Because the Minimum tyre width must be 215. Therefore the 205 width tyre is firstly too narrow for the size of the wheel and potentially quite dangerous as the tyre beads would not seat correctly on the wheel.
The provided chart is pretty much the standard on all sites. 
So under what criteria does it fail an mot ?
Having done an MOT testers course and indeed a Michelin Tyre course and “quite a few” other courses I would fail it.
You are potentially exceeding the design safety standards of the tyre. As previously stated. Also the design of the plys, side wall construction etc etc. Just because it looks okay does not mean it’s right.
You pays your money you takes your chance. Just my opinion.
Lastly, advice should be given for correct tyre fitment on the correct wheel. Safety is paramount at all times.
For starters 205mm is 8.07087" so in spec
it also depends a lot on the profile of the tyre in question
And Without being funny my first and only question was under what criteria are you going to fail the tyre combo in line with an MOT test as this was posted McTrucky that it should fail with this combo of rim and tyre size
So as you are now saying you have done a testers course i presume you are a fully qualified tester
so i also repeat my question to you
because it really bugs me when people on forums quote this and that and have no back up to what there saying as is the case with "it should fail an MOT test " and you also saying you would fail it also but under what criteria in the testers manual ?
its a simple enough question as you cant just fail stuff because you just dont like it or disagree with it
And as a small snippet of info
The Lamborghini Silhouette came with 195/50x15 tyres on 8 inch front wheels
The Lamborghini Countach LP400S came with 205/50x15 tyres on 8.5 inch front wheels
so you would also fail these production cars with there standard tyres
I and K below.
Direct copy.
Interpretation is another matter of course.
It would be my opinion that the tyres on the cars quoted above were specially made for those cars?
(I don’t know).
| Defect | Category |
|---|---|
| (a) A tyre: |
(i) load capacity or speed rating not in accordance with the minimum requirements
(ii) load capacity insufficient for axle presented weight|Major
Dangerous|
|(b) Tyres on the same axle or on twin wheels are different sizes|Major|
|© Tyres on the same axle of different structure|Major|
|(d) A tyre:
(i) with a cut in excess of the requirements deep enough to reach the ply or cords
(ii) with a lump, bulge or tear caused by separation or partial failure of its structure, including any lifting of the tread rubber or with cords exposed or damaged|Major
Dangerous|
|(e) Tyre tread depth not in accordance with the requirements|Dangerous|
|(f) A tyre fouling a part of the vehicle|Major|
|(g) A recut tyre fitted to a vehicle not permitted to be fitted with recut tyres|Major|
|(h) Tyre pressure monitoring system malfunctioning or obviously not working|Major|
|(i) A tyre not fitted in compliance with the manufacturer’s sidewall instructions|Major|
|(j) A tyre valve seriously damaged or misaligned likely to cause sudden deflation of the tyre|Dangerous|
|(k) A tyre incorrectly seated on the wheel rim|Major|
|(l) Tyre obviously under-inflated|Minor|
ETRTO Guidelines from late 2015 was the table presented above. For sure, you stretch or balloon to your hearts content, and maybe you will drive a million miles a year with no issue. Up to you. Just quoting the guidelines.
And do I always follow the rules… er… next question…?
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i … A tyre not fitted in compliance with the manufacturers sidewall instructions
This refers to directional arrows or inner or outer sidewall instructions
k… A tyre incorrectly seated on the wheel rim
This refers to the tyre bead not seated on the wheel rim correctly not the width of tyre
Also in the manual and take a note of the last sentence in the paragraph ,
"When assessing lumps or bulges in a radial ply tyre, care should be taken to distinguish between normal undulations in the carcass, resulting from manufacturing, and lumps or bulges caused by structural deterioration.
Take extra care with stretched tyres because they’re more prone to sidewall damage."
So in summary as a tester you have no fail criteria when it comes to stretched tyres as long as there in a safe condition and as we are talking 10mm here there not even worth an advisory or a mention as an mot tester and if you do fail a tyre for a stretch you may well be asked for an appeal form and nobody wants that as a tester
To be fair you have not answered my question so …er… next question nothing .
And as it was you that started the whole MOT thing off the least you could have done was answer my original question,
Problem is i know 100% that you cant fail the tyre and wheel combo in question
That is of course if you want to keep your testers license .
Finally from me.
I said I had done a course not a tester.
Thanks for the input and debate.
Tyre companies, tyre makers, tyre suppliers, wheel manufacturers tend to follow the guidelines (as per the table) in giving good suitable advise for the consumer.
What you actually do is a matter for your good self.
Need to keep it light, life is too short. 
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Fair enough i was done anyway
I was baiting a bit obviously as i mentioned earlier that i really dislike people saying for instance it will or should fail a test when it most definately should not thats what rattled me initially especially as i am a tester and have been for 22 yrs with a clean record of testing
But i will say one more thing which you have quite sensibly mentioned in your last post is that these are guidelines not an absolute
Keep safe .
I actually had to go an have a look at several tyres on this from several different manufactures as I had no recollection of ever seeing a max, min or even recommended rim width on any tyre.
I did confirm my recollection in that there is no width data on any tyre that I have apart from 1 Chinese budget tyre which has a tiny marking Rim 7J. It does not however say in anyway that that is the only permissible rim width. All tyres state the diameter of the rim and maximum pressure and loads. Some even say that no more than 40 PSI must be used to seat the bead, which for anyone who has fitted run flats or Michelin slicks for that matter know than is just never going to happen.
Even if there was a provision in the MOT, to fail the tyre on width ratios, it would require the tester to start measuring rim widths. But the another issue is that there are some tyres with a reverse bead design which permits, by design, rim widths that fall well outside of ETRTO guidelines.
Mine was bought with what I now know are 16” mini wheels. I have 205/50/16” RS3s (Uniroyal) and cannot fault them! Just make sure you fit the mini wheel nuts also, that is a must!
Also, stated tyre sizes are not exactly accurate, so I can understand that guidelines would be just that, guidelines.
On my other car I have 245 Michelin PS4 for daily duties, and 235 Yokohama ADO8R track day rubber. The Yokos are significantly wider than the Michelins despite the sidewall sizing suggesting the opposite.
thanks for the info 
you’re absolutely right of course about getting a wheel with same dimensions.
i did not know the brake stuff. very interesting. this is why i like this forum.
i always wanna learn more about me car. 
thanks for link!
that is a good price. still weighing up the options. 
oh it’s cracked alright. going in the bin.
Unusual for an OEM wheel to crack, it would take quite an impact against a kerb to do that, more likely it would scuff or bend slightly . If you think it was damaged while it was on the car, suggest you check the lower suspension arms and joints for damage as if it was cracked by an impact there might be damage to those as well.
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interesting. not according to the mot from april. it sounds like that might have happened to it when they were attached to a MK2. anyways, i got me replacement.
That, good news, and now the weather is just right for drive out for some exercise ! :
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