Hey
Im getting really high oil pressure on start up and when cold in my eunos, I believe my car has a real oil pressure gauge, add it reads at the top of the scale on start up. when its warm I get better oil pressures, but still generally high.
Im using Mobile 1 10w40 oil and its been in there around 5-6 months and maybe 2-3000 miles, so Im planning on changing the oil today.
I also get a tappety rattle on start up, maybe to do with the oil pressure?
Thanks guys
Ben
The oil pressure gauge will sit high at start up, it’s fine,the oil is fine just make sure it is part synth,and to get rid of the HTL noise give her and oil/engine flush before fresh oil and a filter,that should help
Mobil 1 is seriously expensive, I thoroughly recommend Asda own brand fully synthetic, every now and then it is on special offer for £9 or 10 for 5 litres, as good as pretty much anything else on the market meets or exceeds all the right specifications and certainly good enough for old MX5s like ours. Throwing Mobil 1 out after 6 months or 2-3000 miles is like burning £30 pound notes.
My oil pressure guage goes up to about 7 bar on cold-start up but settles down to about 3 bar (45psi) on tickover when warm.
Don`t worry about it, it will be fine 
Dr. Eunos
It needn’t be.
Asda often run promotions on Mobil 1 oils. A few weeks ago they were selling 0W-40 for £15 for 5L or £4 or 1L. Similar offers on the Mobil 1 semi-synths as well.
Costco is another cheap source for Mobil 1 if you are lucky enough to have a Costco membership card.
Eunos has gone to Iceland…wooops Asda
Normally I wouldnt dare look at Mobil1 on a shelf as I feel so poor when I read the price, but will look again soon
Cheers
Oil pressure sounds normal for cold. 10/40 semi synthetic is fine and I would use a genuine filter out of preference.
My tappets are fussy and only Mobil 1 0W40 seems to avoid any rattle on startup. Castrol Edge Sport of the same viscosity made them sound like two skeletons fighting in a biscuit tin. If you know someone with a Costco card, Mobil 1 is about £25 for 4 litres.
The oil pressure you see on cold startup should be the relief valve opening pressure.
I’ve just been given a load of 5/40 fully synthetic. Would this be okay for a Mk1 1.8i that covers a lot of miles in daily use?
First things first, NEVER use an oil flush, the flush will stay in the oil gallaries, so when you put fresh oil in, any protection that the new oil will offer will be killed off by the remaining flush!
If you really want to clean the crap out of the engine, Run a F/S for a few hundred miles and then change the oil for 10w 40 P/S.
Or even a good P/S grade has a high detergent level so just change it for a decent branded oil.
I use total quartz 7000 (10w 40) in mine, runs like a dream and when i took my cam cover off to spray it, it was like brand new!
Oh and as regards to this, i shouldn’t worry about it, its due to the hydaulic tappets, they collect and hold old oil, you can stop this by changing the oil for fresh every few thousand miles, the oil filter will be fine for 10,000 miles, its pricey i know, but the other alternative requires you to get yours hand dirty! There is a good “how to…” if you do a google search (my gut tells me its on nutz) it involves taking the cam cover off, camshafts out and removing each hydraulic tappet, taking the tappet apart (old dirty oils goes everywhere!) filling them with fresh clean oil and putting them back, but do them one by one so they are in the same order!
Not sure I agree with that. IF the engine has been treated like a baby from day 1 then ok, the engine interior will be fine. Most cars aren’t looked after like this though and after 75,000 + there will be all sorts of stuff in the oil system and the HLAs will be slow to oil up. My method to cure HLA clatter was to add Wynns flush to the oil and do what it says on the can. Then a sump full of cheaper oil for about 300 miles, then another oil change to …Mobil 1 fully synth. Never had a days problem since. A lot of people including MM who works exclusively on these cars does a flush at every oil change…so…
If it works for you, go ahead, i’m not stopping you.
You won’t have any problems, you are just wasting money at the end of the day, the flush doesn’t destroy the oil itself, it destroys any addictives and detergents in the oil i.e. That F/S your putting in, it works ok as the flush kills off any benefit of a F/S.
But what do i know?! It’s not like i have to deal with these sort of things day in day out.
Each to their own at the end of the day.
I took my advice from an engineer who I know personally and whose advice I trust. I don’t know you or what qualification you have to make statements as you did. I don’t have to cope with these things on a day to day basis as I’m retired, but I did
Castrol Magnatec for me, changed every year (5k).
We have used Mobil1 in the race cars, but then switched to Silkolene (Fuchs) XTR… Cheaper, and better than the Mobil1, we see much better temperature stablility, and never had an any of our 5 engines fail from oil issues this season…
I would do the change too, but out here in rural Queensland Mobil 1 is expensive, but Silkolene needs a bank loan, if you can find it
Damn, thats a shame… give me a while (ie membership) and I will see what I can do for you… fiancee works for fedex ;) just out of interest, what do you pay for 5 litres of XTR?? PM if you prefer, rather than going OT
I’m a bit out of touch with UK oils. XTR? Castrol? I can see Shell XTR but thats an ATF fluid
I think its now known as Fuchs XTR