Why??? … You sure? … obvious! … it’s because of the M25, No Hard Shoulders and the New Highway Code changes 
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It’s all subjective. We had a lady years ago in Phoenix Fives who had 17’s on her MK1. You would need to go 215 35 19 whick would give you a negligible increase in diameter over a 215 45 17 and a slight one over the standard 205. The down sides would be finding a wheel that would fit. Most 19’s are going to be wide and the wrong offset. The geometry of the car is not going to change at all but unless the wheels were made of unobtainium they are going to be heavy and the sidewall is going to transmit all the high frequency bumps and bend pretty quickly u less you can avoid the potholes.
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Btw assuming you want to drive the car on roads (and not farmland) if you are serious about increasing the wheel diameter you need to reduce the tyre wall in order to have something fit on the car. If such tyre exist that will give a reasonable and comparable tyre diameter a few things will happen.
Overall suspension will firm up - tyre is part of the suspension spring stiffness
Change (reduction) in unsprung mass = good
Reduced lateral tyre deflection = improvement in handling feedback
Bent wheels. If you hit a pothole you will be sending your wheels for straitening
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Now that one in the middle would be great to pop down to Asda in. I’d find the newest most expensive car to park alongside just for the annoyance factor.
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I somewhat secretly dig that as well 
that don’t look half bad… but there’s not a lot of tyre wall left on that package.
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Ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha 
Made my day Ha ha ha ha. How true…
My laughter is directed at the reply and the massive wheeled vehicles,
Reminds me of an incident way back with a complete nutter I visited in Devon, There was a lovely pub about 4 miles away He owned a huge 4x4 and decided to impress me with his off road skills, which took us the entire 4 miles “ Off road “. It was great until to accomplish his journey he had to go through farm yards and back gardens. Washing lines went flying, It was scary But yes. He did go off road for the entire journey …. The police arrived at 7 o’clock…he spent most of the following week replacing the fence panels as part of his punishment of 80 hours of work in the community,
As you may know, There is quite a lot of talking about the rights and wrongs of lowering cars on these threads, , mainly because of the “adverse effects on suspension components” Etc… , I am 80 now and being a petrol head all my driving years. I have had many many cars Many of which were lowered…I never experienced a single adverse effects on doing so on any of them, Maybe I was just “ lucky “ or perhaps I hadn’t done enough mileage in each car I owned to witness any damage …
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Yes, fully understood. But I hardly ever use my MX5 ( how sad is that eh ) so the points you made would hardly impact upon my short journeys. I look mostly for the cosmetic appearance Not worried about the possible little things concerning the downside of the comfort Etc Etc, But thank you very much for your advices, Bless you 
One point missing is aesthetic which is obviously non engineering but a fact most people spend money on LoL
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Interesting, well written and reasoned post. Thank-you.
Just out of interest, what ride height is the sports suspension? Is this Mazda’s own sports setup?
Fascinating thread. I came to (very recent) MX-5 ownership in the expectation that lowering the car is almost mandatory. Turns out if I took 30mm, or even 10mm, off the ride height I’d need to rework a large part of the drive as two-up it almost bottoms out on stock. My drive is basically two gravel filled tyre channels with a grassy hump strip up the middle, the joys of rural life, eh?
I agree the lowered stance is more pleasing on the eye, looks sleeker and, imo, more aggressive, but I’m staying ‘As is’ ufn. So far, my driving hasn’t tested the limits of the stock handling and as a ‘tractor driver’ it isn’t likely to!
Just to add my thoughts on the matter, in video format… 
Mazda MX5 BBR Super 200 - MeisterR Zeta CRD Coilovers & Chassis Brace Upgrades (plus channel update)
Just my two cents on that video mate.
Nicely produced 
If you intend keeping the car do get a cybul roll bar. If you order a GB fabrications one it will take ages and there is considerable trim cutting in comparison.
Speaking from personal opinion Meister (Tein and HSD) products are on the cheap side of things hence why I think are popular. Honestly longevity of Meister stuff should be something to consider especially when looking at broken/corroded springs in an mx5 that had 1.5year old meister Zeta CRD. It maybe a one off but I do wonder what to say when a company suggests using lanoguard or buy their own coating and treat your suspension with rustproofing coating…
Anyhow If I were to decide changing the suspension in my car as originally said at the very start ask yourself what I want the car to do and where would I use it.
Then look at what options you have.
If you want more or less stock comfortable sporty suspension, just go with well proven extremely good quality suspension such as the likes of Koni or Bilstein dampers. In regards to springs go with the recommended OEM quality springs at the length the dampers are built to work on. Lowered springs are stiffer and simply doesn’t work in a suspension unless matched with the correct dampers.
If you want adjustable suspension I would consider instead BC racing, Ohlins, Xida (wish KW Racing did something for the MX5).
Since writing the article I am tracking my car a lot and I personally I have gone for Ohlins. Note I also use Motul RBF 600 brake fluid, upgraded braided brake hoses, brembo pads for road and winmax w5 pads for track (yes still stock calipers and stock antiroll bars). I have underbody braces, Ultra Racing Front Upper Brace, a cybul roll bar but probably the most important is a proper alignment, tyres and tyre pressures.
Does it work? hell yea.
Thanks for watching & the comments George.
I’m not sure exactly my plans for the MX5 because I’m fortunate enough to have another weekend toy, so I went for something adjustable in case I do eventually go on track. I did a bit of research last year before upgrading, but hadn’t come across the rust issue until now. If that happens, at least I can make a ‘don’t get MeisterR coilovers’ video in a couple of years’ time
All I can say is I’ve now got a brilliantly handling car with more than acceptable comfort, and just need to raise the ride height when I get chance.
My channel is mainly about getting other people on who are the experts on their own car, I’d be happy to feature yours if you’re interested
Thanks for the roll bar tip, wil be looking into that if I decide to track it.
You need to link your throttle application with the reduction of steering angle as you exit the corner, otherwise, and with you hand position, you look rather out of control, rather than drifting. Either that, or your suspension set-up is not what you think it is.
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