- My model of MX-5 is: ND2 RF 1.5
- I’m based near: Hampshire
- I’m looking for technical help or recommendations on: NC track car
I got myself a 1.5 ND2 RF earlier in the year as a normal road car. I’ve done a couple of track days and have been amazed how good it is without changing anything at all except setting up the geometry and lowering the seat so I can keep the roof up while wearing a helmet. The second track day was my first time at Cadwell, which was huge fun, but I constantly had it in my mind that it could get expensive if I fall off the track. I reckon I was having more fun in the 1.5 MX5 than my old FD RX7.
So I’m thinking about getting an older NC predominantly for track days. I’ve done a bit of research and it seems the best starting point will be an NC 3.5 2.0 with a soft top. I understand all the 2.0s have LSDs and all the NC 3.5s have the improved engine internals? Do I want a 5 or 6 speed gearbox? I’d change these parts in this order:
- Geometry
- Pads and fluid
- Coilovers (Meister R club sports?) and geometry
- Tyres (and wheels?)
- Rollbar, seat and harness
Is there much weight saving that can be had without going to extremes?
Any comments or suggestions will be gratefully received 
I know this is slightly off topic but, what seat rails did you go for in your ND?
I only just fit in mine without a helmet so no chance with!
Paco motorsports. Once fitted, you’ll need to use tools if you need to adjust the seat forwards / backwards. They shipped really fast from the US
The instructions say to leave one nut not fully tightened (it uses a nyloc), which means you can still slide them into position before tightening the other bolts. I didn’t like this, so I made a small hole in the seat trim (it’s totally hidden once in the car), which means I can tighten all bolts once I’ve got it in the right place.
I’ve only done the driver’s seat. I prefer the lower position even not taking into account making room for my helmet.
The cheapest low mileage 2.0 with no serious rust is all you will need.
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The cheapest low mileage 2.0 with no serious rust is all you will need.
Glad you said that - I’ve just been looking at 2009 onwards 3.5 NCs, and the prices are quite a bit higher than I’d expected!
I’d look for a rust-free 2.0 Option Pack. It does without the options that are dead weight, like air conditioning and leather seats, but has the 2.0 and limited slip differential. It will only have a 5-speed gearbox, but I don’t think that matters. You give up the slightly closer ratios but get a lighter, smoother shifting gearbox.
Weight is the enemy of speed and as far as I know, the 2.0 Option Pack is the lightest version of the 2.0 to have the LSD.
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Does a hardtop give better handling? More rigid, better aero dynamics. .I guess that’s very much track dependant.
The weight penalty there is about 50kg vs the soft top.
The 3.5 is cool with it’s forged crankshaft but unless you plan on going for a turbo charger the NC1 engine will be fine.
The standard sport wheels are around 7.7kgs, so without spending a lot of money you’re not going to gain anything there.
You might find this of interest: http://www.duratecnc.co.uk/?p=369
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Have a look at BOFI racing on You Tube, they have just started an NC upgrade programme on their latest NC purchase. Should be right up your street.
A soft top gives you better options for roll bars.
Thanks for all the tips so far!
I’m assuming the hard top is non-structural and offers no additional rigidity, so will probably go for the soft top for the weight saving and more options on roll bars.
I’m not expecting to do anything significant to the engine.
Most of the ‘option pack’ models I’m seeing listed claim to have climate control. Does that mean they have air con? I’m not really sure what climate control means.
@DuratecNC Interesting article - thanks! I suspect how much I end up paying for the car (before changing anything) all depends on how realistic it is a to find a cheap one that is relatively rust free. I hate owning cars where I have to keep chasing problems with rust, although it will be garaged nearly all the time once I have it.
I’ll watch BOFI racing on YouTube - seems very timely - thank you!
Climate Control is a fully automated form of Air Con. Air Con is either on or off. With Climate Control you set a specific temperature and the system will automatically try to maintain that temperature.
Avoid aircon if it’s a track car. I rarely used it on my road car.
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The NC1 Option Pack definitely dies not have climate control. The “option pack” added to the base car a Torsen LSD, leather wrapped steering wheel and leather shift boot. That was it. Later years might have added climate control as standard equipment.
Get yourself to Snetterton at the end of October to the Mx5 day with Mazda on track
Speak to everyone and make your own mind up…
For the record the ND is a far better car once sorted
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What’s the MX5 day? I’ve tried looking at various calendars for snetterton, but can’t see anything
For the record the ND is a far better car once sorted
Yeah, I do keep wondering about just sticking with my ND, but I love it as a road car as it is. I’ve looked at a few NCs now. I was astonished by the amount of rust underneath, but then I’m quite new to the world of MX5s!
No NCs had Torsens, all the 2.0 had LSDs, no matter what option or spec.
Sorry, you’re right, it was a cone type, not a Torsen. All 2.0s for the UK and Australian (and I think European) markets got the LSD but the Japanese and North American markets only got the LSD with the 6 speed. So there may be some Japanese standard trim imports floating around with a 2.0 and no LSD.
Just a quick update… I looked at several cheap NCs and they were all disappointingly rusty underneath, or covered in thick fresh underseal, which puts me off straight away. I’ve done some more track days in my ND, so I’m going to swap my 1.5 ND2 for a 2.0 ND2 and use that.
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