Lanoguard… wanting to underseal my MK3.5 what do you all recommend?
Seen this product and good reviews and wondered if anyone here has used it. Also if you have would you recommend and which kit did you buy. Thanks very much. Steve
Although that Lanoguard gets good write ups I’m not convinced on it. Never used it myself, but read up it needs regular application. They refer to Land Rovers being treated in one review, wash down, spray on, repeat on a regular basis?
Dinitrol for me, I used the DIY spray cans on a past NC and the current car on parts that needed some more protection.
Also used black 2 part epoxy mastic from Bilt Hamber under the arches and over the parts that catch the rust, sill, rear chassis legs. I then spray over (to protect) with Dinitrol.
You need to check annually for any need for reapplication, the key is prep before applying. Badly rusting areas need grinding away removing as much rust as possible before applying a rust converter, plenty of them on the marke. I use the Bilt Hamber stuff plus Kurust for that.
Thanks very much 
Agreed with Mick - would rather have something that actually bonds to the chassis / other parts than a wax which comes off within a year. I am seeing tons of Lanoguard adverts recently and, like with other things in life / the modern world it is often good advertising rather than a good product that increases sales!
Rust converter, drill with wire brush attachment, various paintbrushes, googles, mask, patience are all key - just like painting and decorating, the bulk of the work is in the prep but this is what ensures a good result.
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BTW that epoxy mastic is pretty pongy, as with most of this stuff, mask, eye protection, gloves etc and use outside or a well ventilated garage.
Thanks very much
See below which I have previously posted - it’s now a couple of years so price might not be correct - so far have had no need to reapply but she is only a summer run about - hope it helps to make your mind up.
The only downside is the smell! Sheep dip springs to mind but it goes off after a couple of days.
In 2017 I bought a 2010 Mazda mx5 NC cabriolet with 75K miles on the clock, she was by no means perfect but essentially appeared to be sound.
Over the next couple of years I put right various issues which arose after purchase and after the 2020 MOT the examiner commented on the rust he had observed on her undercarriage while going about his business, which got me thinking about what I was going to do about it.
At some time in her life she had been resprayed but her collars and cuffs don’t match, the engine bay along with inner sills, outer door surrounds and inner boot lid area were not included and after finding a piece of broken plastic grill on the inside of a front valance I’m guessing she may have been front ended at some point and hence maybe the respray.
So what to do?
I thought about a professional underbody seal using the likes of Dinitrol and read numerous comments from people not happy with the results due to careless work and then when considering a cost of around £500 or so, was it worth the risk of having no control over the work and spending a considerable amount on a less than perfect car?
Had she been a Prima Donna with half the amount of miles I might have thought it a wise investment but I just couldn’t bring myself to seriously consider it, so went off on a quest to determine what DIY solution would suit.
Lanoguard won the day, there are no chemicals. £71.94 (inc shipping), kit includes 600ml grease, 2lt spray and the spray head assembly.
The manufactures advise “minimal prep” and 20 minutes job done, I don’t think so!
It all depends on the amount of rust, if the vehicle is relatively new with only surface corrosion then yes virtually no prep and you could be done in 20 minutes or so but with me and my 11 year old Mazda it was a different story.
I started by jacking and putting an axel stand at front offside, removing the wheel, completing the work, putting the wheel back then moving on to the rear offside then onto the near side.
Each corner took at least 2 hours to scrape back the rust, another 10 minutes or so greasing nuts, bolts, seams and vulnerable areas then just a couple of minutes with the Lanoguard spray.
Then I moved on to the underside, not really a lot to do there fortunately but I have to say I am really happy with the results, time will tell so took a number of photos to compare when I next come to top up next year which should hopefully be a doddle and will only take 20 minutes (we will see)!
I didn’t bother about rust treatment, the car is a summer runabout and is covered and under cover in winter with plenty of ventilation so didn’t see the need.
The only issue I had was that the spray head stopped spraying after a long session, it was down to a blocked filter at the end of the pipe in the container, easy sorted, pull off, run under warm water, clean off, wouldn’t recommend leaving the filter off as the spray nozzle would then likely block and be more difficult to clear.
Another tip would be to put the grease container in some warm water before use, makes it easier to remove and brush on.
Here are several pics showing before (after cleaning), during (after grease & spray) and after (24hrs later) –
It’s been ok under there Geoff, earlier this year I had it stripped for treatment. None needed shown below, I did top up around the wheel arches, liners off.
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Thanks very much
Used Lanoguard on a few of my cars, used to be a Waxoyl guy, but would not look back now. Prep is a wash underneath, once dry wire brush rhw loose stuff off, then spray Lanoguard everywhere apart from brakes. It’s rubber friendly and is great at lubricating bushings, it creeps into nooks and crannies well. It’s a liquid, so comes out as a fine mist, you don’t need a lot of it. If it’s dripping off you have put too much on. Takes a few days to cure to a wax like stain finish. Water just beads off. Once done it just needs a check/top up once a year. As it dries clear, yo ucan see any problem areas occuring early, no rust hiding under black stonechip or flaking waxoyl. Have done 3 cars with it over a 3 year period, no issues and no new rust.
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Fab thanks very much 
Yes, agree with Mick.
Get onto the Dinitrol website they do kits for different vehicles. The RC900 rust converter, followed by the 4941 underseal and then the ML into the nooks and crannies. But before you start you really need to make sure all the loose rust and scale has been removed, that really is essential. Also, this isn’t a one off and forget about it. I do an annual inspections and reapply to areas where necessary.
Good luck.
Dave
Cheers
Dinitrol…
https://www.mazdamenders.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=6868
Lanoguard is used by people on budgets or that don’t want to spend and cheap out on something that should not be.
M-m
I used Fluid Film (v similar to Lanoguard I think) in simple aerosol cans on my car- a 2018 ND which I bought late last year. Mine’s a summer driver only but by no means a dry weather car.
I started by getting the underside steam cleaned (cost me £20) letting it dry thoroughly and then put the car on a 2-post lift, took the wheels off and covered the brake discs with plastic bags. I bought a cheap paper suit from Screwfix, wore goggles and plastic bags over my shoes. Then I put a sheet on the workshop floor (to save on cleaning up after) and sprayed all of the underside, avoiding the exhaust. It won’t harm anything so ok if it gets on electronics or rubber parts. It took about 2 1/2 cans to do a very thorough job, including spraying into box sections where possible using the little plastic tube.
It smells a little but 10 months on it’s as good as the day I did it… A very cost effective and thorough solution for me. I shall only consider reapplying if/when it wears off.
+1 for the lanoguard kit.
First thing is that if there’s any more than surface rust it’s important to sort that first regardless of what you than put on top.
My car is no garage Queen (06’ 2.0 NC1 used as a budget fun/track day toy) but was solid underneath so I chose Lanoguard for two main reasons…
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Non-toxic: yeah it smells a little ‘sheepy’ but if I’m going to be underneath the car appyling it’s way more preferable than any petrochemical based undercoats.
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Visibility: NC’s tend to rust from the inside (e.g. spot welds between sheets of box section sandwiched together). Obviously, a full bare metal strip back followed by undercoat is the best option and should avoid that but a) requires big £££/time commitment and b) unless you go this far it’s difficult to know you’re not just covering over issues.
I don’t do huge mileage but my car lives outside all year and has held up really well. I even had enough spray and grease left over from last year to do a top up this year so overall very impressed!
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Thanks very much, she’s very clean underneath and only got 24k on her. So just wanted to prevent and corrosion. Sounds a good fit.
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