Good to hear of another success.
It is best to shut all the doors and boot and leave unlocked. It avoids the outside possibility of the ‘system’ becoming confused particularly with regard to the slight drop of the door window glass should you leave the doors open.
Good to hear from you! I saw a Swift the other day and it looked bonnie. Re istop, if I havent driven my ND for a week, I disable it for a while, as most of my driving is in stop/go traffic. I also got several of those very cheap LED voltmeters off amazon, chose the most accurate, and leave it plugged into the 12v cigar lighter socket. This helps me monitor the battery and see what istop is doing. No problems with dead battery so far after 1 year. 6" of snow here in Vienna today. I hope it will have warmed up by Thursday when I take the car in to have the winter tyres put back on!
David
Just out of interest how does knowing the voltage help with this?
There is a dedicated screen for i-stop and i-eloop monitoring.
I haven’t found that screen on my ND with i-stop and i-eloop, where are they in the menu?
Thanks in advance
Clive
Applications - Fuel Economy Monitor - Next Screen from memory.
Have a look here untitled (mazda.media) section 4-85
It is in the fuel economy monitor section. I think the ignition needs to be on to see it on the screen.
Page 4-88 top picture will show you why i-stop is not functioning.
The screen doesnt show you the state of the battery, by looking at the voltage directly while the engine is running I can tell how charged it is.
David
Not convinced this shows you what i-stop is doing.
When iStop has stopped the engine, the voltmeter shows the battery voltage when not being charged. When the engine is running it shows the battery terminal voltage as it is being charged. the higher this latter is, the more it is being charged, the lower the former is the less charged the battery is.
Best,
David
Unfortunately those readings will not normally help with identifying why the i-stop has stopped working.
In 99% of cases those readings will still be ‘normal’, the problem is usually that the system that i-stop uses has become confused and does not compute the actual readings. This is why removing the earth for a period of time works as it clears the memory that i-stop is using so when you reconnect the battery it sees the current correct readings and starts to work correctly.
It is probably worth noting that when you have been stationary for some minutes i-stop restarts the car when the capacitor becomes empty and is not directly related to the battery voltage/capacity.
The best screen for information on i-stop is the one I referred to earlier and will show which of the three systems are causing the problem. (Engine, Battery or Air Con.)
Malc,
Are we talking about the same thing? I am talking about iStop, whereas your reference to a capacitor implies that you are talking about e-loop.
David
i-stop will not work once the capacitor is empty. When your car restarts when you are stationary it is not because of the state of the battery it is because the recovered energy has run out in the capacitor.
Sorry if my explanations were not clear. From your replies you did not seem to understand how the two systems work and interact with each other.
The voltage reading at the power socket changes between capacitor and 12 volt battery depending on driving conditions and iStop activation. It’s not necessarily a true reading of actual battery voltage.
I have a 2023 MY ND, having been using a CTEK 5.0 connected +ve to battery -ve to chassis and after a charging period of several weeks (maintenance mode) i-stop has stopped working for at least 100 miles. The information screen shows battery not ready (not “glowing” icon). Guess I’ll wait for a few more miles to pass…
Remove the whole negative battery terminal for 15 minutes and then reconnect. You will only lose some mpg /milage data, there is no re set required and the car does not have to re learn anything. Works every time for many of us.
All though reconnecting the battery and just driving the car works, stating that there is no reset procedure is not strictly true.
There is an i-Stop learn that should be carried out after reconnecting the battery.
In a nutshell, the state of charge of the battery should be checked with a hydrometer or using a diagnostic tool. With the bonnet open the, the i-Stop switch should be pressed and the i-Stop light observed to check that the system is happy with the state of charge of the battery, then you close the bonnet and press the i-Stop switch again with the engine idling and the i-Stop systems “learns”. The i-Stop light turns off when completed.
It’s all a bit more specific than that in reality and with a good battery, as stated the system will generally sort itself out.
In my case the battery is only a year old and was on float charge with the CTEK for a few weeks, so I think it’s actually quite well charged. The car thinks it’s SOC is about 60% (according to odb2 data) so I think it’s lost the plot as seems to be common knowledge when you charge it.
Interestingly the reported SOC is creeping up by about 3% per hour of driving. Maybe i-stop will be restored when it gets over 75%? So long as this doesn’t actually damage the battery when it’s actually charged and car thinks it’s not, all good.
The reset procedure seems awkward given some steps need to be done within a certain time …
The stated SOC before refitting the battery and carrying out the i-Stop learn should be 75% or above or it should have a specific gravity of 1.25 kg/l or above.
The SOC should be read before battery disconnection though.
You mean the actual SOC of the battery, or SOC reported by the car’s BMS/odb2 port?
For reference BATTERY CONDITION INITIALIZATION SETTING (i-stop SETTING)
So I tried just disconnecting the -ve terminal and current sensor connector for 5min, followed by reconnecting the -ve terminal, followed by the current sensor. i-stop started working immediately, so thanks to those who suggested just that may work 