All models models rot from the inside out. Rust appearing on the âsillsâ is more often than not a portant of repairs needed. You can either be proactive, and deal with it, or wait until it actually fails, or when the rear jacking point collapses when there is no actual sill left (the sill itself is internal).
If a NA, more likely than not, its had sill repairs before, to varying degrees of quality. Metal repairs might last 5-10 years. Most repairs would have initially just tackled the âsillâ area. The next round of repairs likely involve the arch as well, So the cost will be about ÂŁ700-900 per side (including paint). If a NA, unless the rest of the car is obviously decrepit, likely this is the only rust that you will really need to worry about.
If a NB, ditto the statements about the sill, though maybe a slightly lower rate of repairing a previous repair (but many will have been repaired). However, additionally, such comments would raise a red flag about the state of the front chassis legs, which might not have been noticed by the MOT Inspector, due to the engine tray covering things. NB front legs rot out, from the inside out, due to their construction (NAs not so much). Repairs would likely be ÂŁ500-1000.
If NC, rusty cars seem to be rusty everywhere. THere are some bolt on replacement parts, but most repairs will need fabrication, and they could be chasing down a lot of damage.
NAs drip oil. Usually doesnât get worse. Can be easy to fix, if from the cam cover, less easy to fix if the sump, or rear crank seal. Mine is leaking someplace (not the cam cover) but not enough to really warrant chasing down.
If NA, rust on the subframes and arms is usually just surface, and can be cleaned and treated. If NB, because the pressings changed, its possible for the arms to rot out to the point of being weakened, and will need replacing. Pattern NB arms are available, and are cheap, but there is significant labour because obviously the suspension needs dismantling etc.
