I’ve had my nc 3.75 for a while now, put about 700 miles on it. I love the car, handles great, revs freely, runs well, sharp steering, brakes are good and it’s very mechanically sound with hardly any bodywork rattles but with the usual notchy cold gear changes as to be expected of the car. I’ve fitted new discs and pads, anti roll bars and links, coilovers and new wheels and tyres and done complete comprehensive servicing throughout.
Compared to other cars I’ve had I’d describe the engine as a little harsh. Would this be a common thing in the mx5 world? I feel like there’s nothing wrong with the car, just that the amount of connectedness to it means you can feel and hear everything. It’s a buzzy little car.
Just seeking long term owners opinions on this as I don’t see it as a problem but want to know that it’s normal. So hard to tell from the others I’ve driven as the test drives were short compared to longer term ownership. This car felt no different to the others, if anything nicer.
Input appreciated, I have no plans to get rid but if there is potentially anything I can do to smooth it out I’d like that as I eventually plan to go turbo and though the car is low mileage I wonder if they’re prone to anything like premature engine mounting failures etc that could cause additional nvh.
The only actual flaw mechanically to me is a rattly vibration through the clutch/trans that sounds like heatshield at certain revs when accelerating, I thought this was clutch springs but apparently this is normal for a lot of mx5s, doesn’t get worse and I found it on a couple of others I test drove. You can drive around it.
Any experiences appreciated 
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Hi,
I have had my NC 2007 1.8 since December and have put about 3000 miles on it. I am pleased with it.
Having driven an NA8C for 4 years previously I would say the NC is slower. The comfort from the seats is better in the NC, just about familiar with the extra width.
I have found no harshness or rattles with the engine or transmission. An occasional squeak from the steering column.
Coming from a 2.0 turbo (EA888 Cupra) to my NC1, the duratec is a bit more grumbly sometimes. The rattles and shakes a far more obvious coming back to a proper manual from flappy paddles.
I think I know that metallic rattle you mean. I’ve noticed mine makes a sound like you describe under throttle at low revs just as/just after the clutch is released. I’ve got a suspicion there’s increased NVH through the transmission when the engine is pulling at low revs. I haven’t noticed any poor performance yet, but I am keeping alert for signs of clutch slip!
When I bought my 12 plate it was the same. I marvelled how Mazda had kept some of the characteristics of the Mark 1 I had previously - along with the odd positioning of the petrol cap release and electric window switches.
I have the same pair of cars now.
2006 NC1 and 2018 Cupra 300 ( Manual )
I actually like the NC for its more connected feel to the road.
If you want to feel harsh and basic - try a TVR S2 2.8 - my mate bought one.
Very crash and bang feel to it.
The NC is very smooth in both ride and engine in comparison.
I would love to have my Cupra motor in the NC
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Haha - I constantly go for the door in the MX5 to drop the windows.
And have needed to return to the car a few times in the petrol station.
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Exactly that. If you’re not carrying enough revs/speed and change up and go back on the throttle you’ll get this metallic vibration. Certainly not engine, I thought heatshirld or clutch but apparently it can be a gearbox bearing and develop this characteristic from low miles.
Things like the buzzy gearstick I know is because it’s connected directly to the box. My Nissan was the same however they elected to bond the stick to the shaft with dense rubber which helped a lot.
I can imagine. I think it’s because I have hypersensitivty to noise and some of the frequencies are irritating to me.
I think the biggest contributor is soundproofing. I might embark on a mission to sort some of that out when I get the time. I don’t have many gripes with the car at all so if I could refine it slightly it would be great, without going too mad and adding masses to the weight 
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Has anyone else got out of their 5 straight into another car and then accidentally pulled the e brake instead of opening their window? It’s an experience…
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Yeah I was thinking of getting the shift boots renewed as I thought it could be those being loose causing the jiggle. Apparently not.
Oh now that is a great car combo! I wish I still had my '17 290. Getting the 5 was part of chopping it though. 
We had to chop the wife’s 500x and she was too scared of the Cupra to drive it as the family car. Cue charging around East Anglia to organise a PX.
I found that topping up the oil reservoir under the gearstick made a small difference to the vibration I felt.
For the price of some gearbox oil - I would try that first.
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I went front to rear in the cockpit with silent coat - then put closed cell sound killer over it.
The silent coat was for vibration damping.
The sound killer was for two reasons - noise damping and it doesn’t hold water like the oem sound proofing so it is way easier to dry out if ever there is a leak.
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I’ve just changed my car, salesman said it’s got the old fashioned handbrake unfortunately (most I’d looked at had those funny buttons lever things) I replied, great I like it.
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Did it have any noticeable positive effects?
I did the turret as part of my gearbox and diff service
Yes - very much so.
My mate also has an NC1 so we have a direct comparison between a factory stock car and mine.
He will be doing his sometime this year - he likes mine that much.
I am going to do the doors this year to cut down rattles and improve the stereo sound.
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What about bulkhead? Is it possible to do much of this as I imagine this is the main culprit.
Yep - front and rear.
before pics
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I dead-matted the boot and covered it in closed cell last weekend. Cockpit and doors are phases 2 and 3, but they include other stuff. I’m going to replace the doors cards for NC2/3 and I’m replacing the hood drains when I do the cockpit.
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