£5k to spend on Mk2.5 upgrades

General Discussion Forums Readers Rides
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Hi

I have had my Crystal Blue NBFL for 8 months, used daily and am toying with swapping it for a new ND or spending some money on it and keeping it for another year, minimum.

Apart from a second hand airbox I drilled for some induction noise (which I swapped out again as novelty wore off), it is stock.

Chassis rails and arches, sills etc are good for a few years (had it independently inspected when I bought it).

I have up to £5k to spend on upgrades that will enhance performance and handling, not fussed about cosmetics other than perhaps swapping out some of the orange reflectors for white/smoked.

The car has done 37,000 miles, 3,000 in my ownership. It’s a 1.8 svt sport reg October 2001 with matching hardtop.

Mazda dealer FSH inc cambelt etc, one previous owner and very clean. Big brakes plenty of life in them.

Colour is not my first choice, but is growing on me. 

If I keep it, I’m thinking Cobalt or MX5 parts back box; lowering springs (Mazda dealer fit?); full geo alignment for starters. Then something to up the throttle response and torque.

I have no technical ability so these would not be DIY.

How would you spend my £5k budget?

Paul

 

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I suggest the following as an owner of an identical car except 2002 model.

TBH, chucking 5k at “our” 5’s would need to be reversible & recoverable on resale.

I’d do costings on something along the lines of (the fairly common) JRC supercharger and since we have the Big Brake system…you already have a good base to develop.

They are big bucks new…but you might find one used.

They handle 180/190 bhp + pretty well with  upgrading of at least the front discs & pads maybe…

Some will say turbo but each their own. The only way you really get outstanding power hikes with these engines is forced induction.

Clearly. simple disciplines like compression checks adviseable…low miles is no g’tee the mill is ready to take the additional stresses.  

Crucially, the shocks/springs/ droplinks/ calipers etc…all your running gear…needs to be tip top.

The chassis needs to “be quicker” than the engine for safety before you add 40/50% more BHP.

Yes, laser alignment and top dog rubber is a must. 

I doubt all that would come under 5k though…unless you source used bits… from a trusted source and got lucky…or very lucky indeed.

 

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The car looks tidy and I quite like the colour. Can’t help much on mods which is really a personal thing but I’m sure others will make some suggestions. The change to clear indicator lens and reflectors is a very small change but they do make the car look better in my opinion. In addition I would opt for some chrome style bars and a more effective wind blocker. Enjoy your MX5.

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thanks for replies - seems we three have fairly rare colours 

 

@scottishfiver - I did consider forced-induction but wondered if that would “spoil” rather than enhance what the mx-5 is all about. I had a Honda S2000 a few years ago, that had plenty of power but in all honesty, as far as fun factor goes, only marginal over the 5.

 

@AndrewR - is your exhaust much louder than stock? I’m after a bit or a rasp but nothing to draw attention to me.

 

 

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My exhaust is louder than stock but sounds lovely just like a sports car should. It was made and fitted in a garage in Leeds and the exhaust is made by Longlife. The garage is an independent but I believe has a franchise to sell and fit their products.

The range offered all in stainless steel in terms of sound was stock/mid-sport/full sport. I chose mid sport and the sound is just right but not too noisy. They explained that the full sport is very noisy and you can’t drive anywhere without everyone hearing it and I didn’t want that.

On mine you can hear the difference on start up and when pushed is similar to the old Talbot sunbeam lotus or lotus Cortina from years ago.

I opted for dual exit tailpipes like the NC but bigger bore. There are several exhaust tips to choose from.

Fitted in 2011 and I’ve been delighted with it from day one. There are several posts on U Tube if you search to get an idea of the make and sound so worth a search to see if it meets your needs.

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Sounds just what I’m after, I’ll do some research

 

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Ah, the wonderful Honda 2000… “pardon me while I go a bit mental at 6k?”

You’d find in an SC’d car like ours you’d be dispensing with overtaking etc using 5th instead of third, and 6th instead of 4th. Relatativley speaking, brute torque we don’t have as standard.

Different but very benign in traffic. Very driveable…until you poke it. I’ve driven an SC’d Mk2.5 ( I think around 195bhp) and it was a revelation…nor in my view did it take away from the car…it gave it the power it deserved. Then there was the acceptable level of Supermarine howl higher up the rev range  Don’t forget, Mazda did a limited run of factory turbos. Mildly tuned though… 

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Ah yes, the moment the VTEC kicked in never failed to put a smile on my face! And as for redlining at 9000rpm, quite something.
The reactions from unsuspecting passengers were priceless (my wife hated the noise)…

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A mk1 … where’s my coat Cool

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Frankly - the cost of an ND far exceeds the present value o your car, and £5K won’t either. I wouldn’t touch an ND with a barge pole , thought some will disagree with me on that. When insurers realise the cost potential of claims for existing policies, the cost will increase dramatically. - Few examples so far, but every ND driven may at some point run into this.The gear box and active bonnet are the main problems. Time will tell on the rest.

The NBFL is IMHO the best car of it’s type Mazda ever produced, though again, others will disagree, it’s the nature of being one of 7,000+ members. Rust prevention on any model is almost impossible, sills and front chassis rails for instance will rust from the inside out, not other ways.

Your £5K will pay for adequate insurance, road tax and petrol and running costs for the next three years, at best. Never spend cash on improvements, if it’s oomph you are missing, use the rev counter to drive by, and keep your revs in any gear above 5,500 rpm, as that’s where the torque and horse power curves start to run closer, but don’t go above 7,000 or you’ll hit redline at 7,.200 rpm. (it feels like the engines shot.) Our minds are coloured by previous cars we’ve owned, and this is not one of them. Always shift down a cog or two, if you need instant Umph.

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Thinking similar - but with a track bias.

i’m thinking TR Lane roll bar, Meister R suspension, red stuff brakes (bog standard calipers and discs as I also have the big brake set-up and never found them wanting on track).

Maybe new track rods and drop links to make sure it’s all good before the suspension is run in and then a full 3D alignment and corner weighting.

Already running Kumho Ecsta rubber which is just about perfect for me.

just so you know, I’m no boy racer - already past my half century, but since I found the fun of trackdays then that’s why I’m looking at relevant upgrades. Not interested at engine mods (just had new cam belt, waterpump etc) as I need to be able to drive to tracks and back and don’t want to grenade the engine with a turbo or supercharger and it’s never felt “slow” on track as it’s the corners I enjoy - not the straights !!  

Each to their own and good luck getting the car as you want it 

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May need to spend the first £900 repairing the front chassis rails.
Check them carefully.

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Thanks all.

Decided on exhaust, lowering springs and plenty of petrol as a starting point!

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Hi, I’ve got a '56 NC with 33K on the clock, and I regret selling my '02 2.5 sport. Standard, with chain cam, except lowered sports suspension with Bilsteins, induction filter, twin exit sports exhaust, sounds great, but most importantly RX7 anti roll bars which together with the lowering transforms the ride, but no loss of ride comfort. Most recent MOT on 2.5 said front chassis legs would probably need doing soon, £600 a side, and sills, £300 a side. Could see £2K going out the window, never to be recovered.
We ought to consider an exchange?

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It’d cost you a few quid, David 

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I always think you have to take a more practical view of car ownership. Cars cost money. Yes, there are people that buy vehicles that cost £500 drive them till they fail, throw them away and buy another. To them the car is not the important thing though. Other people, and there are many millions of them out there, chose to spend a monthly amount on “hiring” a car because it’s new and “won’t go wrong” and cost them money. However for this benifit of a couple on months of new car smell and having the latest Reg on the drive but probably driving a car they will spend hours sat in “up grading to smart motorway” queues they are spending around £250 to £300 a month over 3 years. 

If you take the view that cars cost money, that you like your MX-5 because you actually enjoy driving it rather than worrying if your latest German keyless acquisition is going to be there in the morning. Then the down payment, monthly hire and balloon payment at the end suddenly makes the cost of replacement sills, seat retrims, the entire chrome collection from. MX-5 Parts and new tyres for each day of the week look pretty good value. 

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One thing to consider about a twin exhaust; you might not like the sound. It requires the bumper to be cut. Most fitters seem to make a complete hash of cutting the extra outlet, and you will be forever bothered by the jagged edges. And you end up hating the sound, but its not so easy to go back to OE, because now you have to replace the entire rear facia as well. Keeping to a single exit exhaust will at least give you the option of changing your mind.

I changed the rear bumper cover recently on my 96. The original I had carefully crafted the extra outlet, and had it perfect. But that bumper had always suffered poor paint adhesion, due to an history bump on it, and the paint just fell off (the paint always fell off at the same spot). I had a spare bumper that had been already trimmed by someone else for a twin exit. I think he must have used a woodsaw, as its so jagged. And the MX5parts twin exit I have is horrible, can’t wait to get shot of it. I forgot to mention that because a twin exit was never intended by Mazda, depending on how its fitted, you might end up with off clonks, especially when cold.



As for FI, whatever form, every example I have come into contact with, has required extra maintenance, always fixing something that has gone wrong. When the factory Mazdaspeed turbo NB-FL was launched, I recall all the enthusiasts complaining why it was such low boost. The engine used in those cars was basically a different engine to other NB-FL engines. It wasn’t a VVT for a start, it had different pistons, beefed up crank etc. Mazda expended a lot of effort ensuring these cars were as reliable as the regular cars. ie. the implication was the bolt on kits could not offer the level of reliability expected by Mazda (9000 miles between oil changes etc). FI is fine, because hundreds of owners benefit from it, but it must surely change how you run the car, and becoming more involved in spannering yourself.

Lowering springs only. The issue with fitting lowering springs only to OE shocks is now the shock is partially compressed. It won’t be working particularly efficiently, potentially the service life is shortened. A lowering spring is, by definition, firmer than stock. And then you have considerations of progressive versus non-progressive springs. And you’ve paid the same labour to fit those as you would complete shock-spring units.

With £5k, I would:

1. Racing Beat Racing Beat Header, Racing Beat Power Pulse Single Tip, Racing Beat connecting pipe; that little lot will come to £1000. I consider the Racing Beat kit to be the best quality out there. In 2000, I had the good fortune to drop in Racing Beat’s Anaheim facility. Anyone on holiday to California Disney, should do so. They love visitors, and have a lot of cool stuff going on. I was given the tour, saw the founder’s Bonneville salt racer RX7 Convertible (and it wasn’t a factory convertible; the owner built his own around a spacefame chassis), the prototype NB-FL body kit RB was working on (with Mazda). I met the guys there who made the headers, and the old boy who’s job was to assemble and test every single one of their plug wires. And I got a free shirt and hat as part of the tour. £100 or so to get fitted. Cobalt and MX5parts exhausts are NOT top quality.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uu_QeHrKY1E

 

  1. Autoexe Cold Side Induction(Rev9). In the end, its just a K&N kit, but has a beautiful carbon fibre shroud, and moves the intake away from the exhaust, and shortens the intake tract, making the throttle a lot more responsive. Probably thick end of £500 delivered. £50 to get someone to fit it for you.

 

  1. Upgrade the cooling probably a good idea. Good quality branded aluminium radiator is £400. Beware of cheap Chinese efforts.I would recommend changing to a waterless coolant (Evans). Coolant change is £100, £100 to fit the radiator

 

  1. Suspension: Contentious. If I had the budget, I’d go for a Tein Flex-Z kit, with the EDFC option, because who wouldn’t like control of shock settings from the dash. And its Japanese quality.

    https://uk.tein.com/product/flex_z.html



That’s another £1000 gone with the EDFC stepper motors. £400 to fit? Racing Beat Europe are a Tein dealer.

Anti-roll bars; avoid the tubular bars, as they can get drivers into trouble (know of a police driver who cornered so hard with these things, that the bead came off the rim without warning, and the car ended in a ditch). One thing to be aware of; the front ARB mounts on the NB can be ripped by aftermarket bars, hence RB supply an additional reinforced mounting fit. I would probably pass on the upgraded bars.

Next would be wheels and tyres, and £100 or so spent on a proper alignment. And at the end of the day, you’ll will have a very nicely set up reliable MX5. But note, you will never see the money spent on the upgrades back.

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Much to ponder even before that last post from saz9961. Thanks for comprehensive replies all.

Now to whom do I give the keys and write out a cheque for ££££s to get all that done?

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[quote=pmba]
Much to ponder even before that last post from saz9961. Thanks for comprehensive replies all.

Now to whom do I give the keys and write out a cheque for ££££s to get all that done?

Hello pmba

Please give your location then I am sure advice as to where you take your car & your

cheque book will be forthcoming.

Regards

Keith