- My model of MX-5 is: __mk1
- I’m based near: __northampton
- I’m looking for technical help or recommendations on: __suspected faulty coilover
So I’ve just fitted a set of gaz gold pro’s to my car and the rear left makes an awful clanging noise which sometimes sounds like loose locking rinds to loud contact noises. So a couple of times I’ve had it on the ramp and everything is tight and as it should be, the only thing that is noticeably different to the other three is a loud squirting noise which sounds like oil and air travelling through the valve inside the body, I’ve been advised to remove the coilover, remove the spring from the damper, fully compress and extend the damper a few times to se if this remedies the issue. I have one problem with this, if the air got in once it will get in again surely? To my mind it seems faulty and could simply be replaced under warranty. I will post a video shortly showing the sound it makes.
It turns out I can’t post a video, if anyone knows a way of linking to my video that would be good.
done it, I think 4 May 2023 - YouTube
Upload a video to youtube, then paste the link. You can set the video to private viewing so only someone with a link will find it.
Thanks take a look see what you think
Bad shock. The seal between the gas charge and oil has failed.
Depending where you are, you could take it to Iain Gardiner (IG Racing, Weillingborough) for a diagnosis. What he doesn’t know about Gaz (and Avo, Protec) probably isn’t worth knowing (Gaz shocks; good design, average quality control leading to significant failures, so he buys them “dry” and assembles them himself).
If you are lucky, Gaz will send out a replacement you can swap out. Send them the video,
Where is the link?
M-m
In the first post.
Just sounds like dry rubber, or its on a slightly different angle than the other, spray it with a silicon spray and see if it stops.
M-m
I did send the video and their response was, this is a screen shot of the email I received from Gaz.
This sounds like a cop out to me, I should just get a new shock not sending both the rear to them to drill and change the dynamics?!
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It’s not dry rubber
This footvalve issue has been cropping up on Gaz shocks since at least 2007. You will see on various forums someone called “The Gazman” talk about this; he is/was a Gaz dealer. In 2007, it was claimed Gaz redesigned the shock to get rid of this. Obviously they didn’t. There is some some suggestion that it comes about because of the use of too soft springs and/or a low rebound setting.
What you will find out now is the limitations of a relatively small manufacturer of shocks. I assume these are under warranty. What they won’t do is send you a replacement shock. They will try and fix what you have, which of course is no good to you, as it doubles the time your car is off the road. And how do you park up a car with no shocks on it.
The smallness of Protec (who actually wanted to sell me an upgraded version) was why I went to IG Racing for a rebuild.
I think the best I can expect from Gaz is me sending it in for a rebuild, the 0.5 hole referred to in Gaz’s email is an existing hole in the foot valve supposedly to make the damping more compliant, they’re initial solution is to change both rear foot valves for ones without holes 
?
But I reminded him that there was nothing wrong with the other rear so a rebuild of the faulty shock I think is preferable. There was no offer of sending me a replacement!
So, I got a replacement shock from mx5 parts but the noises were still present, I’ve now changed the two rear drop links and replaced the bushes on the anti roll bar, better but still too clunky bumpy clangy.
I’m now considering putting the old dampers back on with a set of eibach 30’s on, just pi***d off now, any thoughts?
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Bin them and fit meisters R’s.
M-m
Are you sure you have properly diagnosed the noise?
Is it on Mk1 or Mk2 top mounts? Most original Mk1 top mounts would be near collapse by now. If Mk2 top mounts; they are a simpler assembly, but most aftermarket Mk2 setups on a Mk1 make use of some universal bumpstop (I use a pair of Super Pros cut in half). They can take a bashing, and split.
If on Mk1 top mounts, clean up the shocks and bumpstop; not sure what you use for a bump stop, is it a factory one with a shredded gaiter. Stick a bit of french chalk on the top of the shock, go for a run, and see if the shock is hitting the bumpstop at the rear. Then adjust height up, or increase rebound setting a couple of clicks. I guess hitting the bumpstop a lot will cause a noise.
They are four brand new Gaz pro coil overs. Seriously im at my wits end! Binning em and buying some more expensive ones?! Not an option.
I can her we a sound like the lock rings are loose but when checked they are not, there are a few noises, so there’s the tinkling noise that sounds like the lock rings or washers there are creaking noises from the springs when turning in a car park at slow speed and some times and accompanying load thud with the tinkling.
It’s absolutely ridiculous I’ve spent £700 on these bits of sh*t and now considering selling em and installing the original dampers with eibach 30’s!.
OR MAYBE ILL CHUCK A MATCH UNDER IT AND WALK!
Ball joints?
If you’ve had the shocks serviced and the noises are still there I would take the car to an MX5 specialist that does this sort of setup work day in day out. Rodders in Sheff or example (who fitted my car’s suspension). I know MCR / Thrussington near Leicester (about an hour from Northampton?) run GAZ shocks on their MX5 race cars, so maybe there might be a good place to start (I’ve only used them for bodywork but was happy with what they did).
Ball joints? It seems every time i post this problem i get advised to purchase and change another part, parts i hasten to add never made a noise before im actually considering selling it having only owned it for a year it has spent most of that time on axle stands on the bloody drive. It’s just a damn money pit
Ball joints are easy to eliminate; jack up the wheel and try levering the joint.
If it moves any way in and out instead of simply swivel/rotate it is toast, expensive toast on some of our cars where it is part of the wishbone. A good MOT always looks for these failures.
Creaking on turn is a classic sound from a ball joint with split boots and going rusty inside.
However, a loose steering rack can also creak! Simply tighten the bolts securing it again.
The thing is before i owned it is was owned by lady that had it garaged all its life and when i bought it it only had 42k on the clock, its had a very pampered life…not sure where I was going with that, anyway so now im checking ruddy ball joints what about the top hats, as a part there’s not much i can see that can fail with them, can they really deteriorate that much?
Incidentally its now only done 50k and it was mot’d about a month ago with no issues