Good evening
Want to keep my NC for as long as I can
Any advice about keeping the underside protected or any garages Nr Warrington who can do the work
Wouldn’t Mind doing the work myself is I had access to a lift so I can get under the car
Cheers John
Hi John - you’ll probably get quite a lot of responses on this topic. MX5s are great wee cars but they really weren’t built to last. Mechanically excellent but rust is an issue for most MX5 owners of older marks.
I have a 2009 NC2 and to keep rust at bay I use Dinitrol products. Remove surface rust and scale, apply the rust converter (RC900 I think) followed by the underseal (4941), inject the ML into cavities and box sections. It’s a messy job and you’ll need to check coverage, and probably redo areas once a year. If you get onto the Dinitrol web site you’ll find kits for different types of cars. Be prepared to buy a few extra cans and it should cost you about £300 in total. Great if you have a lift, most of us who DIY are on our backs with the car on axle stands.
Other members will have different product preferences. To get it done professionally be prepared to pay £750 to £1000. Check out the FORUM on this topic, it’s one of the most posted topics.
Dave
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Had mine done last year my the local MX5 Guru in Rhos on Sea. (Can I name Penrhyn Garage?). He did a fantastic job, took a week. Uses dynatrol cavities and surfaces. Arch liners, crossmembers and exhaust removed. Very thorough, I’d have no hesitation recommending him. Gives you a folio of about 30 photos of work done as well.
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This NC had been done professionally around four years ago but still needed a check over and refresh. Ok looking at the undersides its the rear sill and lower arch areas that catch most of what the road throws up at them, the rest is just touch up here and there.
Rear arch liners removed exhaust off (rear end up on stands) I found a little surface corrosion. I used a small flap wheel on my Dremel to grind any stubborn rusty bits.
Under the rear most part of the sill where it meets the rear arch bottom catches it most…
Overall not too bad under there…
Rear arches retreated and looking much better, spruced up the back box too.
Products used from the left. Rust converter from Built Hamber then apply 1 or 2 coats of two part Bilt Hamber black epoxy mastic (mix 4 to 1 measure) for good measure I applied some Dinitrol over the top. Apply a suitable covering over the epoxy mastic if it’s more exposed to light, that’s why I used the Dinitrol.
Full instructions on their website. BTW it’s all pretty pongy stuff, especially the mastic so working in an enclosed space wear good nose and mouth protection, even outside really when under the car.
And just to add…I only used the epoxy mastic on the really exposed areas under the car, the more rusty bits for extra protection. Mostly you can get away with the rust converter and at least two coats of Dinitrol
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Thank you for the advice
I dont have a lift but a old work colleague
Has access to one planning to catch up with him again soon as he is keen to see the mx-5
Also he has a old mustang he is restoring