
Last night the passenger window stayed down on my Mk3. I’ll check out the switch today but would like to know if I can get the door panel off without a special tool for the clips?
Perhaps someone has a link to showing the procedure?
Ian
Hi Beemer
Here is a link to a utube video…
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zqRwiohboi4
This is a right hand drive car having its driver’s door panel removed but the same procedure for our passenger doors:-)
The first bit of the video talks about a stereo he has installed but then he clearly explains and demonstrates how to remove the door card.
This is on here as a sticky, should help hopefully.
http://www.mx5oc.co.uk/forum/yaf_postst83170_MX5-MK3-5-Sport-Tech–2010–door-trim-removal.aspx
I took the motor off and the down button showed that the motor is working fine. So the fault is either in the harness or in the switch module. There is voltage between one red wire and ground when I operate the down button but no voltage on up. I had expected when extracting the motor it would leave the armature behind as with earlier models. This would have allowed me to hand turn the armature to get the window up manually. Unfortunately this motor comes of the regulator leaving nothing to turn manually
I freed the centre console but I cannot see how to release the harness clip so as to lift the console higher. I need to do this to get the plug out of this module. It will not extract and I cannot see any locking tab to press.
That said even if I released the clip getting the module out to inspect/repair it will not be an easy task.
Anyone know how the system knows the window is fully up or down? I don’t think there are any limit switches in the motor regulator assembly. Perhaps its an over current sensor?
Any more advice would be useful as the car is outside and I have sheeting over the window gap.
Ian
If you have not already done so then have a look at this web site for the MX5 service manuals and wiring diagrams. The different models are covered and they are not all the same circuit for the window system.
I’ve seen a dry solder joint on the PCB in the switch to cause an electric window to only work in one direction. I’ve re-soldered them in the past.
I guess the door card came off OK?
These mechs are very easy to test - just use a battery and swap terminals to change polarity and motor direction.
If the motor works and the cables are in not damaged or broken, the mech itself should be fine. If you suspect the wires from the switch to the mech, check continuity with a multimeter.
My bet is the switch - I would try to take apart and you will probably find an obvious problem of a less obvious one as described by Robbie.
It would be nice to simply swap passenger and driver wiring to switch around to test but from the look of the plug connectors this does not look easy.
(Apologies if this is a duplicate reply. I keep hitting “post reply” when in Quick Reply instead of Post so and the reply disappears!)
Problem fixed after stripping the module down. There was contamination on one of the silver contacts, a little sliver of something on the silver pad, perhaps lubricant. After using Contact Cleaner and my fibreglas pen I reassembled plugged it in and bingo the window was back to normal.
Thanks to all for support,
Ian
Glad you got this sorted Ian.
It would be helpful to others if you could explain the problem a little more please.
What module - the switch?
Do you have any photos to show the issue.
Thank you
Rob
Rob,
Not saving £50 on the part as I said but £151.58 !
http://www.mx5parts.co.uk/electric-window-switch-black-mk3-p-3591.html
I had every intention of taking stage-by-stage photographs but it was late in the evening, pouring rain and I was in a rush to get the job done.
The bottom line is that these switches can be repaired if you are careful with disassembly. That said I did not open up the driver’s side switch as there was no problem with it. It will be more difficult to open as it has an additional mechanism attached.
I can confirm that the window closing and opening final positions cause a current limiting circuit in the switch module to operate. There are no physical limit switches in the system.
Ian
Good job Ian
It’s not just about saving money but also gaining knowledge and not throwing out a switch that is now perfectly useable.
Price of a new switch does not surprise me - Mazda dealer would be more again.
I am sure a good used part could be sourced for a fraction of the price if required:-)
A couple of tips for those still reading this thread:
The window switch harness plug can only be released by depressing the catch which is on the right hand side. Just need to tilt the console to the left and a screwdriver will release the catch.
The other tip is to tie a string just below the plug so that after the console is reseated the plug can be more easily pulled up through the switch opening, plugged in then the switch module dropped in place.
Ian