I like the colour coordinated ramps… Where do you get them ?
Today I learnt how to adjust the push-rod that operates the NC clutch master cylinder.
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Check the clutch pedal travel is 130mm. Bare foot on the pedal with end of tape measure held between the toes, note the difference in readings against the stitching on the steering wheel while operating the clutch. In specification, so the top adjustment is not needed.
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Recharge the inspection lamp. (And have lunch.)
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Adjust the seat base so far back it jams on the runners.
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Place the Bathroom Stool beside the car (door already open), and almost next to the seat.
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Find both the 10mm and 12mm spanners, and the inspection lamp, place them in the foot well up against against the bulkhead, anywhere else will be out of reach.
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Carefully lie on your back, shoulders in the foot well, hips on the bathroom stool, and head under the steering wheel and dash and both arms forward. It is just about possible for a six foot contortionist. Call for the reading glasses to see this view with head on the floor under the pedal (much easier with the camera).
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Find the 12mm lock nut, and loosen it. It is usually done up far in excess of the specified torque setting. Easiest if you also have the 10mm spanner on the push rod.
BUT, if it is too tight this way, such as when loosening off the locknut for the very first time, put a big spanner across the flats of the bracket it locks against (so as not to bend the assembly elsewhere or break off a green button or the switch) and just use a ‘closing the scissors’ action on the big spanner and the 12mm for easiest leverage. Big spanner size varies on where it fits the bracket, 20-22mm might be OK. -
Wind out the push rod a whole turn, awkward at only about 1/6th of a turn at a time.
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Extricate stiff body from foot well, and check “free play” against specification. Hmm, it seems to have made no difference… Never mind, remembering other posts on the forum, one turn might be enough to be going on with.
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Repeat from stage 6 if necessary.
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Tighten the 12mm lock nut while holding the rod in place with the 10mm and using a small visegrip dangler as a pointer for reminding one where the adjustment point was.
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Repeat stage 9 as a final check.
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Reposition seat, only possible without any weight on it.
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Remove spanners and bath stool.
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Start the engine and listen carefully for the bite point, easy with such a noisy box.
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Drive round the block in the sun. Yes there is a difference, it is slightly better, at 105mm disengaged it is now just within the Mazda spec (80-110mm) .
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Ask SWMBO to try finding a gear - no luck. (RESULT, it is still mine to drive).
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Go for a much longer drive in the sun.
This exercise took me the best part of three hours the first time, what with checking the manual and trying to find a position from which I could actually bring both spanners to bear. The Bathroom Stool made all the difference, suddenly it was easy.
EDIT. The second time a few months later it took about ten minutes, and maybe one more turn of the push rod took it to 95mm (mid-spec) which is ideal for me, although SWMBO still hates it.
Scroll down through the Mellens clutch.pdf figs 4,5,6 for more detail info and diagrams
(Edited to make the clutch.pdf link still work)
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Treated it to a new Sat Nav after my 2007 Tom Tom One expired this morning. That was after I treated myself to a new freezer after my existing appliance expired on Thursday. These Bank Holiday weekends are rather expensive!
There’s a spec for that? I was not aware. I just adjusted it until i liked how it felt. Good job with the stool, I did not have one so I managed to get stuck under the dashboard, both elbows wedged underneath it with me looking up to the back of the speedo. Calling for help was no good, it was 1am. Managed to extricate myself after 10 minutes or so. Was kinda scary
Ouch!
Mellens has a copy of the manual pages, it includes easy-looking diagrams and relevant measurements and torques for the nuts etc. But I don’t have a torque wrench for open ended spanners, and in that tight space? In other words just nip it up a bit.
I got them from Halfords years ago in the clearance section, but they are actually caravan “level up” ramps, but do the job.
Weston Park Motor Show where I won 2nd prize in the 1990-2004 competition
Over the last week I’ve been…
Grinding away some small rust patches on the rear chassis rails and around the exhaust hangers. Removed the front cross brace come gearbox protection plate to grind away the rust. Spot treated odd bits of surface rust on the chassis, the bits Mazda didn’t protect. All done and treated with Bilt Hamber products and whilst under the car treated and painted the rear exhaust box heat shield with some silver paint (heat resistant)
Gave the hood a good clean and treated with Fabsil, also gave the whole car inside and out a good detailing.
Spent all day yesterday giving all 4 cars a good clean & polish. Might as well not have bothered as they are now all covered in a fine green dust. Dunno where that came from?
Mine’s the same. It’s covered in tree pollen.
My MK2.5 passed its MOT today with no advisories - not bad for a 16 year old car.
Service, brake fluid change & MOT today - no advisories followed by a little run out this evening around the North East Derbyshire villages of Unstone, Apperknowle, Marsh Lane, Middle Handley, Ford & Ridgeway after which I then gave it a quick wash.
After working full-time for 35 years I decided this year that it was time to slow down a bit, so reduced my working week to 4 days from the start of April - hence I’m hoping to have more opportunities this summer to enjoy the car than I’ve had previously!
With all the talk about mx-5 s falling apart in a heap of rust at the first sign of a passing cloud has made me a bit paranoid about rust so had a look inside the sills with an endoscope via the access holes conveniently sited under the plastic cover on the door post. Glad to say all is clean in there but sprayed a load of wax in anyway.
Whilst waiting for my callipers coming back I scrubbed the backplates added 3 coats of zinc rust inhibiting primer and a coat of smooth Hammerite.
Great work, I’ve done a fair bit of that in the past, it’s very satisfying isn’t it!?
Today I took one my daisy alloys to a tyre shop to find and repair a puncture.
For months, it’s been losing 2 or 3 psi over about 10 days. I’ve had the wheel off the car,
searched for damage, objects, and ran water all round, all over the thing… but could find
nothing. So this morning at 8.30 am sharp I was outside the tyre place.
Took them a while, but they eventually found the seepage around the bead.
£17 later ( phew ) and I was headed for home.
The rear exhaust pipe section I’d ordered for my NB arrived today. I checked it will fit straight onto the new catalytic convertor I’ve had sitting in my garage for the last two years - it does!
All I’m waiting for now is the rear box from MX5 Parts, ordered and paid for at the Spring Meet but now advised I won’t get it until the end of May! Not too impressed with that length of a delay. They have offered to send me the gasket though…!
Fitted a set of LED T10 bulbs to replace the halogen sidelights on my mk2.5.
WOW! What a difference! Let’s hope they last.
Replaced the side reflectors and side indicators with clear type. A tad costly, but finishes the look nicely IMO.