So having enjoyed a few months with my Euphonic NB I have somewhat lost my mind and bought a trashed and thrashed NA turbo conversion from the Isle of White.
Turbo conversion was most definitely ‘homebrew’ but seems to be pretty stable, running relatively low boost, roughly 10psi I think and comes with a dyno printout showing 203bhp. Only issue is the map, definitely needs to be sorted as the cold start needs half throttle for 30 seconds then gentle reduction onto idle (which seems low at about 600rpm) or the engine just stalls.
Basically all the trim needs changing including the soft top which is wrecked, the steering wheel is horrid, all the remaining OEM hoses are crumbling and despite the seller stating over the phone ‘trust me, I’m a welder and this car is completely rust free’ a cursory inspection at the Southhampton ferry port where I first saw the car revealed that not to be the case. At least one sill needs to be done plus some other spots and finally a respray.
The only mod I will be doing because I want to as opposed to because it needs doing is to change the exhaust as the noise when off boost is actually fairly uninspiring. Will probably go for a Malian.
So laughably I am stumbling at the first hurdle. I want to adjust the steering rack attachment and change the steering wheel. I literally cannot get this wheel off!
I’ve got the centre nut off as you can see but the wheel is not budging.
Note: I know I can undo all the Allen key bolts to get just the wheel off but I want the wheel and rack attachment off so I can straighten the attachment, it is about 5-10 degrees off straight at the moment.
I’m pulling on the wheel so hard I’m worried about breaking the wheel or somehow damaging the steering rack it’s self. This requires a G&T and some watching of YouTube videos unless someone on here can make a suggestion?
If it’s not been off for a long time itl be stiff, leave the bolt on but leave it loose so you don’t go flying when it eventually does come free, keep houfing at it, if it’s a decent wheel it won’t bend
It’s an OMP and looking at the condition of the suede it looks to be at least 15 years old. It must be on incredibly tightly as surely each new owner would have tried to correct the alignment. Will have another go at it today and if not I’ll invest in a steering wheel puller.
Yes but I haven’t bought my new wheel yet so I’m trying not to damage the existing if possible.
Has anyone else had the issue that with a racing wheel that is a bit smaller it completely covers the top and outside edges of the gauges? That is one of the biggest reasons I want to change the wheel for one a bit larger.
Got to love a red mk1 there’s something about them that stirs a petrolhead’s soul…
Yes to the smaller steering wheels obscuring the dials, a nice replacement that isn’t quite as big as the original is a Momo Prototipo. You might need to unscrew the wheel off the hub just to be able to use a puller.
At 13.8” that is only about .8” larger than the wheel I have, I’m not sure that will be enough…. Maybe I could buy a really cheap wheel that size and see if it works?
You won’t damage it, just keep houfing it, it will eventually go, try some penetrative fluid on it but mind keep the bolt on it but loose when pulling you won’t damage the wheel unless you accidentally yeet it into the next local county when it does come free, I’ll be going for a momo team 300 as I had one on my 182 and I absolutely loved it, nice and small, covering the guages isn’t a huge deal for me
Good suggestion by @Benji93 “leave the bolt on but leave it loose so you don’t go flying when it eventually does come free” I remember NOT doing this and it was painful! A whack with something heavy but soft (like a hide/rubber mallet) might be an option just to break it loose. Good luck! Peter
I learned this from ripping the airbag and cruise control plugs off my 182 because I took the bolt all the way out and the wheel required serious force to remove
Put the nut back on so the top of it is just flush with the end of the thread (to protect the thread), and it will allow the wheel to lift only a little bit when the seal is cracked (to protect yourself).
Find a big club hammer and a short hardwood drift (eg an old cut-down hammer handle), and some strong packing to brace your feet against.
Brace your knees up against the back of the wheel to take out all the free play in the linkage and apply enough leg force from your feet to begin flexing the wheel spokes (legs are so much stronger than arms!)
Now GENTLY tap the end of the threaded centre with the club hammer via the drift. (As the old saying goes, “Don’t hit harder, merely select a bigger hammer.”)
DO NOT hit the centre hard or directly with the club because that might a) damage the thread, b) damage the impact absorbing lattice that protects you in a crash.
there’s something about them that stirs a petrolhead’s soul…
you won’t damage the wheel unless you accidentally yeet it into the next local county when it does come free, I’ll be going for a momo team 300 as I had one on my 182 and I absolutely loved it, nice and small, covering the guages isn’t a huge deal for me