If the cone is b—d, but not grating because the coil is still centred, then there is nothing lost by trying a repair. Just be patient and careful.
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I’ve kept my old Maxims going all these years by using diluted PVA woodworking glue where fibres in the moulded paper cones (bass and tweeter) were beginning to separate; paint it on carefully expecting the glue to shrink slightly and pull the cone back to the right profile again.
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I repaired a friend’s Kefs (with the plastic cone) with silicone sealant, again minimum necessary and again applied with an artist’s paint brush. We thought about pvc upholstery glue but a test just peeled off the plastic.
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At work we had some original RCA 18" 50W cinema drive units for the big 1930’s Olsen bass horn (ten feet wide, by six feet deep, four feet high, folded back on itself a few times eventually ending in a twin aperture) for a dubbing theatre. A pair is stacked one above the other in the back-box, and the lower one had been damaged by mice, with several holes chewed for access to the back box. That one I patched with thin card built up to the same thickness and more PVA. I then had a look at the electro-acoustic equations for the system and realised that the cone resonances were a bit too high (they went for efficiency over fidelity), so I worked out how much more mass to give them and coated both with some rather nice thin under-seal to lower their resonance until it was correct. That speaker could then effortlessly rattle the soundproof triple glazing on the control room windows fifty feet away with only about 50W of twin KT88 valve amp (We tried and rejected a Quad 50D which clipped too easily and didn’t sound right).