I’m currently running team dynamic pro race wheels 1.2 which from measuring I believe to be 17 x 7j et45
I’ve just bought two spares on eBay that were advertised as the same offset, but after self measuring I’m coming up with either et37/et38 (depending on my eye level)
So my question is, would et37-et38 17x7j be ok to run on my car, and would it make any notable difference to handling of one axel was running et38 and the other et45? Or should I just write them off and sell on?
The wheels offset is the distance of the flange to the middle of the rim. Lets assume this is 45mm (standard is 54mm) but i think 45mm is ok to clear the fender on the nc.
If you lower the distance of the flange of the wheel to the wheel center this pushes the wheel further out. I think with a 215mm tyre 45mm is the furthest you can go without the wheel to have interference with the fender.
I’d check on the internet and see what offsets they have available and remeasure the wheels but if they are indeed 38mm id sell them on
Yea but if you use the ET 45 with spacer to match the potential 38…
if there is such spacer its going to be really thin, so i dont think it would have studs and you will have to use the standard hub and put that as a washer which is ■■■■
Its going to make life difficult fitting wheels making sure you know which wheel is what.
I don’t even think the ET 38 wheels wil fit without modifying the fender anyway. Imho more hassle than its worth
I did say it wasn’t to be recommended, but would technically be possible.
Notwithstanding that you might incur rubbing issues at +38, a 7mm spacer wouldn’t need it’s own studs, but preferably a hubcentric centre and very likely longer studs than standard (although I’ve never managed to source any). If I was somehow forced to go down this kind of route I’d probably look to use Eibach 10mm spacers and have them machined down to 7mm.
Might another option be to have the wheel centre of the +38s machined to remove 7mm and thereby turn them in to +45s? Needless to say you’d have to ensure there was enough “meat” on the wheel centre to allow this to be done safely.
Standard wheel offset is 55 on a 7" rim. Most aftermarket wheels will be 45 on 7.5" and 35 on 8".
40 is about as low as you can go on 7.5" if running 215 tyres. You would likely get away with 38 on a road tyre and certainly on a 205 there should be no issue. If they are only 7" there will be no issues.
38 seems a strange offset, have you actually measured them? You can still do it with the tyre on.
I wouldn’t be stressed to run that different offset front to rear.
interesting contris , heres my take, only recently I discovered and again I don’t really know how many actual mx5 Mk1 lovers realise this either, the original car was built and designed with zero scrub on the front steering susp set up, I came across an article and my understanding left me thinking it was originally designed without power steering, then i realised why i couldn’t get feel and had tried to weight the steering on my Jap Eunos by downsizing the steering wheel , but on purpose bought Revolution competition minilites at 6 x15 which from memory were 31ET so i gained 45 less 31 plus half an inch in wheel width say approx 12.7 mm so 26.7 per wheel, and its made so much difference to the feel and how the car drives around the front end… AND I’m back to the 350 mm s /wheel…w
Nick - I know you know your way round this kind of stuff, but an 8" rim with a +35 offset will surely stick out approx 30mm more than a 7" with +55 offset? Is there really that much potential clearance over standard? From memory my co-owned NC runs +45s and to accommodate a 225 tyre (which incidentally wasn’t a great idea performance-wise) we had to cut out part of the rear arches.
Your point about running the different offset wheels on different axles is of course a good one.
