New member needing track day prep help!

Hi Everyone

Brand new to the forum and looking for advice on who has what set up on their track/road NC. I have recently purchased (8 days ago) a NC 2.0 Sportech and I want to get it set up for track days, mainly at Brands Hatch as it is 15 mins from my house. I am sure this is covered across lots of different threads but I thought it might be a good idea as a conversation starter.

I am thinking the following for the car

  1. Coliovers (not sure if GAZ or Meistertec)
  2. Uprated brakes (what is everyone running)
  3. Anti roll bar upgrade and bushes
  4. Tyres (need to be road legal as well)
  5. Roll bar (not looking for a full cage)
  6. Buckets and harnesses
    Plus anything else that you guys would recommend. Not looking at anything engine related etc at this time, I didn’t buy it to go crazy fast in a straight line its all about the corners. I have owned an NA and NC before but going back over 10 years and never set one up for the track. I am so happy to get behind the wheel of one again, had a number of modern BMW M cars in the last 5 years and you forget that you don’t need 400-500 BHP to have loads of fun.

Also looking for some advice on firms local to Kent but I would travel, to carry out the work.

Thanks

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That looks mint and tbh its a bit of a shame to be a pure track day tool.
The PHRC is also a bit heavier so the softop would be a better choice.

If its a car you will be using on road and also use on track then you are kinda in the same boat with me.
I would recommend the BBR 185 with GT back box. It sounds awesome and +25 bhp from stock. I also wouldn’t personally go for a turbo. The car will teach you a lot and the power is more than enough.

Mine has an output 187Bhp @7350RPM and 157Lb.ft @4300RPM (86db @5000RPM)
Ohlins Road & Track Coilovers (you could also go for BR or Gaz)
Wheel geometry setup and weight balanced by Paul Roddison (he knows his stuff)
Tyres Michelin 215/45/R17 PS5

I have the IL motorsport under chassis braces. For the engine brace I would say the Ultra Racing Front Upper Brace, 4 Point Mount is stiffer (I have one but haven’t fitted that yet)

I also went for a cybul Roll bar. IMHO its probably the best one out there in terms of fitment plus you avoid the GB fabrications long waiting queues. I bought mine from BOFI (waiting for it to arrive any day now)

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  • MeisterR CRD’s a reasonable price/performance package.
  • Standard discs and Roddisons pads.
  • Whiteline ARB’s.
  • Bushes depending on what miles it’s done this far.
  • Nankang NS-2R’s, roadworthy semi slicks.
  • Cybul roll bar.
  • Buckets and harnesses…the NC is a bit of an expensive pig to adapt for bucket seats. Harnesses for road use is a difficult way to drive too (unless you got a neck like a Giraffe).

When you’re ready and your pocket has recovered, a 4-1 manifold, an improved air filter and a map/tune will improve things across the rev range.

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I see this all the time, shopping lists of what you must do.
Take it to track, drive it, then see what you want to do from there.
You can spend thousands and thousands of pounds on stuff and not even know what and why about it.

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Well the bloke seemed that he wanted what set up people use for their track/road NC, that suggest he wanted something more towards a track focused vehicle.

Regardless a proper roll bar will save your head so if you want to do a mod, definitely consider that one.

However I wholeheartedly agree with what you said. If you want to make up your own mind do take it to track, drive it, then see what you want to do from there.

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Totally this.
If it has decent tyres, the brake pads and disks still have plenty of life in them, take it to Brands and off you go.
Cybul roll bar is good and you can never be too safe, I waited three months for mine though. Order it and forget about it until it arrives. I fitted it myself so it cannot be that hard.
Coil-overs - MeisterR CRD + geo
Plain Brembo disks when they need to be replaced along with Roddison pads
Plenty of choice of tyres out there
Buckets and harnesses - see how you get on first, so far I haven’t felt the need

Just track it, you will love it and soon know what direction you need to go. For me, I am the biggest weakness not the car so spending money on an Instructor is highest on the list

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Yeah I was thinking about getting an old ratty one but I wanted a solid base to start with and keeping it road legal for a few B road blasts. Thanks for the advice on set up, I have been looking at the Cybul and think I will be purchasing in the next 24 hours or so. I want to get the car ready for the sunshine

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Thanks, I had not thought to heavily about the ARB’s and bushes. Where did you get yours from? Again loads of options on these, I want to make the best choices and not really looking to scrimp on the set up.

I understand what you are saying but I have owned dozens of cars and I do not want to turn up in a standard car and waste the day. I will gradually improve the car over time but as a base I want a roll bar, coilovers and tyres sorted.

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That sounds like the set up I have had in my head. It is good to hear it is already on your car. Never been so excited to spend a load of money on bits. I agree on the instruction, I have already started to make enquiries for this as well.

IIRC, I picked it up at Bofi Racing. I also grabbed adjustable drop links from IL Motorsport but I see now Bofi are offering the whole shebang including drop links in their website ad.

Whiteline Adjustable Anti Roll Bar Kit For Mazda MX-5 NC | BOFI Racing This one?

Tbh i don’t really think you need to change the antiroll bars or the link ends. The car even on the bilstein sport suspension it drives well if the suspension is still working. Granted the chassis will be moving a bit on track but its not too bad.

Honestly drive it on track first at least once

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This. 100% agree. You also get the added benefit/bonus of remembering how it felt before the mods. You can then decide for yourself if it was money well spent or a nice-to-have. Please forgive me if I am teaching my grandmother to suck eggs. I purchased mine in a “track-ready” condition and love it but I will always wonder what it was like without the upgrades. I have driven a standard NC a couple of times but have never owned a standard NC.

I have a brand new 5-Race roll-bar, still in the box, it was included in the sale price of the car. I will fit it when the weather gets warmer. Part of me is interested to see how much of a difference it will make to the stiffness. People often slate the standard roll-bar as not being up to the job but I have a suspicion it is a well designed and thoroughly tested piece of safety equipment. I am interested to see if I can feel any difference when the aftermarket item is in place.

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I hired a instructor for 3 laps at Bedford Autodrome which was really helpful and taught me alot.

Good luck with your track day.

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This is great advice…if the car holds up as well as it looks then you shouldn’t have to many problems, but its a good idea to “shakedown” the car and make sure it doesn’t have any major issues.

Just helps rule out any issues further down the line.

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I would suggest that you need to change the brake fluid and pads so that they can cope with trackdays as a base, before a rollbar, tyres & coilovers.

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Yeah I have owned one before years back and in a previous life as a car salesman, I actually worked at a Mazda main dealer and sold these new. I have always loved MX5’s and so happy to have one as a toy/project

Thanks all for the advice. I have ordered
Cybul roll bar
White line ARB kit
Carbotech front pads
EBC Yellow stuff rear pads
Brembo discs
HEL braided lines
MeisterR CRD coilovers
Panel filter
Full service kit
4 Michelin PS4’s

Further down the line will do seats, harnesses and maybe some engine mods. Can’t wait for the postman to arrive :grin:

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Great stuff.
I really enjoyed doing as much of the work myself as I could. It had been many years since I last did any work on cars.
It also helps with costs and familiarises you with the car and how it all works.
Worth checking things like drop links whilst poking about, they are cheap to replace