I’ve looked on all sorts of forums from 2009 onwards and couldn’t find anyone who’s had the same issue
I’m in a desperate situation where my mirror needs to be fixed before next Thursday as I’m driving 400+ miles and need the mirror to be sturdy.
Im going to try my best to explain what the issue is:
The entire wing mirror (not just the glass) is loose/ wobbly. I found out both of the screw holes were rotted out and it has almost made it impossible to put a new bolt in because it doesn’t grip on anything.
I took off the door card and put my hand up the hole at the bottom of the door and the space to small for me to hold a nut in place for the bolt to hold it all together.
I’m thinking of using some stuff called Sticks like ■■■■ if I can’t find any alternative but id appreciate any suggestions.
So the bracket holding the mirror on to the door is loose and those 2 screws are rusted holding it?
It’s usually the one bolt holding the mirror body on to the bracket that rusts and eventually snaps.
Don’t know what to suggest really, it sounds as you describe the captive nuts in the door panel are rusted/loose.
There shouldn’t be a need to add a nut at the top of the door as there is either a thread within the metal of the door, or a welded captive nut (not sure which) already in there to hold the bolts.
Also I’d order four replacement bolts and while it sounds like you don’t currently need the kit @Wardy5 linked to, it may be worth buying the two kits (so we’re covering both mirrors) for when the time comes that the bulbous part of the mirror falls off the car.
this bolt holds it in place however isnt fully tight and because the on the other side there isn’t a bolt it slips and moves when I hit speed bumps or just a rough road surface
If you put your finger in the hole where the black bolt currently resides can you feel any thread?
If you can I’m wondering if you can tap the thread and see if that works.
If you can’t I’m guessing it is a captive nut and it’s now sitting at the bottom of the door panel.
If the thread really is gone, then the only options I can think of are:
Using an easy to remove, but good holding glue like you suggested already, though if the nut has gone the bolt will only be being held by the thin metal of the door panel I would think.
Finding someone with long, slender arms who can reach up the door panel and hold a nut in place.
Using a really long bolt that extends through to the inside of the car and tightening it up from the horizontal so you’re not reaching up inside the panel (no idea if that’s possible as it’s been ages since I had my door cards off)
I’ve never used a jack nut myself, saw it on thed Brooklands museum TV show.
As I remember you drill the hole to accomodate the jacknut and then it just slots in, then your bolt threads into the jacknut - there were other styles which worked like a rivet where you had to compress it to hold, but the type I linked to looks like it would work without that (or a dab of sealant/glue to hold).
I presume there is another option which would be to have a mechanic take the door off, dismantle it and fix a new nut inside there.
I don’t know if that style of fixing would work or not, but I believe the bolts for the mirror are M10 -but we really need a second opinion on that ! - and that you linked to is M6, so it would be too small.
It’s possible there are sellers on eBay who are actual businesses in your location whom you could then pop in to store to get the parts from.
I did find this assorted pack at screwfix, but they’re hexagonal:
(though I suppose you’d at least have them free to try a bolt in to check if M10 was right - kinda pricey for just one nut mind)
I wonder if you could use one of those nuts that fits the existing hole, then the smaller bolt that would fit the nuts’ size with small/large washers on it to make up the size for the mirror - probably that way madness lies but it would mean at a later date you’d be able to get the captive nut sorted properly and wouldn’t have drilled larger holes in your car.
Basically in the case of the assorted pack, you’re using the rivet nuts length plus (probably) some glue to create the grip - additionally if the captive nut is still there albeit with useless threads, this adds to rivet nut having some form of security to it.
@MickAP’s version works like this:
So the internal rivet area is collapsed into the other side of the door panel (or captive nut if it’s still there) making the grip, then the bolt threads through.
