How do dampers/ damper settings affect ride quality? A friend of mine in Canada has spent a lot of money trying to reduce the visual gap between the wheel arch and the tyre but now has a very harsh ride in his NC as a consequence.
Hi all recently purchased a 2012 nc(kuro) with meister Rs on the car was dragging on the floor terrible ride and unable to go over speed humps? Had this sorted by softening the ride and having the ride height changed to 345 rear and 350 front and a full alignment
The car now is fantastic looks good and drives great
Hi there. 2007 NC 1.8.
335 rear and 340 front. Lowered by fitting Eiback 30mm springs.
Wow, your 30mm lowered car is lower than mine with the 35mm lowering springs.
Eibach F11-55-010-05-HA/VA are billed as 35mm lowering by MX5PARTS, and are physically shorter by 10mm than the F11-55-010-01-HA/VA that are billed as 30mm lowering. I was thinking about changing to the 30mm drop springs to raise mine to 350mm
Seems strange you are so low on them.
Quite a few posts around on the net regarding Eibach springs sagging not just after installation but over the course of the next year.
@Stace when you say B6 with ‘standard’ springs, which ‘standard’? Was/is your car the Sport model originally with the yellow Bilsteins or the Standard model with black shocks?
Someone please correct me, but I think the Sport springs run the car slightly lower than the Standard springs?
@mk375 Sagging Eibach? I have done a quick search and not found anything (confess to not specifically searching on MX5 sites), can you link?
On the 5 (NC at least) the top of the springs sit on the rubber boot, and the ‘pointy’ square cut on the spring compresses this rubber. My old rubbers were squeezed almost flat in that area while the new ones would be at a guess 8 or 9mm thick. Thus I would expect the suspension to settle by 5 or 6 mm as the new rubber compresses.
If the springs were ground flat, this would prevent this…
Eibach springs sagging in Google search. I am not saying the reports are based in fact but rather that there are a range of outcomes experienced when people add fixed drop springs to their cars. That’s the main reason I went straight for adjustable height Meisters. It gives the opportunity to adjust discrepancies, corner weight or add rake if required. When researching before buying I read so many posts where people had gone down the lowering spring route and ended up spending twice and ending up with coilovers.
Hi 2007 sport.
fitted Eibach 30mm lowering springs and after alignment
F345 - 35 drop
R340 - 30 drop
I found this a little low as the springs are still progressive, so initially soft.!
Fitted Meister CRD
with the aim of F355 and R350
After fitment and alignment.
I then took 6mm off front (1 rotation of adjusters is 3mm) so ended up at
no issues at all with height no, the springs are not progressive, so can be a little fidgety at lower speeds.
I believe the Meisters would allow upto 355 + at the rear and 380 at the front.
@mk375 Lol, sounds like me… Been looking at spacers to go either above the spring, or above the whole shock. Not much change out of £100 getting something I can shape myself out of Delrin, buying Superpro costs even more. I may end up with a standard set of springs, just like the ones I just sold
Sport model and I believe standard mk3.5 springs which appear lower than the old 4x4 ride height of earlier mk3s.
Nasty dips in the road can be taken flat without bottoming and the body control on the B6s is excellent if a little firm.
Some interesting results from my pair, and now I’m intrigued to look into it more!
NC2 2010 sport tech PRHT:
Right Front: 365
Left Front: 365
Right Rear: 365
Left Rear: 355
NC1 2005 Launch Edition (based on sport spec) Soft Top:
Right Front: 370
Left Front: 385
Right Rear: 370
Left Rear: 370
So for both cars I’ve got 3 equal heights and one different! Now want to find out why!
Asking the obvious… is it sitting on level ground when you are measuring, also is the brake off?
The post 2009 cars were slightly lower, so that looks right, but those springs are no longer young, maybe sagging a bit, or even cracked/broken (meaning rather than you having one high one, maybe you have one broken one making the other on the same axle look high).
Now then, fair point! Level ground but handbrake was on on both. However I never apply the handbrake until the car is totally stationary, but cant guarantee I put it on after I took my foot of the pedal…
Quick questioning relation to above, if I higher the ride height on my Meister’s from about 33.4 to 35 just to give a bit more clearance, would I need to get realigned?
You probably wouldn’t notice the difference if you rotate the height adjustment collar by the same amount on both sides. I found after removing the bilstein sport original suspension and dropping to 345mm on meisters that the car still tracked true. You could push realignment until your next set of tyres unless you observe handling issues or uneven tyre wear.
Will likely be exactly same so will give it a go.
I touched another speed hump today. Argghhh!!!
So I want to lift the car a bit (from the 35mm drop eibach).
I have looked at loads of spring options but could very easily throw more money at the issue and still not get what I want, I am reluctant to buy the longer set of eibach which are only a nominal 5mm higher - I am looking for 20mm higher. Also considered KYB and other springs, but could be a spring/damper mismatch disaster… So coming back to Meister CRD (£800) or TEIN Street Basis (£490).
But you guys have got me confused - Spud, you have set yours to F354 R350, and say they can go higher.
Mark - you say the max on the rear is 345.
So we have a difference of opinion. Does one of you have the CRD+ version (with heavier springs and more track focus)?
Also, I am sure someone said the CRDs were a bit firm on poor road surfaces, but also read elsewhere they are more road focused and smooth out these imperfections at the cost of not being so sharp handling. Again I am thinking, have we got different springs affecting things, the CRD+ question again?
Sorry to ramble, but this could be expensive if I get it wrong, and I would be mighty p!ssed if I bought a set and only got upto 345 ride height - really want around 360. It is not a track car, and comfort is much more important than lap times to me.
The TEIN literature offers massive ride height adjustment, but no one seems to have them. No opinions. So I would lean to paying the extra for the CRD IF I was sure they were going to work for me, and the biggest fear is the ride height question.
Can anyone cast any light on this for me? I will phone Bofi or someone, but would rather get your views before I talk to a salesman.
@MickAP @gareth_j @dgarside or anyone else on CRDs, can you chip in?
If anyone fancies a tea and a chat about such things, I live very near Rykas Boxhill for a meet up, but happy to travel a bit.
So I’ve started doing this today and with the holes on the side of the coil over bottoms, you can see where the thread gets to and therefore know you’re above the 25mm. Fronts I moved to 345 and no problems. I’ve moved rears (1 side so far) to 350 and doesn’t seem to be a problem. I’ve got one rear to do and will double check thread to be on safe side.
BTW adjusting rears is a massive ball ache due to access, fronts are a piece of cake.