just a couple of questions that will get people saying “here we go again” but I have had a quick look around and cant find a previous thread .
I am looking to buy a early mk2 but because of a badly healed fracture in my left arm , thinking for the first time in my 40 plus years of driving of going to the darkside of the automatic… so looking for advice if this would spoil this car?. it would also appear they cost £500 ish more than a manual and are like rocking horse poo to find.
also this car is meant to be a bit of fun for me and my wife, top down driving into town shopping for the mrs. and sneaking off to Snetterton for a trackday for me. would a auto cope with this?.
last question, why do I want one so badly even when I read reports of the awful problems with rust?. and really the last question this time. anyone any idea where I can find this holy grail of a low rust 2002 auto with mileage under 70,000?
It’s just a matter of keep looking, Tony, although I think you will find that autos will all be imports as Mazda didn’t offer them to the UK market. Not all Mk2’s are rust buckets, just don’t expect to get a good one for peanuts.
I subsequently bought an Auto Eunos, and I can confirm that the auto box is fun, but in it’s own way. Learning to ‘soften’ the gear changes with subtle application of the the throttle is what it’s all about (for me), and the overdrive-off button on the Eunos adds another element of control. Sure, there are times when I would like to have the total control/involvement of a manual, but the auto is much less of a fun-killer than I’d feared.
As for finding a Mk2, don’t know. You’d find it much easier to get hold of a Eunos, and that would probably hold it’s value better.
this opens another can of worms… with a import if the speedo has been changed and km converted to miles, how reliable is the mileage reading later on in the cars life,
You say an early Mk2, but a 2002 will be a Mk2.5 and all the better for it.
Apart from potential rot (of which there are many threads) and as someone who owns both a Mk1 1840cc auto, a manual 2002 Sport which was the subject of an extensive remetalling build, plus having owned both for 11 years and still do, you can take it as read from me it’s never the oily bits that write any older 5 off but rot can if…the repairs are regarded as being uneconomical. At what point do “economic” repairs become silly? There is no right or wrong answer…just more “opinions”
I would only suggest that a 2002 car really needs to be the 1840cc version, and carry out a thorough nose to tail inspection as detailed in said threads. It’s not all doom and gloom, there are solid examples out there, but an auto will add to the “fun” of finding the right car.
I’ve a view autos are less likely to have been hammered, and perhaps that “sort” of owner might just have been of a mindset to look after it better.
As for an auto commanding £500.00 more? Well, if it’s a well cared for rot free example, I’d say so what…grab it…after negotiation. I’m sure you know any car’s asking price is 10/20% more than what the vendor expects to trouser.
Also, I can tell you that once you get the hang of an auto…it’ll play keepy uppy with any manual of it’s year /model X country and urban.
I can just sense the “harr-umphs harr-umphs” at this point…form those who have never been in one never mind driven one. “You need a gearstick to have a propah sports car my man”…apparently.
Mid range rpm kickdown on dual carriageways etc is a hoot… For years I’ve had a bit of fun making “stuff” history if they were up my rear bumper…well for about a half mile till they wake up. Hilarious.
Scottish£5 thanks for the info. like the term “fun” driving up and down the country admiring all those “rust free cars”. thinking of arming myself with sharp pointy screwdriver. magnet. and usb scope… happy days
There are a lot of MK1 style Eunos 1.6 and 1.8 cars with the automatic gearbox. The MK1 has proven to be the better car in terms of longevity because if the well documented, inherent rust issues that badly effect the MK2/MK2.5.
Add to that the rarity of the MK2/MK2.5 automatic with different ecu, exhaust, etc and the additional cost of purchase.
Do yourself a favour and buy the MK1 style variant of the auto(popup headlights 1989 - 98). Lots of happy owners with a good opinion of these cars and few of the problems you will have with the later version.
I have a Mk1 1.6 auto and have had several manuals. The Auto is much better than I had feared. As previously mentioned smoothing the changes is a knack easily gained and it’s possible to get them almost imperceptible. For day to day driving I would say the Auto is nicer than the manual. Especially when cruising on a dual carriageway where the revs are lower. However, whilst I,m sure the Auto box would cope with track days ( apparently they fit them in Indian taxis), I,m not convinced I would like to indulge. The overdrive button does give a feel of engine braking but they still run into the corners a bit quicker than a manual. There are dozens of Mk1 autos about and they seem cheaper than the manuals. Most of them seem to have remained fairly standard as the " Yoofs" shy away from the slush box.
have one way or another worked with cars most of my life. plus I am in no great hurry. but at the end of the day you never know what you have got until a few months later. but with care hopefully not end up with a pup
You may be able to find your holy grail in Japan but by the time you pay for shipping and tax not really worth it. The mark 2 rusts like no other car I have ever seen. The car you are seeing has probably had one sill fixed in the past so ask to see the paperwork for the repair. Front chassis rails are partly covered by the undertray so the first thing to do it open the bonnet. Get your phone or camera and place it underneath the drivers chassis rail and point it upwards. You should get a picture of the underneath of the driver’s side chassis rail. Bit difficult to get the passenger side. Also check the seat belts lower mountings.