Ah I did wonder what the thing was in the picture! Thanks for highlighting that as I definitely do not want something stuck to the windscreen. Ok so it sounds like the upgrade packs aren’t for me (as they’re sold anyway) and I need to go for the individual options. I hadn’t even realised the aerial was different for DAB. I don’t use DAB much but if it’s there I don’t want to not be able to use it.
From what I can tell most if not all the £400ish stereos have wireless and bluetooth (not sure what the difference is) apple and android connectivity. Thats my main req anyway - a good touchscreen, andriod and apple non-wired connection and steering wheel controls that work. Sub reqs are the DAB radio and the reverse camera but I may aswell go all out and get them too.
Also assume as they come with USB on the back I can thread that back down to my centre console in some fashion?
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Yeah totally get it - I’m being a bit lazy by just asking tonnes of questions but this forum and the people on it are so useful and friendly it gets kind of addictive and saves bit of time and brainpower that gets used up from the endless searching on YouTube etc!
I think I have enough to go on - thanks so much for the advice chaps - really appreciate it
They do but the advantage of the wireless versions of the head units is that you don’t need to plug your phone into the USB lead that comes (supplied) out of the back of the head unit. You can obviously connect your phone / stream music via Bluetooth to units without wireless but I believe you still need to plug them in for CarPlay/ Android Auto to work (pls correct me if I’m wrong). With the wireless version I just ran the supplied usb cable to the glovebox so it’s there if I ever need it.
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And yes, I wouldn’t have been able to do it myself without the help from people on the forum - invaluable.
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Do note that wireless dongles for both carplay and android auto exist and can be had for ~£50-70 depending on the specific dongle, cheaper if you score a deal on ebay. So if the wireless head units are significantly more expensive then that could be an option. Personally I am going to get an older wired sony unit cheap on ebay and use my AAWireless dongle.
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Yep I was thinking more for charging the phone rather than streaming over it. I have a USB connection in my cigar lighter socket now but it’s hideously slow - hoping a USB from the stereo will be an improvement
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Okay, sounds like you will put the rear camera in.
Top tip route it through the boot bulkhead in the existing waterproof grommets.
Get 2 silicon tube screw on nozzles and lube them into the existing grommets.
Perhaps a gentle heat from a hair dryer too.
You need to gently prise them out.
Cut the end off (of the nozzle) so the plug fits through and then cut the nozzles out and bobs your uncle.
The cable comes from the unit along the tunnel and then feeds through the carpet (slight cut from memory) and all hidden.
Wire coat hanger opened up did the job.
Pictures for your information. 
Keeps us oldens grey matter busy. 
Edit- in addition the single LIME GREEN WIRE that runs behind the glove box and rearward is the one you do have to splice into for automatic camera operation when selecting reverse.
It’s actually spliced and taped in originally by Mazda.
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Why didn’t I think about that at the time! 
Consul coming out soon.
Exactly what I did after following your instructions! However I didn’t cut the camera cable - managed to release the plug from the end of it (Pioneer camera) after looking up how to do it on YouTube! Once threaded through to the head unit I popped the plug back on.
Sorry, perhaps I didn’t explain correctly I didn’t cut the cable either just fed it through.
Amended post above.
■■■■■■, I must have missed that wire for the camera - I went digging around the passenger footwell for the reversing light cable!
Is the lime green wire going to involve the dreaded soldering?
Nah, you can always use a scotch connector to snap onto it!
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That was a top tip from Robbie when I was doing it.
Some are 6.8inch and some are 7 inch - assume both fit? (with the right fascia of course)
I’ll have to re-do it now, my OCD might not be able to take it!
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I installed the reverse camera on my NC, best route for cables is go down the driver’s side, under the sill cover through into the boot. There’s a small opening in the very bottom corner of the boot (past the suspension turret) leading through to the cabin. You’ll need to remove the plastic back panelling that side enough to get to see how it goes, then in the boot remove all of the plastic liners. Feed the cable through the grommets already there to the boot lid (shown in the pic above) you may need to open up the rubber grommet a little, you can seal it with silicone seal.
You’ll just need as mentioned to connect up the live to the reverse lamp and an earth, easy enough. The more difficult part is finding that hole in the corner of the boot to pass the cable through. I attached a stiff piece of wire on the cables and poked away
Not sure about 7", might be a bit too big for the replacement facia. Even with the bits supplied (my head unit was 6.8"), I had to set the unit back a wee bit in the new facia in order for the snap on bezel that came with it to fit ok. If the bezel was a wee bit thinner then the head unit could sit a bit more flush with the facia.
Mines the same and as all is working (apart from that) decided not to fiddle!
TBH I can’t remember now whether that worked or I pressed answer on the old unit now. 
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