- My model of MX-5 is: NC1
- I’m based near: Cambridge
- I’m looking for technical help or recommendations on: electric window
Hi all. The passenger side window on my niseko won’t lower. If I use the switch to raise it (bear in mind it’s up to the top now) I can hear a noise. At this point I have to exclude a fuse issue, and battery is 1 year old. The rest of the electrics are fine (other than the actuators - although these have worked intermittently for ages and it seems unrelated). Is it possible that the window switch failed only one way? Anything else to check before I splash for a new switch? Thanks
The switches do give problems. It might be repairable if you fancy having a try. This video will show you how although you can remove the switch without removing the console. Just remove the handbrake gaiter then you can get to 3 of the clips with your fingers, you will need to use a trim tool or flat screwdriver to get to the last one.
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Window regulator inside the door card maybe corroding ?
[Had to replace mine on my 2005 NB 2.5 drivers door a few years back]
Thank you. I’ll see if I have time this weekend to check this.
Hi again everyone. Managed to remove the switch box. The board inside looks different from the one shown in the video up in the thread. I’ve attached a picture here: that’s what it looks to me. Unsure if it’s a non-OEM board which was replaced from the previous owner, however I can’t see any damaged contact (unless you can tell me orherwise?). The cracked one in the video was the DPU on the board.
What else can I try before I buy a new switch box?
Can’t really tell from your photo, I loose definition when I try to zoom in. If you buy a replacement switch pack remember to get the same part number because there are more than one type and they are not interchangeable.
If you have a soldering iron try re soldering all those joints before you buy a replacement.
There is a photo in this link and you can clearly see a crack on one soldered joint.
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Thank you. Tried to take better pictures. I can’t see any cracks on DPU (or any joint) however the soldering does not cover the entirety of the joints.
Never soldered anything so I’m willing to invest in a soldering iron and giving it a go however I wondering if adding some soldering where the golden bit is exposed would be too much? Is there such a thing as too much soldering?
As near as I can judge from the photos, there isn’t a crack on any of those joints. (I think the joints were probable soldered by a machine.) still worth resoldering them though. Might be worth asking family and friends who have experience and a soldering iron to help here. ( have you got a local radio repair shop?)
If you are happy with the soldered joints it is worth removing the door card and checking the window mechanism and wiring connections within the door. This is a fiddly task but the fault may be mechanical rather than electrical.
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Thank you so much. I have a friend who’s willing to help and experienced with these jobs. I think I’ll search around the net to see if any of those joints are only part of the driver’s side circuit and do not take part in the passenger’s side action, so I’ll esclude those and maybe resolder all the rest. Hopefully that’ll solve the issue otherwise I’ll check inside the door (as I also need to replace the door lock actuator, and I can do both jobs together).
I’ll keep everyone posted with an update.
