Thanks for moving this admin, I did look for a newbie section but didn’t spot it.
Hi, newbie here, I’m 62 and this is my first ever sports car! I’ve bought a 2005 NB FL rust bucket in the hope of getting it through it’s next MOT and enjoying it over the next few years. It has been a trackday car with a youngish owner for the last couple of years and spent most of it’s time in a barn and it shows. I’m based in Cambridge but spend a lot of time in the West Midlands due to family commitments will be looking for a welder with MX5 experience.
I hope you’ll all bear with me and any occasional daft question!
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You’re Very Welcome Drewski1 
From [65 yrs this month] NB 2.5 1.8 Icon [Second Owner since 2007]
Yep…‘Corrosion’ Will Be an MOT Issue so Focus on This as Priority 
Ask as many Daft Questions as you wish
'cos Being a Bit Daft is a Must for a Number of Owners of Earlier Models of the MX-5
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Welcome to the world of MX-5ing. Enjoy your new ride and remember…top down as often as possible 
Cheers,
Guy
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Welcome, Drewski! From this angle your new car looks terrific. 
David
Agreed, definitely the best angle looks wise. The underneath angle is not so good.
First job will be the brakes, looks like, as the car was standing for some time, the discs have rotted. I discovered what a “flitch” is this week and that will be the next job, if I can find somewhere to do the welding that is.
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Just been out for my first run and, after driving a 2 litre auto diesel, very quiet estate car, it was quite interesting. The previous owner disconnected the power steering for “better drifting” but I’m curious if it will work after reconnecting the drive belt 
Interesting. What are your impressions of the car without power assisted steering drewski?
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It’s not easy as I’ve never driven one with PS. It might be better on the track but I would prefer to have it just for moving the car in tight spaces if nothing else. I’m used to power steering though so it’s going to feel heavy.
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Thanks drewski, good to read your comments.
There is a train of thought that suggests the unassisted steering ought to give more feedback through the steering wheel during road driving but at the expense of weight at parking speeds.
Would you say that the steering still feels heavy at driving speeds or just low speed stuff?
Cheers,
Guy
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Not a problem once you’re moving Guy. Once I get the belt back on, I can tell you which I prefer. 'Pretty sure you’ll always get a better feel for road surface, wet conditions etc with light or zero power steering, on any car, this is the first car I’ve had where I’ve even thought about it but I drove an old VW LT Luton Van for a while that was a real pain without PS.
Hello Drewski,
Welcome to the gang, and don’t be afraid to ask any questions you need answers to were here to help!
I bought my MK2 in 2018 aged 60 and have been on a pleasent journey to get it to my standard!
Enjoy and pace yourself.
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Hi Again
Bulitt has moved into the Renovate & Restore Category over the years and has had her Arches & Sills replaced/rewelded since 2019…She’s still a Work in Progress 
If you mention your Location a Poster maybe able to refer you to a welding specialist near you…or you may plan to do the work yourself…Loads of Advice/Guidance on this site 
Meanwhile…Have Fun with your Labour of Love whilst you’ve got an MOT 
Hi. I recognise your car. You were in front of me at Elvington in 2021 
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Just reading a 2022 review of the MK2 with PS, quote;
“The steering is light, but gives a strong amount of feedback as to what the front tyres are doing. It’s accurate, too, and compliments the car’s darting agility thanks to its little-more-than-a-tonne kerb weight.”
Hello Drewski,
Welcome to the forum and to top down motoring all year round !
The West Midlands is a big area, but I had my NBFL rear sills expertly repaired a few years ago by JMS Vehicle Body Solutions, Arthur Street Redditch 01527 585628. They seem to do a lot of classic vehicle work which is a good sign as they will know how to replace rusty bits where there is no readily available repair panel. They were respraying a Triumph Stag that had been stripped down to a bodyshell when I took my car in.
If you are planning to take your car in for repair, suggest you have a good look round for other areas of rust besides what look to be areas behind the left and right headlamps: That “flitch plate” area adjoins the front chassis longitudinals which are a known area for corrosion leading to MoT failure, the sills at the rear rust because the drain holes just inboard of the seat belt upper anchorage towers get blocked with dirt and water collects in the sill. You can can check with a trombone cleaning brush, about £5 on e-Bay, push it gently down the hole and it should come out of the floor inboard of the sill. If it does not, pour some water in with a funnel and gently agitate with the brush until the gunge drips out. You can check for general corrosion in the sill area by trying to flex the rear wheel arch flanges, particularly down where they curve into the sill. If the flange flexes a lot it is probably badly corroded. The battery compartment under the rear floor is another area to check as sometimes battery acid vapour collects there.
With regard to the power steering, check that the pump pulley rotates freely and replace the fluid in the reservoir before trying to connect the drive belt. If the system has been allowed to drain seals and bearings may have deteriorated. The fact that you can actually drive it without the PAS shows how little assistance it gives - just try steering a modern car with hydraulic PAS and the engine switched off. I’ve never felt I don’t have enough steering feel with the PAS connected, mostly my backside tells me if the rear end is starting to slide which is more of a concern. The main thing is if the car reacts to slight movements of the steering wheel which indicates all the mounting bushes are in good condition.
Incidentally, the wheels on your car indicate that it should be a 2004 1.8i Sport - it will have a six speed gearbox and semi-LSD differential which are nice bits to have. If you are buying chassis or engine spares, make certain you buy the correct parts as brakes etc are different.
Cheers
Definitely a 1.8 Sport - camshaft front-to rear pipe for the VVT and also the suspension tower cross-brace, plus leather seats and the three-spoke leather covered steering wheel. Sadly also has suspect rear wheel arches but not surprising given the level of rot under (and in!) the bonnet. Did the previous MoT (you can find it on the UK gov website) show any rust advisories?
Yes, lots, the sills had been done at some time and the car appears to have been looked after but it ended up on a farm and I suspect it made a few laps of a field nearby. Mud had been sprayed up at the front, into the engine bay, then it looks like it had been left for some time with the bonnet open. I’m sure a lot of people would have walked as soon as looking underneath, (although the underneath has turned out to be not quite as bad as my first impressions). I saw potential, the price was quite good so I took the jump. Quite often I don’t pick cars and bikes, they seem to pick me! Have a look on the MOT site, reg is YC54OND
Thanks, 'keen to learn as much as poss about the car and marque. The log book has it as a S-VT Sport. Is it a 15th anniversary do you know?