- My model of MX-5 is: __NBFL
- I’m based near: __Cambs/West Mids
- I’m looking for technical help or recommendations on: _Body repair/Flitch Panels
I’m wondering how easy a job it is to get done. Are replacement panels available, the cost etc. It’s not a job I’ve seen mentioned anywhere so far, 'presuming it’s not that common?
Is that both sides + the front rails, going to be costly?
Never seen a rotter like that posted up, what’s the rest of the car like, worth saving?
Blimey…just…blimey.
I’ve dealt with & seen rotten NBs but that, I fear, maybe has gone a bit too far.
But then that is what folk said of both mine.
I think it’s worth saving but I’m no expert whatsoever. The rails havn’t gone through yet, I think the flitch panels have gone as it was left with the bonnet open and the usual build up of leaves and mud settled there but it also looks like its been around a field a few times as there’s traces of mud inside the engine bay in some places. Will try grab some more pics of the suspension later.
…the sills have been done already, don’t look too bad, some bubbling over the rear arches.
1 Like
I fear a small tap with a toffee hammer 
will see massive holes all around that front end 
1 Like
That looks like an awful lot of work,
Plenty of hidden extras, waiting to catch you………
2 Likes
The rails survived initial tapping but I’m sure I could get through with a bigger hammer 
1 Like
I’m guessing you are asking is it worth buying as a project as it’s not yours?
Well unless it’s being given away and then you do the work then anything is possible.
If you are getting the work done by someone it’s going to be a very expensive fix up if they even take it on. The panels you originally asked about I guess will need to be fabricated to sort the front half of the car, definitely plus front rails.
Turning to the rear end, sills, arches if they are bubbling now will definitely need work.
Does it run?
1 Like
The problem with hitting it with a hammer yourself is that you yourself dont want to make another hole, and may be too gentle. Somebody who is more objective (less invested in the car) needs to do it for you. I suggest you take it to an expert in bodywork repairs to discover what can be done to replace/restore the metal without breaking the bank.
I am sorry that this is not pleasant news; but it is true.
David
1 Like
I recall from the photos that were posted recently, that the painted exterior looks superb, but I dont think we were told about the mechanics, apart from the disconnected power steering and dodgy discs. I definitely think a Miata expert is needed to evaluate the car in person.
1 Like
I saved mine including doing the chassis rails, sills, rear arches which included requiring a new osr wing, beware slight rust bubbling on wing is tip of the proverbial iceberg. It cost a horrendous amount, many times the cars worth but absolutley worth it as the smiles per mile are priceless. Took it to MX-5 restorer in Pevensy, I am reliably informed cheaper options are available.
Next job is tackling the suspension and front wings. Then on to the electrics replacing all the sensors. With luck I will get that all done before I retire in a couple of years when I hope to drive her round the world, assuming there is anyof it left to drive around of course.
Seen the other thread now, it does look in decent condition from up top and it works engine wise👍
Saving it from the scrap heap is still going to be expensive unless you have the skills to do it.
I’ve always wanted to have a go at something like this, probably not quite as far gone though. That ship has sailed now, I’m in need of fettling myself 
1 Like
Front chassis rails may well be rotting from the inside out.
They are double skinned.
That’s what they do.
Like mine were.
Dangerous.
Zero crash integrity and the engine was beginning to flex around on the mounts.
I’d not drive it until you get a report on front accident crumple zone protection.
They need attacked with vigour with a B-F-Off. 
ball-peen hammer to get the truth out them.
All in all budget around 4k to 6k for a pukka resto job.
Or, a lot less to just keep it MOT legal, couple of summers, then flip it or scrqp.
They are nice in the end though!
£4,700 later including alloys & SS exhaust.
Wife’s decision, not mine.
5 Likes
I own it and it seems to run well, 80k miles. It does have it’s good points, you just can’t see them for the rust. I looked all over and couldn’t find any MX5’s for free, even complete wrecks fetch £600 ish.
These days the expensive & very stealable CATs, 6 speed boxes, £400.00 LSD’s and SVT engines are often worth more stripped than complete cars. Sad but true.
1 Like
I’ve always been a rubbish welder, just one of those things, 'gave up trying to learn ages ago, like paint spraying. Have budgeted for work for MOT, (hopefully enough), 'will take it from there. Problem at the moment is getting my oversize carcass under the car to have a good look at the floor and the chassis.
Same with a lot of classic cars and bikes now, probably down to eBay and how easy it is to advertise parts to the entire planet. Remember trying to find parts and bargain cars before the internet?
Try Not to Get Disheartened re Restoring Your NB 
Because “Once You Fall in Love” 
with an MX-5
“It Could Be Forever”
Have you given him/her a name yet 
Because that’s what most of us grumpy, sad addicts do 
1 Like
For a name, how about “RUSTY” 
2 Likes