According to the parts manual - there is no split pin in the lower ball joint.
The only split pins are in the upper wishbone ball joint and the track rod end ball joint.
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Ah, I remember split pins somewhere. Anyhow, I will be under the car tomorrow and try to see what they were referring to.
I only checked because I have just screwed mine back together and I couldn’t remember a split pin in the lower ball joint.
To answer your other question
NO - a locknut is not accepted as an alternative to a split pin if the car was designed to use a split pin.
Not sure if lockwire through the nut would be accepted.
Bush whacker 
That title has to be earned!
Thanks Steve it was worth it because the car feels great!
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Thanks, please do share about what you’re doing on your car when you start work.
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The split pins are the usual fare and so rust. You would think decent stainless locking wire would be a good alternative…. I noted mine today whilst under the car and replacement came to mind.
You can get A2 stainless steel split pins
You can even get A4 Marine grade stainless steel split pins
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Just the job!
I have a bag of assorted split pins and used ones that fitted most snuggly in the holes in the spindles, but they’re quite long and when I bent them back they go beyond the other side of the nut and look a bit weird.
I might trim down a few new pins with a Dremel and fit them for a neater job.
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That’s 10 posts on split pins. Sorry @bainbridge, I almost high jacked your thread.
My key point was that H@lf0rds wanted to deal with the problem by replacing the upper wishbones*. In fact, the rusted split pin remains only stayed in one side, and could be drilled out. The other side just required a split pin to be fitted. I took it back for re-test (FoC), and passed without comment.
So beware of MoT “mistakes”.
Back to split pins, I am not sure what these do. The nut is not castellated so the nut can release some distance before the pin would stop anything, and the ball joint taper could release, so it does depend only on correct torquing.
*I was originally told lower arms over the phone.
On the race cars - just to pacify the scrutineers - we used to put washers over the nut to fill the gap between the top of the nut and the split pin.
Not castellated nuts?
Problem with Castellated nuts and taper lock fittings is lining up the slots within the correct torque range.
And sometimes the nut would need to be very thick to reach the split pin hole.
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@stevegilkes Yes I did chuckle when I read that Halfords kindly offered to charge £750 for unnecessary parts and labour for something that would cost literally pence to fix
Glad to hear the MOT passed.
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Update
The mx5 had its alignment yesterday. I’d done about 250 miles since fitting the new struts and poly bushes, so everything should have bedded in nicely by now.
I was interested to see how my ‘in the middle’ DIY alignment stacked up against manufacturer spec.
When he got the car up on the ramp with the wheel reflector things fitted and started the computer, an alert box popped up saying: ‘A large adjustment is required’
I think it was toe adjustment which was way out. I hadn’t touched the tie rod ends.
Anyway thanks to the new castor bolts and the reused bolts being recently fitted, he had a full range of alignment and he set up the car for fast road/light track use.
Toe is neutral
Camber is at max negative
I don’t know what he had in mind with the castor.
Here are the numbers:
The car feels good. When turning in, the suspension seems to load up more quickly since the alignment and it feels great carving through twisting bends.
The new diff mounts have definitely sped up gear shifting. Previously there was a very slight pause before the next gear would engage, but now it just drops straight in as fast as I can operate the clutch and gear stick.
There is more vibration in the cabin when in gear. I feel it through the seat.
There is more diff whine in the cabin. When cruising at 70mph there is a quiet but distinct diff whine that was not there before. I soon got used to it and on balance a slight increase in NVH is worth the extra driveability.
Of course the entire suspension has been poly bushed, so just the diff wouldn’t be entirely to blame.
I’m really happy with the car now. I bought a set of IL Motorsport engine mounts in the summer sale which will be fitted at some point, and while NVH will go a bit higher again, this should ensure minimal stress on the gearbox and improved throttle response.
MOT next Saturday, fingers crossed for a pass!
Great to hear it all worked. After my work, I didn’t feel anything more harsh but put that down to the go-kart effect of the Meisterr suspension. I measured the spring rates with and without the poly bushes and reckon there is a c. 1kg/mm increase over the c. 5mm/kg of the springs.
The major effect of the re-alignment was fantastic. Very quick to turn and out of bends, i.e. not a lot of force on the steering wheel. On the other hand, you can’t take your attention off the steering for a second without starting to veer off.
Where did you get alignment done?
Re: MoT, did you replace the split pins in the front upper wishbones and the track rod ends? 
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Alignment was done by Lee at FCM.
Yep split pins present
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You’ll have the same set up as me. I must pop in to FCM for a checkup.
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The car passed its MOT today with no advisories, so that’s good news.
I’m really happy with how the car drives. Turn in is really quick and it rides b roads brilliantly.
The next jobs are to change the engine mounts, but this isn’t urgent.
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I disturbed my alignment when fitting lowering springs, more at the back than the front. But I’ve yet to notice other than fine handling. I do go for it around the local twisties but I’ve yet to get the wheels to squeal. I’m frightening myself without coming near to falling off the road?
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