I’m looking for technical help or recommendations on: __removing driver’s seat
Had my new to me (2012) nc2 at my local garage this afternoon - mainly to check the condition of the gearbox oil as am finding the gears a bit notchy and awkward on selection and bite point on clutch not ideal. The guys at the garage agreed with me that the bite point is very low and you have to have your foot fully planted to the floor otherwise it’s difficult. Gear box and diff oils have never been changed (45k miles done) so they are going to be done in the next week or so. One chap tried to get under and to the back of the clutch pedal (to try and adjust the pushrod length) but failed as access is so flippin difficult! Clearly removing driver’s seat would certainly help and give more room to manoeuvre andI might attempt to take the seat out myself but looking at rear of the seat (at floor level) there a one big hex bolt securing the bracket to the floor, then slightly forward of that I see two more bolts right next to each other. Which ones need to be removed to enable the seat to be taken out?
Of course you also need to unclip the electric block under the seat, for safety disconnect the battery first as you probably have an airbag in the side of the seat.
Thank you for the info, RichardFX.
Still a bit unsure on the procedure. You say loosen the 12mm lock nut, clockwise, away from the bracket. OK with that. Your step 8 says ‘wind out the pushrod a whole turn’…so that’s clockwise, yes? How do you do that - is the 10mm nut I see above the lock nut on your picture fixed and you put your spanner on it to actually turn the pushrod in or out?
Is clutch pedal travel the total distance from clutch in the fully up position right down to the point it is pushed to the floor?
If you find the 12mm lock nut very tight, would a squirt of WD40 be worth doing?
Only read the intro to your post re seat removal.
As with Richard’s post re adjustment of the clutch travel follow that, no need for seat removal. Push the seat right back on the rails and place a small step/stool, ideally the same height as the door sill, against the sill and you can use this to balance your rear end on whilst laying on your back adjusting the pedal travel inside the footwell.
It’s awkward but doable, even for an oldie like me😁
Thanks MickAP, sorry to be a pain (and possibly a bit thick here!?) but these posts have confused me again. Not quite sure of the distinction between ‘pedal travel’ and bite point height. CBRDEANO puts it nice and clearly in three steps, which mirrors what the guy on this Youtube video demonstrates Clutch Adjustment On NC MX5. At the end of the day, it’s the clutch bite point I really want to raise up a decent amount.
Yes clutch bite point👍
That adjustment as Richard explains you need to loosen off the lock nut on the rod larger nut, then twiddle the rod or smaller nut (10mm) around one full turn. This should bring the clutch bite point or as also explained the pedal bite point position off of the carpet, the whole reason for the adjustment.
Be careful not to adjust it too much, it needs small amounts at a time. You may have to get under there to adjust more than once.
I’ve done this on two NC’s took a couple of tries on one of them to get that clutch pedal adjustment just right for me.
Does make a huge difference in the change but on some cars gear boxes they can still feel notchy until warmed up.
Loads of questions are asked about the notchy gear change on the NC, usually the 6 speeder. Pedal bite point first if you feel you have to bury the pedal in the carpet to get a decent change. Then if not been done, change the gear oil, also check and grease the gear stick shift and top up the turret oil, that all helps.
You can also learn to change gears differently, sounds a bit odd but you have to adapt to driving and changing gear when they are cold
Anyways get the pedal bite point sorted first other stuff later👍
After the clutch bite point - I also changed the limit plate.
Not sure what mileage you have on but at around 78k - my limit plate was worn.
The 1st to 2nd shift felt better after changing it.
