WannaBe MX5 owner seeking advice...

Buying a ‘5 and Insurance advice Buying Advice
2

Hi all, I’m a non MX5 owner, thinking seriously of taking the plunge.

Having said that - I have just read some of the 29 pages about chasis rail rot!

My wishlist is :

 

a Mk2 or 2.5 in a dark blue, racing green or black preferably.

I like the sound of a 6 speed box ( or is this a mistake? )

I was looking for one that has never had a mention of rust on the MOT history, but after much searching may have to drop that wish!

I found a very nice & reasonably priced 2.5 with no history of rust, but it’s in that very ‘lively’ met blue & I’m not sure I can live with that :frowning:

 

The main question is - where are the main rust places. But having seen the chasis rail thread, it seems that is a tricky job without removing wheels, undertrays etc? And I also gather the sills rot from the inside out, so once the rust appears, it’s too late??

 

the car I’m planning to look at next has this as an advisory in 2016 : "Offside Front Suspension component mounting prescribed area is corroded but not considered excessive (2.4.A.3) "

 

and this as a fail in 2018 ( which must have been since fixed ) : "Offside Front Seat belt anchorage prescribed area strength or continuity significantly reduced (7.1.1 (a) (i)) "

 

… but otherwise looks in good condition ( from the description & photos ) and 50K miles / 6 speed / bark blue / leather etc.

 

Is there a ‘mobile expert’ who would examine the car for a fee ( near Guildford ) ?

 

So many questions - thanks in advance!

3

just to say - I have since watched the excellent video by MX5 restorer about how to spot chasis rail rust & how they fix it. Already this forum is proving very useful.

4

Either buy on condition not colour or buy a much newer cars that has not started to rust.

5

The seat belt anchorage point will almost definitely be the sills rotting.  That’s normally what it goes on the MOT as. 

Out of interest what is your budget if you don’t mind me asking. Some MK3 are now as cheap as late MK2 and although they do also suffer it’s nowhere near to the same extent. 

6

Arguably, the rusty NCs showing up are in a worse state than rusty NBs, as it seems that, structurally, its bits of the subframes that go first. On top of that, you have a relatively fragile MZR motor.

The very cheapest (worst) NCs are probably not a good alternative to the most expensive (probably the best) NBs.

Rust repairs in NBs are now pretty well understood, and you can put a firm figure on repair costs. With NCs, its still an evolving picture (varies between flakey wings, rotted subframes and “its rusty everywhere, where do I start”), and a bit of a black hole wrt repair costs.

7

pardon my ignorance, but - NCs & NBs ? This is new termilology to me!

And when it comes to fragile motors - I thought these were bulletproof?

Cheers, Ian.

8

 

 

Ian.

NA = Mk1 (pop-ups)

NB = Mk2.

NB FL ( FaceLift)= later Mk2.

NC = MK3

ND = MK4.

NA, NB, & NBFL all had VERY solid blocks & valve gear bits. A bit rough and noisy but  good old school stuff.

Cheap/cheaper to fix mechanically speaking, rot not so much depending on how porous and where.

NC?

Saz aluded to their oil-starvation/ low & marginal ability to withstand low oil levels…sometimes leading to bearing failures.

Expensive to fix. 

9

Some people say that the NC (MK3) engine has a tendency to burn oil.

Mine doesn’t, and many other owners on here have said the same.

Couple this with a difficult to read dipstick (a modified stick is available), and I could well imagine a lazy owner, one who rarely lifts the bonnet, could find themsleves in trouble.

I’ve not heard of many engine failures on here for any of the models if i’m being honest, that doesn’t mean to say it doesn’t happen, it can happen with any car.

 

In my opinion, there are a lot more rusty MK2’s about than rusty MK3’s, but that goes with the age.

The youngest MK2, or earliest MK3 is getting on for 14 years old, find a 14 year old Fiesta without rust (now theres a challenge)

 

It’s all down to personal taste, but I prefer the look of the MK3, that’s why I bought one.

 

Which ever model you decide on, if you intend to keep it as a hobby car, then take your time, find the right one.

Don’t be afraid to crawl under it, find one with low miles, and tons of history, preferbly one which has spent most of it’s years being used as a summer toy.

Check it’s MOT history on line, whilst it doesn’t exactly tell you where its been living all these years, it will tell you it’s average mileage each year.

 

Another tip, which may help you decide, on the MK3, each and every panel will have a security sticky showing the chassis number.

If the sticker is missing or doesn’t match, then there’s a chance that panel may have been replaced.

I’m not sure if this sticker is on previous marques ???

10

So I went to see this very nice 6 speed Mx5 :

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2004-Mazda-MX-5-1-8i-Sport-6-Speed-Limited-Edition-With-Hardtop-Blue-Mk2/133154153403

and LOVED it… until I looked underneath & established it’s a rot-box. If the advice on The MX5 Restorer’ YouTube is correct ( & I’m sure it is ) that MX5 needs two chassis rails, and probably a new sill too.

I have a photograph of the chassis rail corrosion - how do I post images on here?

Cheers, Ian.

11

https://www.dropbox.com/s/y56qdubao6s1t6g/Rusty6.jpg?dl=0

12

Thank goodness you’d done your homework  the advert reads like a dream, some unsuspecting soul will buy that  was the dealer surprised when you pointed out the corrosion? So, low miles is no indicator of the structural integrity of the car! Or the service history either,  it appears. That car as it stands is £2k overpriced, maybe more. However, at the right price, it might be worth investing the money to bring it back to a roadworthy car. There are good cars out there but it’s finding them. 

Barrie

13

I think you are probably looking at the right car for you - a MK2.5 SVT sport 2001 - 5 but there are pitfalls with this car along with benefits…

  1. 2003 on had Fuji diff which is prone to premature failure. Earlier Torsen diff is a much better option.

  2. big brakes that are prone to rust and general neglect issues.

  3. six speed box - pretty bullet proof.

  4. 146bhp VVT engine - again reasonably reliable

  5. Leather seats - drivers side bolster usually a good sign of general condition.

  6. Mohair(cloth) roof with glass rear window

  7. usual front chassis rail, rear sill/arch and general underside rust very possible

  8. 16 inch wheels as standard, usually kerbed.

Six speed box appears marmite but most agree it works with this car. Expect a number of wasted journeys to see these before finding a good one. All sorts of indicators as to one that is not good and has not been cared for in the best way. I’m think a good one with no repair is probably worth £2 - 3k

Always check the MOT history.         

14

Thanks for the replies.

Part of me thinks that if most Mk2’s have the chassis rail issue, and even ones that look OK might be bubbling away inside, that it’s worth buying a rotten one with the right spec & having the works done & treated to prevent further issues.

The dealer had 3 MX5’s in, so he knows the score, but when I first contacted him he gave me the impression that he wouldn’t move much on price, so unfortunately this one is not for me.

I’m not in a massive hurry, so it’s easy to walk away. But that car was nearly local to me & took a 2 hour round trip to visit, so this could become a time-consuming project!

This one looks interesting ( 5 speed though ) :

https://www.pistonheads.com/classifieds/used-cars/mazda/mx-5-mk2/mazda-mx-5-nb-nevada------------------2003/10009585

… but it’s in Moray! Italy would be closer. And seven owners.

Cheers, Ian.

15

and there is also this one to consider!

ttps://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mazda-MX-5-MV-Limited-FRESH-IMPORT-JUST-ARRIVED/223664334228?hash=item34136ee594:g:8i8AAOSwQOxdbo65

16

Before you waste anymore time looking at cars always check the MOT history.    https://www.check-mot.service.gov.uk/

If there is any mention of rust, just like in the ebay one ,don’t bother. Having looked at what is around, there are many Z4’s at good prices. Better protected from the factory regarding rust.

17

That’s true but who wants to drive around in something that looks like teletubbies house?

18

 

 

Thanks Ray, the MOT check is a Godsend - I use it all the time to rule-out cars that have had multiple problems in the past.

 

My search has come a long way in the past few weeks as I originally wanted an MX5 with zero history of rot. But I’m now beginning to think the priority is getting one that has had the ( inevitable ) rot sorted properly.

 

I first started driving in the 80’s, when most cars needed a good inspection for rust ( Mk11 Cortinas, Escorts, Dolomites, etc ) . More recently, looking for family motors, the whole rust thing seems to be a thing of the past. Except for MX5’s!

 

My wish-list doesn’t include a Z4 though, but I hope you enjoy yours if you have one.

 

Cheers, Ian.

19

This is another good site to use. https://www.vehiclestats.co.uk/       I had a 2.5 Z4 a few years ago. Far more comfortable on long journeys, zero rust but unreliable ! Now I have a 2006, reliable, but every year I am underneath it checking for rust !

20

Buy a 2.5 £700 below book price, and use the money you’ve saved to get the rails welded. Thas wot I dun.

 

 

Rail repair sections made from one thickness of metal ( 2mm ) will way outlast any double thickness rails, no matter how little rust you “think” they have.

 

 

Paul G

(professional coded welders opinion)