I’m looking for technical help or recommendations on: __ LED lighting
Having read numerous posts regarding DRL’s I had every intention of doing some kind of modification but then also seen suggestions to just drive around with side lights on instead, which I tend to do.
So I’ve decided just to upgrade to LED’s for simplicity.
Rather than spend hours researching, has anyone got suggestions for the best/brightest LED replacements for front side lights, tail lights and probably number plate lights.
I have Ring LEDs in my sidelight sockets that came from Autobulbs Direct, ABD.
I also have similar LEDs in my foglights and use them as DRLs for extra road presence. Works a treat.
You can’t just put the brightest LEDs you can find in the number plate bulb holders as there is limited space but they don’t need to be enormously bright anyway.
So, not a lot to see really? The new LED bulb is a direct replacement for the indicator bulb. When car is running the bulb acts as a DRL, when indicator is used, the DRL off and the indicator flashes. Cancel the indicators and DRL works. With the addition of the controller, when headlights are on, it dims the DRL’S to comply with MOT rules etc. When ignition switched off, the DRL’S remain on for a short while. Acts like a lot of modern cars with the “see you home” feature. Very good modification IMO. EXTREMELY bright DRL’S and indicators.
Am I right with my interpretation, in that the bulbs are just plug ‘n’ play?
Not sure about the controller though. Does that need to be wired into the headlight relay or fuse box?
The sidelight bulbs are plug and play.
No reason not to do the indicator thing as well though, although it does look more involved.
You can even substitute the plug and play led bulbs in the foglights and have all three if you want serious road presence.
TBH, not too bad to do, I loosened the wheel arch liners (front sections) after taking wheel off, for better access. If you look at the pic in previous post, the bulb holder is a rubber affair and pushes in to the aperture where the OEM bulb holder goes. The wire from the new bulb has an ‘end’ the same as the OEM bulb and literally just pushes in to the OEM bulb holder? The controller connects to positive/negative on battery with an inline (supplied) fuse on positive side, then a wire to piggy back onto headlight power wire. Finally, a wire from controller to run along front of car to nearside headlight power wire and job done probably sounds harder than it actually is? The controller is a voltage sensor (which is wired across battery terminals) so when starting it senses drop in voltage and again when headlights on, then again a voltage increase when switching off ignition.
Barrie
Hiya, see my reply to 999 to 5. Well worth doing, fit and forget, don’t have to switch anything on or off when driving etc and a very good position for the DRL’S in that location. Someone might be along shortly to say that the position is illegal but had them on this and previous NC, so 6 years and no issues MOT wise etc. Haven’t checked positioning for fitting to a mx5
I guess you could, I valued the skin on my hands and knuckles though!
Can’t remember the wire colour for the headlight but easy to locate coming out of the bulb holder. Strip a little insulation off the wire and solder, scotchlock connector or crimp style will all work. Mines been on 2 cars over 6 years and not had an issue. Then run another length of wire from that piggy back connection to the other headlight and repeat all the gubbins ( surplus wire, connectors, ballast resistors etc, easily secured within the void behind the arch liner too. Also the ballast resistor generates heat, so better secured to bodywork behind the liner to hold it secure and help heat disappate
Barrie
Thanks for the response, I’ve just ordered the sidelight LEDs from ABD for now but think eventually I’m also going to fit the kit suggested by Bettabuilda.
I understand what your saying regarding the number plate lights, it was more the main lights to be brightest, for road presence. Changing the rest of the bulbs was just to reduce power consumption.
Thanks again.
A lot of the LED run hot because of the resistor they have for canbus I believe.
It doesn’t matter too much when you have a LED indicator as its not on long enough to heat up but for side light, there is some debate about it. I guess they won’t run as hot as a halogen bulb which is what the headlight is made for, so should be good.
I will be going for one of these, they are not error free as the NC doesn’t need it, but I’m guessing the ND has error light system on it, so they might flag up a dash error.
I have full red rear lens so need bright amber LED so it’s visible.
Be aware that some of the switchback kits out there are cheap Chinese stuff that will pack up just outside warranty. They come without replaceable bulbs and when one fails, which it inevitably will, you have to buy the whole lot again.
Got the LED front side lights from ABD, hoping to swap them over at the weekend, now its warmed up a little.
Will do the indicator conversion in a few weeks.
Do I have to take the front wheels off to get to the side lights, l assume the wheel arch liner has to be removed?
Sorry if that’s a daft question but not looked at the car first.
probably sounds harder than it actually is? The controller is a voltage sensor (which is wired across battery terminals) so when starting it senses drop in voltage and again when headlights on, then again a voltage increase when switching off ignition.
but had them on this and previous NC, so 6 years and no issues MOT wise etc. Haven’t checked positioning for fitting to a mx5 
