Hi and thanks for your input so far. It’s interesting that @liamog would mention the steering wheel locking, because - as seemingly unrelated to my “beeping dilemma” it is - I do have intermittent problems with the locking mechanism. It started last summer when - after having filled my car up at the gas station - I wanted to leave, but couldn’t start the engine; the light in the start/stop button was green but different in shape than usually (sort of narrowish) and I could feel the steering wheel was locked in place unusually stiff. But after I forced the wheel to turn both directions several times, the light return to fully normal and the engine started. Ever since, I experienced the opposite problem with unlocking (as well as locking) the steering wheel: namely - after I declutch fully - the start/stop button LED button lights in amber instead of green and is blinking; only after it stops blinking and turns solid amber am I able to start the engine… If this happens, the steering wheel turns freely so I can drive - but the start/stop button stays amber permanently, until I stop and swith ignition off; the steering wheel doesn’t lock though even when I open the driver’s door to get off!
The behavior described above happens only intermittently, and tends to do so more often with low ambient temperatures - which BTW makes me suspect it’s rather a mechanical problem and not an electronics-related. The more so that it isn’t accompanied by any acoustic or error-light warning…
But of course - with those 5 doube-beeps warnings, and you alluding to steering lock - I’m even more curious now whether or not they are related (even though they do not occur simultaneously), and what my course of action should be. Looking forward to somemore input from you guys,
Piotr
PS I’d appreciate any and all links to white papers etc. on how the steering wheel lock is built and acting!
You mention start stop button turning amber. This is what the manual suggests
If there is a malfunction with the push button start function, the push button start indicator light (amber) flashes. In this case, the engine may start, however, have the vehicle checked at an expert repairer, we recommend an Authorised Mazda Repairer as soon as possible.
In general, if it beeps, there will be a waning light of some kind. A fellow member couldn’t start his ND the other day at a car show, several of us failed to see the flashing key on the dash - the key battery had gone flat!
Hi @ian.prossor - since you mention a code reader, obviously I do NOT have access to the proprietary Mazda one, and my nearest authorized Mazda Repairer charges a steep price for even connecting one’s car to it. But I’d like to ask a probably naive question: should an Android app like the Torque Pro suffice to get out the relevant codes? I’m asking because I’ve tried it, and it finds no error codes in my car whatsoever !
Some code readers will, others won’t depends on the OBD-II plug and app.
Could you not try a local independent garage first and see if they get and codes?
That’s exactly what I’m going to do. One more question to you @ian.prossor , if you don’t mind: I found the Shop manual page on the Start/Stop Unit you posted
However, I’m unable to find any drawings or at least schematic diagrams of the entire steering wheel lock - start/stop unit - immobilizer assembly. I really would appreciate some help finding something of that kind because - as I mentioned earlier - I strongly suspect my locking malfunction is of mechanical, not electronical nature. As such, it’s quite possible no error codes are being generated, which would make starting the diagnostic process with a diagnostics computer/code reader irrelevant (while some not quite honest shop could charge me deerly for, anyway). On the other hand, having seen such a drawing etc., I might avoid it…
Thanks for both links, particularly the video one! Since (which I should have mentioned earlier) - when I swith the ignition off and open the door - I can hear 3x faint clicks like from a relay (as if the electronics wants to do its thing, but the mechanics won’t let it), AND my car isn’t driven much - looking at the assembly as shown in the video I’m reasurred my problem is mechanical. The grease on those gears? Hmm - possible, especially given that with air temperature rise, the steering lock starts to operate normally and the amber light goes away!
Also - looking at the other thread - it certainly would be possible to repair my locking system by myself, only replacing some offending component… But unfortunately, with my 70+ years of age and some spinal cord - related mobility issues, that’s not an option.
Heck - it is going to cost me cost an arm and a leg!
That sounds like the first thing to check for me, especially as the OP said that the car isn’t driven much, and that the problem occurs at low temperatures, neither of which are good for battery health.
These cars don’t seem to respond well to a low battery, which can manifest itself in a myriad of ways.