Hi I have recently collected my new (to me) True Red MX5 shes about 2.5 years old and have noticed several things i’d preffer not to be there.
Some silver paints spots, tiny but annoying
some light scratches
some polishing swirls
Can you please recommend me some products and cloth so I can restore her to her factory shine 
Try claying my choice would be Bilt Hamber Soft.
Light scratches try something like Menzerna 85RD/RE or Menzerna 203S for 2 and 3. Start out with 85RD as it is lighter than 203S, 203S can finish down nicely by hand or machine but give plenty of cut.
Jap paint is usually soft as butter and thin, however this is little more than a GUIDE, the rule of thumb always start lighter and go more aggressive, and sometimes require coming back down the grades again to.
Thanks for the quick reply, this detailing is alien to me.
In my bodyshop days it was simply G3 Compound or T Cut lol
What polish would you recommend?
TIA 
G3 is still in existance but for many is far far far to aggressive to produce a refined high quality finish on it’s own without refinement (potentially another one or two stages).
Honestly, I would go with Menzerna or Scholl these days. I of course do not have my own MX5 yet so difficult to say but my gut would be get a decent finishing and medium level polish, with polishing pads of polishing and finishing and should resolve all the issues.
My two would Menzerna 85RD/RE (there are two versions of this one is lubricated more than the other but not substanitally to change technique) there is 106 which is their other finishing one but I have never really enjoyed using it that much in comparison with the 85 versions.
Medium level ones I stick with 203S as it can be a decent reliable one stepper if you are in a hurry with some serious swirls, although go gentle with this on MX5 paint as on the whole it is thin and soft (for which I think much will be resolved by 85RD/RE).
Auto Glym Resin Polish is recommended, a good simple polish that fills light swirls. Not too expensive and I find it simple to use, two coats is better and you can follow up with Auto Glym Sealer if you wish.
Only issue with Super Resin is that the fillers will inevitably fall back and to get the best of many sealants you really need to be doing it on bare paint (i.e. without filler based products).
Fillers only really mask the issues, using straight polishes with a wipe down will remove them. On a car of the MX5’s size working a decent polish without fillers even by hand can be very effective with correct technique.
I would also use the Menzerna, my professional detailer used them on my one stage paint Red Mk1 to fantastic effect, the gloss shine is truly outstanding, to protect the finish it would require covering with a good quality wax or sealant.
If you have put all that effort in getting a spotless finish I would go coatings these days. Although, they can never match the warmth of wax if using proper washing techniques there should be no issue however in keeping swirls to a minimum.
What coating would you recommend, this really is a minefield to me. I thought i was being smart using a sealant rather than a wax so the other stuff is a little confusing.
There are quite a few on the market now so a quick sort of run through of the main protagonists, remember though that many of these are professional products so respect and understanding before use is essential.
Gtechniq C1+ or Exo.
Personally I would avoid Exo it is fantastic beading but cannot really stand up to chemical attack that well (on the quiet all purpose cleaner damages the water beading element of Exo).Hence why professional detailers use C1/C1+ as a base then Exo…
C1+ is decent and can withstand chemicals very well (and for the record anyone who uses or has used C4 and C5 well they are the same as C1)…
Concours Car Care Ceramishield (what my Volvo is wearing)
Same application nature, as C1 and same overall.
Carpro
C-Quartz UK and the other version - again pretty much the same as the others (I have very limited experience on this one however).
C-Quartz Finest is it’s twin brother a truly professional only product requiring serious PE and much stronger than every other product here.
22PLE - New kid on the block really - Very much like the other (except finest), and on the quiet was a version not accepted by Gtechniq for their new “C1” coating - I cannot say to much more.
Overall main aims of these are extended protection (around 2 years), not affected greatly by chemicals (meaning that you can put tar remover and iron removers on them without removing the coating - yes I have done this with ceramishield on the Volvo, no additional stuff added, and the beading and sheeting actually improved, owing to the surface being cleaner).
Only caveat read up well, make sure the car is in excellent condition so plenty of polishing before application, have plenty of time, do not sniff any of these products what so ever and enjoy.
If you are a little unsure you can get some of the buzz by using products like Gtechniq C1.5 Silo Seal which is old C1 but with water content to make it sprayable and a wipe on/off product.
Thanks for the information.
Looks like one of either the Ceramishield or the C1 will be on my shopping list at some point.
As you seem to be very knowlegable about detailing, can you tell us your thoughts on the Gtechniq G1/G4 glass treatment.
Never used it personally speaking but have plenty of views provided to me about the only thing is ensuring you follow the application the absolute letter otherwise it is a royal mess to remove.
I have had a different product on test on the front windscreen for over 1.5 years with little need to top up so the '5 will be getting that. Otherwise and maybe going against the grain here somewhat for everything bar the front windscreen just use a bog ordinary sealant - I have put C1.5 Silo Seal and Ceramishield on everything other than the windscreen and the same effects still happen as with G1 or G4 limit their use to just the windscreen in my view.
Oh right so you can use the C1 or cerameshield on the glass aswell? I’ll have to do some serious reading before embarking on the use of these products
I would never recommend them for a windscreen on a personal viewpoint as I do not really believe they are quite right for such a major point of the vehicle a more dedicated one is a must there but elsewhere yes.
Put simply ceramishield can go on paint, wheels, glass, trim and plastics anything bar rubber essentially. Hence why I also know the Gtechniqs C1,C4 and C5 are all exactly the same and that is from two current or former members of staff of Gtechniq themselves.
For air freshener - try Chemical Boy’s - Stripper Scent. I know, from the name you expect it to smell like sweaty five pound notes and shame but it’s actually bloody good 
Thanks for all the information in this thread
I’ve bought some Medium Bilt Clay and I also took the plunge and bought this piece of kit Kestrel DAS6 DA Polisher 3 Meguiars Pads, Menzerna PO85RD3.02, PO85RE5 plus Bag.
I also already have some Harly Wax so I assume that will be ok to finish?
Whats your opinion on this? I’m being sent a complete kit by the suppling dealer https://www.gardx.co.uk/index.php?page=other&parent=1&pid=3
Ace, I do have 3.02 but I prefer 203S though personally speaking, nothing wrong with it I just find I get along better with 203S. They are quite alike in overall cut, although 203S I have found to finish down a little better.
85RE will be fine and should be your starting point.
Watch the meguiars pads some of them are or at least were when I last used them of breaking up quite easily.
Harly wax will be fine, as for gardX I put it in the same place as Diamondbrite or all the others just “okay” nothing like they advertise and god forbid anyone paying full price for it needs their head testing.
Don’t use C1 on glass!
G1/G5 are fantastic though.
You will be absolutely fine with C1 on anything but the windscreen, anyone who says otherwise is just saying that to support the bandwagon.
I use C1.5 regularly on side windows and rear windows and it is fine (C1.5 is of course just an off shoot of C1).
The majority of coating products ignoring (OptiCoat 2.0 as that is not suitable for glass) are all on the same basis.
The product information leaflet is just carefully worded to ensure that it does not say glass.
It does say: vitreous surfaces however such as glass…I would not recommend it for windscreens though owing to the nature you are better off with another product then.