Hi
Apologies if this is the question of a simpleton (I’m new!) - but what engine oil do you guys recommend?
I’ve got a Mk1 1.6.
Cheers in advance [:D]
CP
Castrol Magnatec 10w-40 It’s a bit pricey but it’s excellent oil. If you keep your eyes open Halfords sometimes have a sale on of oils and Magnatec could be one of them. I always get enough for my next service so I already have it in. I also buy more than one oil filter from MX5PARTS to save in Postage too.
I’m using 5W40 fully-synthetic after it was recommended by various forum members and also the helpful chap at Opie Oils. I used to use 10w40 semi-synth but the HLAs are a lot quieter with the 5W40.
Ordered it from here, very quick delivery and I intend to use them in future :
Fuchs TITAN SUPERSYN 5W-40 High Performance, Fully Synthetic, Engine Oil -4 Litres
SKU: FUCSS5W40-4
£24.23
Make sure you order a genuine Mazda oil filter also, it’s not worth using some cheap copy. As Pollyana says MX5Parts sell them at a good price.
Castrol Edge 0w40 fully synthetic - not cheap, but only the best will do for my baby! With probably purchase from opieoils next time, think I seen it on their web site.
Mobil 1 0W 40. It completely silenced the HLA clatter on my 130,000 mile Mark 1.
Mobil 1 5W/50 best I’ve used for eliminating hla clatter
Mobil 1 0W40. The Castrol Edge equivalent gave me horrid HLA clatter, sometimes for 2-3 minutes on startup (tip: switching the engine off and immediately restarting usually stops the clatter, and Wynn’s Hydraulic Lifter Treatment in there for a few weeks before an oil change gets rid of it semi-permanently).
The first oil I used was Castrol Magnatec 5W30, which gave the best MPG but was probably a bit thin.
Castrol Magnatec 10w-40 for me, but be sure your oil filter has a non return valve fitted so to stop oil draining back out of the filter, I also have castrol g/box and diff oils to change in the spring one week end
So all ready to go bar one question. I’ve got my halfords fully synthetic 5W-40 next to that car with a new filter and some flush. However although everyone here talks re *W-40 oils and my haynes also says *W-40, why then does the owners manual say 5W-30 or 10W-30? This irregularity is causing me to hesitate, could some one explain inorder that I can procees without doubts, please. Car is 1999 Mk2 1.8 with 88K on the clock.
IHC
Rod Grainger’s MX-5 manual also states *W-30. It would be good to understand the rationale for people’s preference for *W-40.
Bump,
I’m on the verge of taking the 5W-40 back to halfords and getting it some *W-30 as instructed in the manual. Could someone please suggest any reason why I should offer it the 5W-40 that sits on the shelf besides the ‘5’ in the garage waiting for its chance…
Still confused - just looked at mx5parts site - they only sell *W-40… help please?
I don’t think you will get a definitive answer here[:^)] Reason being that a whole varity of oils are used by forum members. From Magnatec 10 W40, castrol5W50, what’s his names own brand 0w50 etc etc etc. All depends on what you do with your car. Me, I use Mobil1 5W50, seems the best I have used so far, still clean after 3000ks good oil pressure and no HLA rattle. These are personal observations.
Geoff, thanks for the insight. I’m thinking many using thicker oils are cars with higher milages perhaps. I think I will therefore go and swap to the 5W-30 given thats what the owners manual and rod grainger recommends. Until there is a problem that needs sorting through doing something else its probably best to stick with manufactures instructions.
IHC
Interesting further insight:
I just used the halfords on line oil wizard, entered car details and it offered two lists:
earlier and upto 12/1999 = *W-40
00/1999 and beyond = *W-30
The overlap certainly does not help me, but some time in 1999 Mazda changed the recommended spec. (I dont know if engine changes occured). Given my handbook says *W-30 and its a V plate ie late 1999, I will go with the *W-30.
Just to confuse the issue further for you… High mileage cars tend to have their HLA’s gummed up a bit and so it is best to use an oil which is thinner at low temperature (i.e. a 0W-* or 5W-*) so that the oil gets to the lifters faster. Once the oil is warm its viscosity is lower and on very worn engines there could be a problem with the oil staying in the bearings. Modern engines are built to such tight tolerances, and modern oils are so good, that even after a lot of miles there is usually negligible wear, so you don’t need a thicker oil. Virtually any oil will give good protection. Manufacturers specify 30W and 40W because their lower viscosity helps fuel consumption.
In short, stick in whatever the book says, unless you get HLA clatter, in which case switch to an oil which is 0W-* or 5W-*
Just switched to 5w30. Clatter is gone once the oil pressure needle swings into place after a few seconds. Seems to use less fuel too - I did 190 miles before the needle dropped below halfway, which has never happened before.
With new rocker cover and CAS gaskets I can’t find any leaks.
Slightly more expensive at £17 instead of £12 for my usual semi-syn 10W40. Stocked up for the next change already!
What is it, and where from?
5w30 is Total 9000, 10w40 is Total 7000. Still use the 10w40 in my 225k Golf with 5k changes. GSF used to sell it, I get mine from Mole Valley Farmers now.