New buyer looking for some advice!

I’ve just sold our 2nd car so I’m looking for a new longterm project/fun car. Never had a 2 seat convertible, and always had an MX-5 itch, so considering scratching it :slight_smile:

General car history … had a few JDM cars over the years - Celica GT-4, Mazdaspeed RX-8, Silvia S15 - so keen to stay with something Japanese.

Budget up to say £20k, but I’m not sure whether to go down the NC or ND route (and if I go ND whether I’d go RF).

I’d like it to be a long term car - something I can make my own and keep.

  • If I want to keep it long-term, then that makes me think ND over NC (i.e. newer will last longer)
  • Will anything I get die of rust regardless (I’m hearing all MX-5s are pretty susceptible)?
  • Are there any particular versions to avoid/look for? There’s a LOT of variants
  • Do they all have an LSD?

I’d like to do some mods, both performance and cosmetic.

  • Is there a significantly better selection of mods/upgrades for the NC over the ND?
  • Is the NC easier to work on?

Potentially considering a supercharger or turbo at some stage.

  • Is this easier on one car over the other?
  • I’ve read stories about the ND gearbox being weak?

I’m kinda going round in circles atm so any advice (including maybe other cars I should consider) would be welcome :smiley:

Hello Soul, welcome aboard.

Others with more experience are sure to chip in but my gut feeling is that a late NC will offer more options for tuning than the ND.
There are performance enhancements for the ND of course but with the NC having been around longer it may give you more scope.

Keep us all in the loop with your thinking. It will be enjoyable to share your adventure.

Cheers,
Guy

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For that budget I’d look at a 2013-2015 folding-hard-top “Sport” or “Venture”.

Then you can pour the leftover money into BBR power upgrades and other such parts.

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You could be right :slight_smile:
Is 2013 when the last version of the NC was out?
Am I right in thinking all the 2L cars with hard top had the LSD?

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All 2 litre NC (apart from the Powershift) had LSD regardless of being soft top or Roadster Coupe.

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The 3.75 version came into production late 2012 ready for the 2013 year.
Finished in 2015.
2.0 models Sport Tech and Venture.
With variations on a theme for those.
All depends whether you like brown seats or not.
We love our 2013 2.0 Sport Tech PRHT.
Good luck in your quest and choice. :+1:

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Are there any buyers guides well-recommended by members here?

For all I know the first one I see could be ‘the one’ but I guess a list of obvious red flags and ‘in the know’ checks would be useful

Have a look here Our Guide to Buying a Classic MX5

:heart:

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Awesome, thank you!

From scouting the usual sites, it looks like a low mileage (say < 40k) 3.75 is between £10-12k. Does that sound about right?

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Sounds about right in the price range.
I’d go for a late model, an NC 3.75 model circa 2014> there are a few 2015 models about.
One of the last ‘special editions’ is the 25th anniversary, excellent condition, low mileage examples hold their price, probably from £12k to £14k.
You are correct in thinking rust is their enemy, all models really unless it’s been fully undersealed or had little to no use on wet winter roads. Do check all models on the undersides.

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If it’s got some rust is it a no-go? Or is it something that can be fixed relatively easily?

Just wondering how many completely rust-free ones there are likely to be given our weather…

At 10+ years old there’s bound to be rust underneath unless it’s been garaged all it’s life and has a very low mileage. Expect to find some, it depends how badly it’s been let go before anyone thought about protecting it. These can rot through in that time especially around the lower rear wheel arches and rear sill areas. They can also have anything up to 6 owners over that period, maybe none thought of any future protection.
You could be lucky and get a one previous owner, low mileage, undersealed from new and cosseted from day one car, they take some finding though. I got lucky with my latest, it’s an ND though, 10 years old zero rust cosseted from day one from the one previous owner.

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Thanks - very helpful.

I guess I’m not sure how to tell ‘bad case of rust - run away’ from ‘normal rust - this is ok just then do something about it’.

I’ve generally bought new or nearly new cars in the past…

I would say check the MOT history of any potential car purchase first before even going to view one. If an advert doesn’t show the reg then ask the seller for it. If the MOT check shows up any mention of rust even if an advisory then that’s sort of a red flag straight away. If it ever failed with a rust problem then I’d tend to look elsewhere. Tyre advisories or brakes can be sorted but again if the advisory crops up again the following MOT then it tells you more about what kind of ownership it’s had, it may not have had a very loving one.
I’d say you main concern is rust on the NC, especially the earlier models, at 10 or 11 years you stand a better chance of finding one in decent condition underneath but don’t think it will be, get down and take a look underneath there.

Hah yeah my problem is when I’m under there, I’m not sure what counts as ‘normal’ rust for age of car vs ‘terminal’. But definitely will be checking MOT histories etc.

It will be difficult tbh to see much under an MX-5, best look from under the rear for an idea of rear subframe rust and general condition etc. You won’t be able to see much from the side of the car, important for looking at sills, nor the rear lower wheel arches, they are cover with a liner..
I was fortunate on one of my NC purchases to have the garage owner (Roddisons) put it on the ramp to inspect, great if that happens.

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There’s a few at Mazda dealers. I wonder if that would be a safer bet

Anyone heard of Mortimer Cars https://www.mortimercars.co.uk ?

They seem to have a few in stock and are pretty local to me.

Did all the UK ND2s get the reversing camera? I’ve seen some advertised with the higher power engine but no camera on the rear bumper so trying to work out how to easily tell from the photos which are definitely ND2.

Edit: Looking at the redline seems to be the surest way to tell.