Ok. Thank you. Would 30mm drop or 345mm wheel centre to arch be the same in the front and back? Some posts have been reporting different heights, only slightly, front and rear. I’m guessing it might be something to do with the Sportives using 6kg/mm front springs, 5kg/mm rear springs?
I just wanted to add that I did a quick Google search for the stock height of a 2006 NC and this is what it came back with.
“The default stock ride height of a Mazda MX-5 2006 NC right hand drive is 356mm - 405mm for the front and 354mm - 403mm for the rear with 16” wheels.”
After crunching some numbers this morning 
I’m kind of thinking that perhaps I should hold off on getting coilovers at this time and put the money towards a new set of tyres, installing the rear brakes and pads and getting the wheel alignment and body work done?
The condition of the current suspension isn’t awful according to the mechanicand seem to be fine still. Comfort wise they seem fine as well. The car has done 46000miles and so replacing them was more of a nice to have than a necessity.
Also another thing is that I might end up regretting getting coilovers because of the condition of the back roads out here. I suppose I would always have to be mindful about bottoming out if I did decide to go with coilovers? I’m not sure?
But yeah… I think that should be the plan for now.
Next task is finding the right tyres.
Any suggestions? I’ve already been advised not to get Falken or Runway brand tyres.
The Michelin pilot sport 4 seem to be the ones most highly recommended at the moment. My current type of tyre are 205/50 R16.
The Michelin pilot sport 4 only come in 205/55 for R16. Will that be ok?
Thanks again for any replies. I really appreciate it. 
Thank you for this. 
It’s a US website and it’s crazy to see how many types of tyres are available.
Is Yokohama well considered?
if you ask my opinion and considering you cant get a Michelin PS5 on a 16" wheel I’d go Michelin PS4 for your car. I would use yokohama Kumho Toyo, Falken and all the main brands for a family car but in a car I want to make sure I have the best grip possible (and we are not talking about track tyres) I’d always go Michelin.
again… others opinion will vary…
Consider Rainsport 5’s too.
Thanks guys.
Uniroyal RainSport 5
205/50 R16 V (87)
Car Tyre
£115.08
Quantity
4
-+
£460.32
Michelin Pilot Sport 4
205/55 R16 Y (94)
Car Tyre - Reinforced
£107.75
Quantity
4
-+
£431.00
The garage charge £72 for the 4 wheel alignment. 
So, going the Michelin Pilot 4 route with 4 wheel alignment it’s £503. Does it make much of a difference that they are 205/55 compared to the current 205/50’s?
I’ve cancelled my open ID-Workz MeisterR Sportive order, so that will cover the cost of the tyres.
I think I’ll also call the tyre fitters tomorrow morning to ask if they are able to do the rear discs and pads at the same time. So perhaps, if I’m lucky that will be close to the same amount I paid for the Coilovers? 
Another question I had about the changing the disc and pads…
As you know, I bought the rear discs and pads from Eurocarparts already. Brembo brand.
On Reddit someone’s reply was this:
“Mixing and matching pad compounds will still mess the the brake balance.”
I checked what pads I have on the front and they are Apec. Is the above statement true? Should I consider having to change the front pads at the same time?
Thanks again guys! I really appreciate it.
55’s will make your speedo read wrong .
Brakes pads 'are OK to mix but not on the same axel. The front brakes do most of the work to stop you .That’s the reason why they need to be replaced more then the rear’s do .Rear pad’s should last more then twice the time as the front’s
That’s interesting. So is that a no to the Michelin pilot 4’s?
According to this link https://tiresize.com/calculator/ It’s only a small variation? 2mph more? Am I understanding that correctly.
Good to know. Thank you!
if a car going a bit faster than the indicated speed means you will actually get closer to the real speed of the vehicle as all speedos (at least the ones I have driven) always under predict.
its about brake bias. the system on your car is sized so that the stopping power you apply on the pedal is distributed by the brake servo and valve to the front ant rear callipers (60/40 or whatever is for the mx5). now if you change for example the front road pads (on both axles) to another road pad but different brand it will have perhaps a different friction coefficient but in bulkpark it be similar.
if you use for example trackpads or buy (as “usual” mod rx8 front rotors and calipers) then if you dont calculate the correct brake fluid flow distribution and change the bias valve then your front/back brake bias will be the original bias of “60/40” but something different - a result that maybe intended or not.
so yes you have to change both sided of the axle and its advised to change all pads for the same brand so it be balanced but in practice for a road car you probably be ok and you wont even notice a difference. My suggestion pick your favourite brand for whatever needs replacing and use those until the other axle needs replacing.
Ok. That’s really great and helpful explanation. Thank you!
So it looks like it’s all coming together.
I read this article which helped explain the 205/50 Vs 205/55. https://tireblogger.com/205-55r16-vs-205-50r16-tire-size/?utm_content=cmp-true
Essentially I’ll be fine using the Michelin Pilot Sport 4’s 205/55 R16’s, in fact it might be a better tyre suited for the country roads because it’s slightly larger and provides a bit more cushioning so that’s a plus, but will be slower on the acceleration and might be little less fuel efficient… but it’s ever so marginal that it might not even be noticed.
I’ll give the garage a call in the morning but I’ll order the tyres and get that booked in for Wednesday along with the alignment. So that’s exciting. 
I’m just wondering about the condition of the rear wheel hubs. As I’m about to put the car in to get the tyres, brakes, dust shields done tomorrow… Is there a way to get rid of and clean up the rust from the hubs themselves?
They look pretty shabby and it would be nice to get them looking new again if possible.
I had a look on you tube and it looks like you need to have at it with a wire brush and light sanding disc.
I’ll ask if the garage in the morning if the wouldn’t mind buffing it out real quick. Might be an idea.
Quite easy to give them a quick clean up and paint
Nice!
I can always ask if they could give it a quick spray. Worst they could say is no.
I haven’t researched it yet, but would removing the wheels after the tyres and alignment is done mean that I would have to get another alignment done?
Just thinking about getting round to it if they aren’t able to do so. But it would be nice if they could as they are putting new discs on.
I thought the part you’re asking about is part of the disc?
No re alignment needed if you take the wheels off to paint discs and calipers
Ok. Cool.
Sorry for all the questions. This is the first car that’s actually made me interested in knowing everything there is about the car. I’m obsessed with trying to absorb as much information but I’m going to have a lot of daft questions as I’m a real newbie when it comes to car mechanics… 
If you are having the Brembo discs fitted to the rears (as mentioned) mine came already with a paint protection. That rusty part you picture is part of the disc, some do rust badly if unprotected but if changing no need for painting.
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its platina… dont worry about it
Its probably self explanatory but dont put spray any oil or grease or similar onto the disk to try prevent corrosion and contaminate the pads.