Apart from the obvious answer . . . . can anyone provide a clear diagram or pictures for the best jacking points for a Mk1. It seems like a basic question, but my searches haven’t found anything that is very clear.
Cheers.
Apart from the obvious answer . . . . can anyone provide a clear diagram or pictures for the best jacking points for a Mk1. It seems like a basic question, but my searches haven’t found anything that is very clear.
Cheers.
http://www.metzair.com/downloads/Raise_Your_Miata.pdf
This is helpful; I know some people will put the car on 4 axle stands. I’ve done it, but its none too clever, really.
From the original factory manual;
I think it is worth a reminder that stands should always be used for safety.
Never rely on just a jack!
I wouldn’t use the sills on an old mx5, could be the new crumple zone. (see what I did there?)
I have old Mk 1,s and I jack up with a trolly jack at the jacking point on the sills i.e between the drain holes. I use a strip of wood as a protector but you dont have to. That said I guess if the sills are rotten it may not be good. Do not jack up on the floor/chassis rails they will just crush. If you have ramps you can drive up on them then get a jack under the subframes. You can always use planks of would as I do to get it high enough to make jack access easier.
hey Phil that’s pretty cool having colour coded ramps.
Hi Howard,
Yes got to agree that I’d be very careful using the original jacking points as they are known rust areas. I’d spend some time finding a sound area on the subrame mounting points or the wishbone pivot points which you can reach with your jack and then mark them with a quick squirt from a white paint spray can for next time.
There are several points under the car that are usually solid where the subrames and wishbones bolt, and a central point front and rear that will be sound. The central points are on the front subframe, central at the rear of the engine bay, and the rear one is under the diff case.
Unfortunately they are difficult to get to on first lift so wheel ramps are a good way to go, then jack and put stands in after if you need the wheel free.
If you’ve not got them you can often pick up good ramps for a fiver at car boots etc as many folk don’t service their cars these days and the traditional diy ramps are too steep for modern low plastic bodywork. Then get a pair of ramp extenders from Machine Mart etc and even our low cars go up a doddle. Take your time, get out and check when part way, but there’s none of the old slipping and pushed-forward ramps using the extenders as the angle is much gentler.
Thanks very much for all the good advice!