And if you aren’t/can’t reject it, maybe get those little wedges too, which a member on here sells, as another insurance that the rubbing don’t occur again.
I’m the one selling the wedges.
Anyone who wants a set, drop me a PM.
Well worth buying as they completely solve the problem. Far better solution than having the dealer try to adjust the roof.
If I ever get another ND (I’m happy with mine and its ‘natural’ 1/2 inch + hoop/hood gap!), I’ll be ordering your wedges before I actually buy it/drive it!
Already designed and printed my own wedges, possibly need few small tweaks but works well so far.
Roof assembly needed tweaking to get rid of the rattle but that is sorted now.
Mitchell’s are dealing with the dent in August, still claiming it was not them but they will cover the cost, so hopefully that’s the last time I’m going there.
Not keen really on rejecting this car as other than issues with this repair I absolutely love it. Plus being a Kizuna it does stand out a bit.
Although this light stone leather is “fun” to keep clean.
How did it all pan out?
Sorry it’s been a while since I’ve been here, they’ve sorted the dent but small scratch still remains, albeit not as visible now, parted our ways in the end. Sure as hell not going back there again.
Not surprised. Pity it all turned out as it did. Totally takes the shine off, and spoils an expensive purchase.
I know ‘Roadie’ sells the wedges to solve this problem for £18 a pair, but this does seem rather expensive once you see them, as they’re tiny, but effectve.
I’ve since found the same wedges on the 124 Spider UK shop online for £5 a pair, £9.50 delivered, so about half the price.
The Fiat 124 Spider is exactly the same as an ND inside, including the roof, so these fit perfectly. Only the engine, body panels, lights etc are different so there are no issues with these, as I can confirm having just fitted them. They certainly work and give better clearance than before.
What do the wedges look like ‘on’. How does one fit them on? Where do they go on the car?
Just go to the web site------ 124 Spider UK - Roof spacers (pair)
Cheers.
Mind you, looking at that third pic, it still looks borderline rubbing!
Hi ND12,
If you drop the roof, but leave it about 6-12 inches up before it locks down, there’s a small recess on the outer side of each headrest. This is in-line with where the roof locks at either side when the roof is lowered.
The wedges go into this space, broad side to the bottom, tapered side to the top. They come covered in anti-abrasion fabric which won’t damage the roof, and on the side which is fitted to the bulkhead plastic, there’s double-sided tape. Pull the tape off and stick it onto the plastic recess, ensuring it is seated at the bottom.
The locking latches weren’t exactly symmetrical in my car, one was just slightly different to the other. So I lowered the roof as if away to lock it in the open position, and noted where the locating parts were as the wedge pushes the roof away from the protective head loops at these two points.
I’ve tested it and it defintely pushes the roof away from the loops, therfore preventing any rubbing.
They’re tiny wedges, not worth £18, but for £5 plus £4.50 p&p they’re worth buying. Maybe for £18 they’re still worth it to prevent roof damage, but save yourself £8.50 and get them from 124 Spider UK shop.
The Fiat 124 Spider is apparently built next to the Mazda ND’s in Hiroshima. Pretty much a MX5 ND apart from the engine and externals, the roof and interior are identical, hence why these fit perfectly.
There are plenty photo’s of them in situ, check out the 124 Spider UK shop website for pics.
I think that third photo must be a ‘before’ pic, because once they’re fitted they’re well away from the hoops.
Good description.
I don’t need them personally, as my gap is good, but if I ever got another ND, it’s good to know stuff’s present to save a) having a total meltdown at seeing a hood touching the roll hoops a DECADE after the car was released, and b) save Mazda’s ‘specially trained technicians’ crawling all over it,trying to apply the spacer TSB.
Mind you, I agree that at even at £18, let alone the £9.50 you paid, if they stop the hood rubbing, they’re worth that 10X over!
Given my dealings with Mazda garages over the years, I’d go to a local and trusted garage any day.
I bought my Z-Sport in Feb 2021 with 12K on the ckock. I maybe didn’t check the hood at that time as I wasn’t aware of the problem.
Fortunately, my hood has minimal rubbing, but there are slight marks on the hoops.
I’ve had a '94 Eunos 1.6, a 2002 NB2 1.6, and now my 2.0 Z-Sport. The vinyl roofs never had this problem, but then this car is the shortest MX5 ever.
I’m going to buy my last MX5 in the next few years, as I won’t ever consider a hybrid or electric car. My last ‘fun’ car will be what I have now, or the 184bhp ND2, which I have driven, but needs to be revved, defintely less torque down low with the ND2.
Whatever we drive, any MX5 is better, and definitely more fun, than most cars out there, and at a fraction of the price.
Interesting. As a on-off reply, and not wanting to digress the thread topic, do you mean the 181/4 hp ND2/3, in your experience, has less lower down torque than your ND1 Z- Sport? If I’m reading that correctly? I ask as your potential ‘upgrading’ situation has crossed my mind too, and I also have the 160hp ND1 so am interested in your viewpoint (if I read it correctly) that ‘our’ ND1 has/or at least the feeling of, more lower down torque?
I drove the ND2 about a year ago. I instantly noticed the lack of low down torque compared to my ND1.
I was absolutely sure I was going to buy an ND2 before that test drive, but I haven’t, and now don’t intend to.
Real world driving is 4,000 revs and below, and the ND1 is great at this range, and all the way up to the red line.
I think the ND2 revs a little bit more, and it does pull harder at the top of the rev range, but realistically, how often are we there?
Just my opinion, but having driven them both, I’m sticking with my ND1 2.0. I’m sure I’d love the ND2, but probably not worth the extra money in my opinion.