Newbie NB Buyer looking for advice

Hi all,

I hope you are all well

I’m a new member from Scotland, excited to start my journey owning my first sports car/project car/MX-5.

I’ve been drawn towards the NB models and I am just looking for a wee bit of advice.

I’ve mainly been looking at getting a 1.8 as from what I can tell the gearbox is a bit more reliable when starting to add power to the car compared to the box you get with the 1.6?

Also seen that some of the models of NB come with a LSD from factory?

Just wondering how true both of these are and if they are both worth it over getting alternative models.

I’m looking for one around £1.5-3k and I’m aware I wont get a show car for these prices and that a bit of rot is expected. What are the main places I should be checking when buying the car or would it be the usual suspects (sills, arches & jacking point). I will be looking at getting all maintenance done before adding any ‘mods’ to the car so trying to figure out how difficult this will be and how expensive/worth it getting the car undersealed will be?

If there is anything else I should be considering or looking our for that I have missed it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks & I am looking forwards to everyone response !!

Welcome, you may like to check out this Our biggest Mk2.5 MX5 customer project yet starts - whats going on in the workshop 62 - The MX5 Restorer video.
There may be some more videos on their site that would also give you some direction.
:heart:

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Thank You !!

Just had a quick scan through their site as I’m in work but I’ll definitely give that a watch once I get home !

Just Read your post.
If your looking for a 1.8 with a 5 speed box and aTorsen LSD as standard plus a few more factory goodies keep your eyes peeled for a 1.8 i S.
Found mine by accident 7 years ago and have never looked back👍.

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Thanks for the reply,

I will definitely have a look into them, the torsen lsd would be great same with the 1.8.

Still unsure if a 5 speed box would be okay for when I decide to add power to the car in future as from what I can see everyone saying for anything 250+ should have the 6sp?

On UK NBs, a limited slip differential is generally fitted to 6-speed models. The exception is the very rare early “Sport” special edition, otherwise, UK Torsen NBs are 6 speed 10AEs or Icons. On late “Sport” models, the Torsen diff was dropped for a Fuji diff, which had a reputation for bits breaking off. An Hitachi-made Torsen diff was used on the non-UK Mazdaspeed Turbo model.

Front chassis rail is a killer for these models, particular if near the subframe mounting points. They can be patched up, but ultimately the car is doomed unless it has a very expensive complete stripdown, and full replacement of the legs with Mazda items intended for crash repairs; these appear to be single skin, not double skin, so will last longer.

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When I got my - '02 NBFL SV-T Sport 7 years ago the only buy criteria was that it should be red I had no idea what I was letting myself in for, it was going to 2 be a fun toy which I could afford to scrap after 2 years and move on. Instead I found my self with a rusty car and having had the water pump done as a precaution I was loath to let it fail it’s MOT the following year for want of an exhaust repair. From then on I stopped counting the cost and got all the rust sorted as and when I could afford it, this included chassis rails, cills 1/4 panels and o/s/r wing in one hit 3 years into ownership. I then added the suspension and remaining 3 wings to the pending list. I spent two years accumulating an entire new suspension set, springs, shocks, arms, bushes, ball joints, arbs, and anti roll bars with every last nut bolt and washer all OEM and six years in had the whole lot done complete with the three remaining wings a complete respray and underseal treatment. During that time I have driven the car over 80k fun filled miles and hope it will last 9 or 10 years by which time I might just be able to think about turning in my licence. Work still to be done is refreshing the electircs though this will prove difficult with all new OEM components as the ECU in particular is no longer available. The way I see it if there is any other car I would have liked with the money I spent I might have been able to buy it. But quite simply there isn’t. If I were younger I’d have no hesitation in buying a second to run as a track car. Don’t let rust put you off just be prepared to dig deep to either sort it or get it sorted.

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Thanks for the reply

That’s great thank you I found it quite hard to find a definitive list on which ones came with what diff, I also didn’t know there was multiple LSDs that it could come with. I’ll try get one with a Torsren diff ideally then.

How would be best for checking that as there aren’t many near me (Glasgow) so would be travelling quite far to view one?

Thank you for the reply

Really appreciate this, they definitely seem to be the best ‘drivers’ and ‘project’ cars from what I can tell absolutely everyone that owns one loves one

This has also given me a bit of inspiration to not be put off from some of them that do have a bit of rust as I will want to get the car sitting perfectly. Looking at getting a council lockup or 20ft container to work on it but unsure of the space I’d have in one.

Do you have any photos of your car would love to see it :slight_smile:

Was getting the rust sorted and under sealing alright to do your self, I don’t have any experience doing this but would love to learn. I’m starting spray painting & welding in collage come August so feel this would be something that would come in handy in future knowing how to do

SFAIK unfortunately the only way to know which LSD is fitted to a car you buy is by taking the drive shafts out and counting the splines on the LSD end, all LSD casings look the same. Some cars at this age will have had LSD swaps for any number of reasons which adds further confusion.

As has been said if the car is fitted with a a 1.8 vvt engine and six speed box it will have been fitted with an LSD by the factory. Some earlier pre face lift NB’s with 1.8 engines and Sport spec had LSD
as standard too.

If you are unsure comeback and ask and someone should be able to confirm.

Regarding getting the work done, I had neither the experience, welding or mechanical, 2 post lift or space I considered necessary to get the job done comfortably. Others have undertaken everything I did and more on their drive way so it can be done DIY but I would not recommend it if you are not above changing spark plugs and airfilter level of competance.

Photo’s can be seen here on a very happhazard thread about Madge :- Madge the odyssey continued

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Fun car’s! Have you considered a mk3 nc sport 2.0 6 speed and LSD :ok_hand:

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Apologies late reply, but thank you again for the information

I’ll keep that in mind and once I see a couple I can post on the thread and ask if anyone could help identify which LSD came with the model

I’m leaning towards the styling off the NB2 and all the wee extras it came with other than I’ve seen people say the VVT engine is more complicated when adding power?

I’m starting collage in August doing Spray Painting & Welding, I’ve a little experience but not much so far but this should help. I appreciate the confirmation that I wouldn’t need a full garage ect to get everything done too & I think it would be a fun & rewarding learning curve

Beautiful car appreciate the thread response

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I’ve not really looked into the NCs, few of my pals have had NB which is what first got me drawn to them plus I LOVE the styling on them. They are right in budget as well which is ideal for me. Didn’t know the NC were 2.0 though

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When buying I was only interested in red, firtunately the second red one I saw was my S-VT Sport which unknown to me at the time had all the desirable bits though not the Bilstein shocks which some later models came with.

If ULEZ kompliance is likely to be an issue you need to check each one not all VVT’s are ULEZ kompliant my '02 is, my friends '03 with a 5 speed is not, no 1.6’s are ULEZ compliant SFAIK.

1.6 is the stronger block for boost but the 1.8 should be fine unless you are going for mega 300 plus bhp.

You can thank Ken Saward for the superb styling :- https://www.roadandtrack.com/car-culture/a21286902/theres-a-good-reason-why-the-nb-miata-and-dodge-viper-look-similar/

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The 1998-2000 1.8iS and 1998-99 “Sport” (watch out for tarted up ordinary cars sold as a “Sport” special edition) had a 5-speed with a 4.1 final drive JTEKT/Zexel Torsen T2 differential. The problem is, 25 years on, cars have had so many wheel swaps etc, it becomes hard to tell a standard 1.8 from a 1.8iS, as the major visual addition was 15" wheels.

10AE and Icon (the early version, not “Icon 2”) came with a 6-speed box and a JTEKT/Zexel 3.909 final drive Torsen T2 differential.

All 1.8 manual Japanese imports of this period had the 6-speed box and a 3.909 final drive Torsen T2 differential. Many imports would have come in during 2005-2010, and may have a lot less rust. But they are most costly or harder to insure.

There is a source claiming all of the JDM NB 1.6 models had the JTEKT/Zexel 4.300 final drive T2 differential, making this the same ratio as the T1 diff in the NA RS-Limited, and exactly the same diff as the Phase 2 NA 1.8 in Japan. If that’s true, for hillclimbs, that the most desirable diff out of the scrapyard. But I don’t think this is correct.

Late on, the parts list DO show a 4.300 LSD ringset for the facelift NB. I think this is a spare part for the clubman spec NR-A, which was a track special 1.6, and the Web Roadsters.

The face lifted car came in during 2000. LSD was fitted to 6-speed models. The Japanese model in 2000 is listed with a 3.909 final drive LSD, which I believe would have been the unburstable Torsen T2 differential. However the UK December 2001 technical spec lists the Sport as having a 3.636 final drive. Note the UK car developed a lot less power 146PS @ 7000rpm versus a heady 160 PS @ 7000rpm. At the time, this created controversy because Mazda “accidently” used Japan numbers in US brochures, resulting in a law suit and Mazda compensating owners.

I’ve never noticed before, but the JDM 1.6s are also up on power, about the same as the Mk1 1.8. Anyone with a naturally aspirated 1.6 Mk1 with 125hp would have been pretty happy that the £1000 spent on Racing Beat intakes and exhausts paid off,

In Japan, they never adopted the 3.636 diff. The Mazdaspeed Turbo Roadster in Japan retained the 3.909 diff, but the US version had a 4.100 diff, reportedly a Hitachi built Torsen.

Some time in 2003, the differential switch from the JTEKT/Zexel/Hitachi Torsen differential to the notorious Tochigi Fuji Super Lsd, the same diff fitted to NCs. Some of these, at least for the owners who bothered to look, had lumps of clutch plate fall out with the oil. I woudln’t be surprised if there is a lot of these cars still with original differential oil in. No reports of anything bad happening, except that the diff might revert to being an open diff. That owners can’t tell might be telling about the true lock up ratios of these Torsens.

Whats the practical difference between a 3.9 and a 3.6 diff. The 3.6 diff car will be faster off the mark but pulling higher RPMs at motorway speeds, so noisier and thirstier. So the Japanese face lift cars will feel a lot quicker than the British equivalents. Plus less rust.

The 6 speed box isn’t just a 5 speed with an extra gear. The 6-speed is an Aisin AZ6 box also used in a number of Toyotas and Nissans. The earlier 5-speed was Mazda built, and during the NB lifespan, Mazda switched to Aisin for the 5-speed. Aisin 6-speeds are stronger boxes, but the original 5-speed isn’t really known for being weak.

Rare UK 1.8iS Sport (Autotrader), with the correct bodykit. Both arches have rotted. Typical histpry of rotted sills, front chassis leg rot. Interior ok. £2700.

Standard early NB UK interior

Standard early NB JDM interior

LSD part numbers for JDM NBs

NB1, NB2, NB3 (anything below NB8-4000000); MM03-27-200
NB4; MS01-27-200
NB4 Turbo; MM04-27-200B

Phase 2 T2 Torsen NA8: MM02-27-200A
Phase 1/ 1.5T1 Torsen NA8: MM01-27-200 (the RS and R limited had different final gear sets)

Personally, I would forget about looking for a car specifically with a LSD. Its always been the adage buy on condition not spec, and that’s never been truer but for the NB. There seem to be a extremely large number of tired and abused NBs on sale; many seem to have lead a harder life than the NAs. Or maybe all the really terrible NAs have gone.

A car with LSD is more likely to have been ragged. I also wouldn’t rule out a 1.6 NB; more likely to have a more careful owner. Yes, down on power, but the 1.8 s hardly a powerhouse. You can turbocharge the NB 1.6 if you want. The B6 is a revvier lump than the BP. The Japanese parts lists indicate that the final gear set on the open 4.3 diff is exactly the same as the 4.3 gear set listed for the LSD in th final NBs, suggesting you can use bits from a 1.6 diff to change a fuji 3.6 diff from a scrapped car to 4.3. Which is also interesting if you get one of the late 5 speed 1.8 special editions, which will have a 4.100 final drive.

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Hi.
If you need any help with insurance at all for any model you’re looking at then please feel free to drop me a line.
Regards,
Dan.

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Do love them in the red but as I’m starting spray painting in college & hopefully as an apprentice soon I’m not too bothered about colour unless I get one that’s limited production. (probably silver as seem to have lowest average cost)

ULEZ shouldn’t affect me so not worried about that as I will still have my daily driver as well

Didn’t know the 1.6 was stronger block for boost never seen anyone mention anything about either engine other than the 6 speed box is stronger & I think only came with the 1.8?

Will need to weigh up what would be better running to 250ish in future but that’s for future me would like to enjoy the car and get all maintenance & bodywork done before I get to that stage.

That’s quite a cool fact always thought the NB looked like a mini Viper

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Dont forget Hiroshima factory boosted the 1840cc as well..about 180bhp I think.. which if my short passenger run on a track day was anything to go by…was more than plenty!Same BHP as a Police Senator ( not the 24 valve 205 Bhp) with only 2/3rds the weight. You may imagine. Id say from years of reads dont go over 200 bhp.

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The factory 1.8 Mazdaspeed turbo had a LOT of internal upgrades over the standard BP, to maintain reliability, even though it was quite a low boost setup. Boosted MX5s might be quicker, but not as reliable. And that’s not gotten any better 20 years on. Ok for occasionally driven cars than enjoy higher than average levels of maintenance.

These are all quite old cars now; in all liklihood, the majority of the first owners will nnow be drawing a pension. So its probably better to be more mechanically sympathetic to the car.

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