I’m looking for technical help or recommendations on: __judder
I did a motorway M6/M40 run yesterday and noticed (not for the first time) a juddering sensation from engine and/or front axle. It was intermittent and not easy to repeat. The judder was noticeable, quite high frequency and occured at any speed. At motorway speeds it might last for around a mile before fading and disappearing. It might happen 4/5 times on a 5 hour/200+ mile run.
I also noticed it around town and when felt first about a month ago I put it down to steering feel over a poor road surface but soon came to the conclusion it wasn’t the road.
I get the impression it is suspension, wheel, brake related but am confused by the intermittent nature. My other potential diagnosis is fuelling or engine management ( there are no dash lights and all gauges show as normal). I don’t have a code reader (Santa: I’ve been a good boy ).
These NC’s (probably all models) can get brake caliper seizures, especially if the cars had lack of brake servicing. Check after a shortish drive the brake discs to see if they are getting excessively hot one side maybe more than the other. Brake slide pins again can seize, good practice to service brakes annually, anyways it’s a starting point for diagnosis.
Thanks Mick…brakes were another thought that crossed my mind but I couldn’t understand why the juddering would happen on a motorway run. The brakes I’m pretty sure need attention…I noticed recently that when braking there’s a feeling like the pads are not pressing against a flat disc as the normal braking sensation warps in and out…I’ll investigate further.
My first thought would be a binding/sticking front caliper. The more you brake and generate heat the more noticeable the judder. Years ago on another make of vehicle I had this problem which would cool down on a motorway and stop juddering.
Jack the front up and spin the front wheels and check for resistance. Problem here is if the brakes are cold there maybe no resistance! So you may have to remove the wheels and check the calipers. Until you’ve identified the problem I would avoid driving the car!
Good to get your input. Evidence seems to be building towards a brake issue. In my recent investigations I had something about the heat in the brakes causing the intermittent nature…I’ve got the day off so will look into further…thanks and take care of yourself
Thanks 62 for the reply…all the replies seem to be pointing in the brake direction so that’s where I’ll start looking.
Did you diagnose and replace the parts yourself or did you get the professionals involved? If the latter, just wondering what they might have said about the cause ie normal wear and tear or something else.
Initially I thought it was suspension related and car was due a service, so asked my garage to investigate issue, they quickly diagnosed the sticking brake calibre. So just got the to sort out issue why on the ramp, changed both sides as it made sense.
Should have added, check the rear face of brake disc too. On another car years ago the front face you can see was fine, the rear of it was toast. That was only giving pulsing noises, noticeable only on heavy braking.
Good to hear your experience and what discussions to have with the garage. Did you have any thoughts of upgrading the replacement parts or was it OEM all the way?
I think if you identify any parts that need replacement then ask away on here. Bear in mind Mazda OEM parts are nearly always an higher price, sometimes they are reasonably priced, nowt wrong with a decent aftermarket part either.
As for brake parts, I use brembo if I can get them.
What tyres are you running? Are they a matched pair,? For some reason these cars are very picky and can produce all kind of strange symptoms on different tyres, both front and rear…
One of the useful things to carry in the car if you have doubts about tyres and brakes is an Infra-Red thermometer. Mine is still working OK five years later.
These are generic and reasonably accurate, and surprisingly useful for comparing surface temperatures, like brake discs or wheels; much safer than touching the dull red glow on an overheated brake disc. They’re also useful for looking at cold spots and heat leaks around the house, inside and outside.
Shiny surfaces, white surfaces and black surfaces give slightly different answers for the same temperature, but you soon get used to it.
Thanks for the message. All the evidence is pointing in the sticking calliper direction. Good to know when I call the garage…thanks again and take care
As Richard FX quite rightly advises a laser thermometer is a useful item to have in your toolkit. As someone who has spent a lifetime as a mechanic when laser thermometers came out it was one of those items that you find invaluable.One great use is if you have wheel bearing noise that you cannot pinpoint where it is coming from quite often after a run up the road the laser thermometer aimed at the wheel bearings will show the offending one to be at a higher temperature.
I also use mine to check that my underfloor heating & its thermostat are at correct temperature after having a thermostat fail resulting in a eye watering electric bill !
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