Undersealing

Can anyone recommend a workshop to clean and underseal my Mk3 with Waxoyl or Dinitrol in the Newcastle/Gateshead area?

Hi, I think AK Automotive are in your neck of the woods, give them a shout.

Thanks for the advice, I spoke to AK but they dont do undersealing & were not able to recommend anyone. Looking online most undersealing companies seem to be going out of business, I’m going to try local body shops but would much rather use someone with MX5 experience

 

Hi just done my 2009 roadster a pal of mine has a workshop loaned me the lift i wire brushed the loose stuff and coated it with hammerite black satin my pal then Shultz it cost 4 hours work for me 1/2 tin of paint one can of Shultz total £25.

unable to find any one who will do this 4 in the north east cost £300 upto £500 no one will do a full steam clean probab because of the threat to on board electr damage 

I had my 09 MX5 NC done by a firm in Alnwick. It was originally done badly by a firm in Newcastle but the Alnwick garage finished the job for me.
Let me know if you want further details
Adrian

 

Adrian, it would be great if you could share the details here so next time someone is looking in that area they can see what’s available.

Gf motors in Sandyford Newcastle will Waxoil your 5 £100 approx.

After checking out all companies out there , reading lots of reviews etc I have decide to do the job myself ordered dinitrol full rustproof plus sealers etc going to take 3 to 4 days in my garage will be hard work but products cost me £90  so just a lot of elbow grease at least I will know everywhere will get covered and I can see what areas needs attention and if any parts need changing , wish me luck it is going to be a pilgrimage  

 

Good for you Top gun - a number of us have decided this is a good way to guarantee a reasonable job being done in the past. At least if anything goes wrong or is not done properly, only one person to blame.

I would advise leaving this work until the weather is much warmer, height of summer is best. You will need to pressure wash and dry the car in addition to work for some hours underneath the vehicle. Most treatments are also easier to apply and flow better in July/August.   

 

A few points from experience of doing a few MK3 cars.

You need to get the front grille off as there are areas in there that rust and you cannot see them with the grill on but that is a pain and probably is a day on its own not a full day but however it takes make that the only job that day. Maybe easier to get the front bumper off.

The front internal wheel arch protectors need to come off but will be held on by the springs so do your best and it is a pain as they flap about while you apply the goo.

Same with the rear internal wheel arch covers but they come off completely.

Good primer here and I will try to find a write up I did on a mk3.

http://www.mazdamenders.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2094

I did mine myself and Eddie’s guide, as above, was wonderful and made things clearer.

Still messy, hugly satisfying and yes, possible better in warmer weather . . .  . . but you could start doing the rust removal on the obvious bits of the car and applying the rust converters now and do the proper undersealing in the warmer weather

It’s not THAT messy!

 Can you spot the bit I missed originally? The rattle cans are fab for difficult to reach places.

 

I too did it myself and used Bilthamber Dynax products,  UB  ,  UC  and S50.  I used the mazdamenders guide as well. I would say to plan the job to work from under the car out to avoid getting dripped on by the stuff you have just applied.

I was fitting Coilovers at the same time and so removed the wheel arch liners front and back. The most awkward fittings were the small self tapping screws at the forward edge of the rear liners which screw into a poorly designed plastic grommet in the bodywork. After treating the sills I silicone the grommet back in and smeared the screw with grease before refitting.

There is also a screw at the back of the arch liner which engages with a square nut which is ineffectively held captive in the plastic of the rear liner. This will likely spin. Its 10mm A/F

The great thing about doing it yourself is you get a thorough picture of the state of the car and can more effectively gauge when future treatment will be needed.

You can also stage the work and make a better job than would otherwise be made by a trader who is trying to get the job done as quickly as possible.

 

Best of luck,

I did mine two years ago but I think it needs going over again. I took the rear wheel arch liners off and the exhaust back box so I could get at the rear undersides properly.

I’m going to tackle the front end later this year and a refresh over the rear parts.

I also used removed the backbox and midpipe and rubbed down the rust and scale on the pipe and welds between the boxes/flanges and gave it a coat of cold galvanising spray. Although not really intended for this purpose it has held up well to the exhaust temps and looks so much better than before

[quote=Drumtochty]
A few points from experience of doing a few MK3 cars.

You need to get the front grille off as there are areas in there that rust and you cannot see them with the grill on but that is a pain and probably is a day on its own not a full day but however it takes make that the only job that day. Maybe easier to get the front bumper off.

The front internal wheel arch protectors need to come off but will be held on by the springs so do your best and it is a pain as they flap about while you apply the goo.

Same with the rear internal wheel arch covers but they come off completely.

Good primer here and I will try to find a write up I did on a mk3.

http://www.mazdamenders.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2094

thanks for that , going to help me loads cheers